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I'm about to clean the IAC valve on my car (slight idle roughness that new plugs and wires have not completely cured). Reading old posts, I was under the impression that you had to remove the entire valve body (horizontal bolts) and then the electrical part (vertical philips screws) making sure to mark it and replace it exactly the same. A more recent thread seems to imply that you can just remove the electrical part (held by the vertical screws) to get to the part you need to clean. Could those that have cleaned their IAC valve give their opinion on this. I would prefer not to remove the entire body (seems a little involved) if not necessary. TIA.

Always the uninformed and curious one : what's an anti lift kit?

At the base of the throttle body on the right side (passenger's side). A rubber hose about the size of one's thumb leads to it.

Did you have other symptoms? T.I.A.

My 96 also has two. But I know (have seen) that later models have the two cats in one piece. About the same setup but with no possibility of disconnecting the two.

Well, my Girl is about to have her permit reactivated and will drive my car. She tells me she's good with a clutch. Maybe I should pee on her permit.:-\

Or the Valiant...

On behalf of your future patients, may I say : "not too soon!"

I would say 15 minutes if your tools are ready : two bolts and two electrical connectors. One you just pull off and the other you unbolt. Speaking of that last connector ( the main one coming directly from the battery), disconnect the battery before touching it if you dont want your wrench to decome a welder.

And some places give a lifetime warranty.

In my case Subaru Canada required to inspect the broken spring first, to be sure the failure was corrosion related, before laying down the cash for the spring. I argued that they should also pay for the other one cause it could fail anytime and cause it would not be good practice to replace only one, but to no avail.

Good idea. My antitheft device disables the ignition but not the starter. So I could spin the engine a few seconds before actually starting anytime I wanted.

I also saw those statistics (and they seem to be scientific) and can hardly understand the logic of them. If you fill the oil filter when replacing it, starting the car aftewards produces less "oil starvation" than letting it sit overnight. But maybe the studies were made while keeping the filters empty before start up.

Just an opinion, but by your description of the symptoms I would think the radiator is the problem. It barely can keep up and the minute the engine produces extra heat, it's overwelmed. Getting the thermostat out helps the rad a little, but not enough to keep the needle at normal. I think replacing the rad (partly clogged?) will solve the problem. Dont delay cause overheating is bad for the engine block, heads, and head gaskets. Just an idea. Look at the rad fins. Is it possible that 15 years of small rocks flying into the rad has shut part of the air passages where heat is dissipated. My engine is not overheating yet, but i'm going to replace the rad soon before it acts up for that exact reason: about 1/3 of the fins (the bottom part of the rad) have been closed by small debris flying into them.

Ditto what hklaine said about the fuel pressure. I have a fuel pressure gauge and can attest that all residual pressure is gone after 2-3 hours, sometimes faster. The fuel pump, if you still want to release pressure, can be accessed thru an opening found under the carpet in the cargo area of a wagon just behind the right rear seat. I think you can disconnect the pump's connector after having removed the floor cover. No need, I think, to open the tank. I think you'll see this easily if you go there.

You have a non interference engine, so no chances of valves contacting the pistons. As for the nature of the noise, I'm afraid I cannot help you there. Others will certainly volunteers other ideas. Good luck!

Exact same thing happened to me. Subaru replaced the broken one and I bought the other one from the dealer. You could also buy it at a discount internet dealer like 1stSubaruparts for probably less.

A matter of taste I guess and of the kind of ride you want. When I replaced mine last summer, I used OEM struts bought at 1stSubaruparts.

You have to remove the strut assembly to change the mount. If one of the mounts is gone, chances are that the struts are at the end of their lives. What mileage do you have?

That's why giving the two bolts that hold the steering column some slack helps a lot.

I would'nt know how to replace the cam seals without removing the cam sprockets. That would mean the tensionner piston going full out when the belt is slackened. Compressing the tensionner would mean removing the crank pulley and center cover. What am I missing Setright?

A little like wearing a red uniform to go to war. Like the British used to do.

Same here. Rust plays havoc with the baljoint pinch bolt cause it's got three places for the salted water to seep in : at both ends and in the middle. I broke two of them (one on a Loyale and the other on my Legacy) and had to drill them through and replace with longer bolt and nut. Some people are slow learner...

Yuck! Is'nt that prejudice REARing it's hugly head ?

With a blown head gasket, the exhaust gas enter the cooling system. Even if it's a small opening. Sealant in the coolant system is of no use in such a case. Such a sealant is usefull only if it's the coolant that's seeping out.