Tech1967

Got any details? Labour rate, parts included. The timing belt itself isn't too bad but if the idlers and the tensioner need replacing then you just added almost $800 to that job. I was starting to think I might be too picky on condeming them but I had a bunch that blew idlers (taking valves, cam pulleys, 1 oil pump housing, timing covers) after having a belt only job done by general service shops.

Disconnect the signal wire to the starter. Connect remote start tool or test lead to signal wire at starter. Key off and starter cranking observe oil pressure. Do not run the starter for more than 20-30 seconds and let cool down between cranking. We're lucky the starter is easy to reach from the engine compartment. If your there and have doubts about lash adjusters replace them. You don't want to do this twice do you? Hot tank isn't a good place for them (water and degreaser ). The machine shop will tear all that stuff off to do the work anyway, ask them to clean them up and advise you on their condition.If they don't all work the same ( matched set ) that's all I'd need to make the decision.

If there's nothing for it to detect (knocking) and the code still sets just replace the sensor. Bad ones can still have good resistance and spike when you test it. Generally the problem is that they throw noise when they shouldn't and set the code.

There are two ways to regulate current and thus heat. One is controlling additional loads in the circuit, resistors. Two is a solid state chopper circuit, regulated duty cycle. The Subaru seat heater switch changes the circuits so that low runs current through the seat elements in series (higher resistance to ground) and high runs current through the seat elements in parallel (two circuits with lower resistance to ground for each).

you could take a page from the motorcycle guys and use stove polish to finish it. Easily touched up, probably a pain if you blast it though. Might work if you use grit thats already been through the blaster once or twice.

Lifetime or no maintenance parts are few, especially filters, but it's a nice selling point. There is an access panel inside the vehicle, no tank drop. I think they give me about .3-.5 to replace.

My word ain't gospel but I'm a dealer tech. I'd bet money the squeal was the bearing on your toothed idler seizing. Did one last week. Just bought another that someone didn't want to fix. Idler packs it in, belt stops dead, crank wraps up the belt before ripping the teeth off. Busted intake pulley, probably cracked exhaust pulley. Mostly the machine shop checks the head and replaces a few valves for me. Bad sign if your cam is stuck though. You have to check all the idlers and the tensioner really well anytime you have the cover and timing components off. Any noise, play or grease evident and they get replaced. Good luck, maybe it isn't too bad. $800 canadian just for the parts behind the cover though.