del

The weather cooled down, and I fixed my brothers volvo (with 233,000 miles just some of it is fixed), so it is time to lift a subaru. loosened the bolts on the cross member, took two extentions, an impact, and a six point socket. Took some measurements and tomorrow after the race in the morning (Europe Nürburgring, go Kimi) I will attempt two, two inch high by eight inch long blocks. A before photo.

I am off to portland today. del

Have to make a trip to portland or and need a taillight lense for my 85 hatch (ea81). Any info would be helpful. thanks del

I am not planning on tying the blocks together. I noticed this 4" lift does not tie them together either. When I see homemade lifts (usually 6" or more) they are tied together. Am I worrying about nothing or do I need to brace the blocks together. 2" lift. del

I too would like to see pictures, I am sorry this is taking so long, but laying on the concrete in this heat is difficult. del

The current plan is to block the cross members down the same distance as the strut caps. I have no welder here so I had weld the parts some where else. Only building a two inch, I think I can get by without tying the blocks together (no welding). Now if the weather would cool off some, upper twenties (lower 80's f) would be nice, and I could get some work done. del

I painted my strut parts. Scott I thought the rear axle was more forgiving on lifting than the front. I was going to block the front cross members down to match the lift. When I finish the front, see how much I need (want) to lift the back. del

Thank you, hopefully that looks better. del

can anyone help me with pictures? Seemed to upload ok, but does not show in post. del

I am building a two inch lift for my 1988 gl-10 wagon. Would like advise and comments as I go. Here is my strut extensions, now I need to clean them up and paint them. I am currently working on several projects, plus this week we are suppose to have 100 f (40 c) weather, so progress will be slow. del ps I tried to put a picture in this but failed, sorry.

Phizinza I have a thought. Subaru gave us no camber adjustment. Set your camber and then weld the cam/washers to the cross member, making a solid cross member once again. I know in old BMWs thats what you had to do to set the rear camber when you lowered them, if you did not weld them they self adjusted. hope this helps. cheers del

To wheel without doing body body damage and/or not getting stuck means you are not trying hard enough. del

the_postie Cool I can learn how to fix up my subaru and about other people, on the other side of the world. Got to like this place. cheers del

Yes pictures would help:clap: del

Jerry Looking good, when can I see it in person? del:clap:

Yes i plan on dropping the diff strait down. spacers in front and a plate in back kinda like scotts (sjr). the drive line I would like as true as posible, without snagging every bit of sage brush i come across. Somebody mentioned pictures, I have a digital camera, will somebody point me towards the help with pictures (for dummies) thread, and I would be happy to take pictures of the lift. cheers (I am not Australian, so hope this mean thank you) del

I was planning to move the top shock mounts down 3", and dropping the the diff 2". The plan for the rear crossmember is to leave it alone. del

Cool thread. In high school I drove my dads subaru van (early 80's vintage) that had been converted to electric. It had 17 deep cycle 6 volt batteries (dad said 68# each) for propulsion, and one 12 volt for lights ect. Range 80 miles at 35mph, top speed 75. Originally it had a 3cylinder air cooled engine. The original 4speed and clutch were retained (clutch only used for shifting). It had a gas heater (one and a half gallon fuel tank) that i wonder if it can be run on that corn alcohol (e-85 i believe)? This type of heater is used on air cooled vw's for artic conditions (for safety sake make sure it is operational before using). One thought on the power brakes is for street rods with wild cams they make a 12 volt booster that only works when the brakes are used. I hope some of this info is helpful for your car project. del ps if you use a gas heater make sure the seals have not dried out and leak (hint replace them), the result can not be good.

Would it be a problem to drop it 2" to match the rear diff. my thinking here is this the lower the drive line, the more likely it is to drag on something. del

Since the parts this crossmember is in has no engine should be easy enough to take out and use the drill press, or could a torch take it out? It appears the arm is now not dependent on this for centering (the cam is now doing this job). del

Since the parts car this crossmember is in has no engine should be easy enough to take out and use the drill press, or could a torch take it out? It appears the arm is now not dependent on this for centering (the cam is now doing this job). del

I am making a 4/3 lift for my wagon. Plan on dropping the rear dif 2". My question is how far do I drop the center bearing on the drive shaft? Does it drop the same amount as the dif, or the tranny, or somewhere in between? thanks del 1988 gl wagon 5sp d/r non turbo 4x4 ea82

thanks guys:cool: guess it is time to modify my extra crossmember and build a lift. Having a parts car comes in handy. del

The newer subaru strut assemblies have a way to adjust camber. Is there a way to just bring the struts to the car, and not the rotors and hubs? Although the part that the strut bolts to, and the bearings are in will have to come with the strut. thanks del ps I like my current 4wheel disc brake set up with six lugs and 14" wheels. Would prefer to ware out my tires evenly, not to mention it handles better with the camber in order. I am planning a 4" lift in front. 1988 GL station wagon non turbo 5sp dr

today i installed the struts. biggest pita is the sway bars and the lower bolts on the rear struts. raised the car between one and half and two inches. thanks guys, now my aunt won't bottom out leaving the drive way. del :banana: