Rooster2

I am thinking that the "Guaranteed to pass" additive product is mostly E85 with some Seafoam type additives. That plus the E85 should help you pass. Good luck......let us know your results!

I think the alphabet rating system on tires misleads people. It is just not important. I never consider the alphabet ratings, when buying new tires, or have ever had a tire sales person bring up the subject in advising what tire to buy. Realistically, I think any tire will work well on any car that is driven within posted speed limits. A Forester is not intended to be driven as a sports car, and drivers know that, and I bet you know that. The T rated tires will work just fine on your car. Trust my advise.

Imho, in a situation of driving nearly double the legal speed limit for a sustained period of time, and having the tire blow out, then having the balls to sue the shop would be viewed as a frivolous law suit, and thrown out of court. What ever happened to being responsible for your own actions and misfortunes?

The valve is the schrader valve. It is the spring loaded plunger that screws down inside both low and high ports. With a special tool, the valve unthreads and can be removed. A counter guy at a parts store will sell you the tool and replacement valves. They are cheap.

Good advise........Thanks!

From what I have heard and read, you have to drive about 100K miles to break even cost wise: hybrid extra cost vs. saving money on gas. So, I guess anything driving over 100K miles becomes a dollar savings. My concern, is how long in time, and or, in miles do the rechargeable hybrid batteries last before they wear out? Then, what is the cost for replacement battery(s)? Plenty I bet, maybe like $1,000-$2,000, maybe more. Yes, it is cool to "go green" with a hybrid, just too bad it is at the expense of the "green" from your wallet. Had a conversation with a friend last night. He says a total replacement of battery pack on a hybrid car is about $7,000-8,000. However, some hybrids have a battery pack that just an individual bad cell can be replaced, instead of the entire battery pack. This saves lots of money, but still requires "green" from your wallet

I recently changed my 02 sensor on my 99 OBW, which would be the same set up as yours. A standard 02 sensor socket with a cut out for the wire won't work. There is no room to attach the 3/8" drive handle to the end of the socket. So, I bought an 02 sensor socket from O'Reiley's Auto Parts store. It is made with an offset for attaching the drive handle. It worked great. It helped to put a length of pipe over the drive handle to get extra leverage to loosen the sensor. With heat and time, the sensor can be difficult to loosen up. A regular open end wrench can be used to tighten up the new sensor.

Nipper......... The pedal does not sink to the floor when standing on it with the car running. Yes, I do my own brake work. I have replaced calipers, rotors, and pads, and know to lube the slides well. I have used a one man bleeder system to get rid of air in the lines. I have replaced calipers before, when the car pulls to one side because the pad is dragging. It is then, I have found the brake pad worn much more so at one wheel, compared to others. Pretty easy to figure out that the caliper piston is sticking. I wish I had a heat gun sensor to see if one brake is hotter then the others after a drive. That would indicate a bad caliper causing pads to drag. I have never replaced an M/C, but figure it can't be difficult. I have always thought that having to double pump the brake pedal was the indicator that the M/C is bad. Any other thoughts??

I will follow your advise. What specifically should I be looking for? What would be the evidence that a caliper is stuck, or that the MC is failing? Thanks Nipper!!

Subarus have very reliable automatic transmissions. They are built tough, and last a long time. Subaru is even thoughtful enough to have build their auto trannies with an ATF drain plug to make changing fluid really easy. Fluid change is seldom done, but it is nice to know that it is an easy job. With decent tires the AWD is great in snow. If you anticipate heavier snow, then think about an Outback model; they are a little taller off the ground, so can handle heavier snow better without bottoming out in the deep stuff.

Just came back from a test drive to do the testing that was suggested. Brakes seem fine today, brought the car down to a dead stop repeatedly with nothing unusual. I could not detect any sponge in the pedal. The "pump the brakes" test did not improve braking. I did the PB booster test, and the pedal moved slightly to the floor as it is suppose to do. I can't figure out why the brakes felt weak for the last couple of days, and now feel just fine today. I know I am not loosing my mind. I clearly remember the brakes had diminished stopping power, and it concerned me. I can't imagine any slippery build up on the pads to cause problems, but if so, it is not there now. Guess, I will have to keep an eye on the situation to see if it returns. Thanks for all the solid advise.

Would a recall cover the cost of an m/c on a car that is 13 years old, and I am the third owner? I don't know if the m/c is original. How can I find out?

My 98 OBW that my wife drives has developed weak brakes. It stops straight, pads in the front are 2 years old, rear pads 6 months old. I bled out the old fluid about 3 years ago, filled with new DOT 3. There are no odd noises when applying the brakes. Pedal seems to go down a little low upon applying the brakes. The problem is that pushing down hard on the pedal produces weak stopping power. There is not even enough braking power to come close to locking up the brakes, or setting off the ABS. I wonder if the rear brakes are working? Should I bleed out the brakes again, or is this a MC problem?? There is no warning dash light.

I have heard that ultrasonic repellent devices don't work for more then a short period of time. Critters get use to the noise, and ignore it, and go on with their mischief.

I use the Bosch Platinum spark plugs, which you don't gap. They run great!

SOA sent me an email advertising the Impreza line for 2012, prolly others on this forum got the same email? The car looks great. It is now powered by a 2.0 litre motor. The ad says they have not increased prices for 2012. Also............my latest copy of Road & Track discusses all the new cars from all manufacturers. I read that SOA will introduce a small 2 seat sports car with the 2.0 litre motor, rear drive only. The sketch picture looked great. The article stated that the car appeared originally some time ago as a Toyota concept car, but now it is a Subaru. No name announcement for the car. Retail intro is slated for early 2012. I am thinking this car may be about the size of a Mazda Miada. Anyone know anything more about this new model?

Usually there are some good deals on used Subies on Craig's list. Go to the section called autos for sale, and look in the section titled "For sale by owner." I hope you live close enough to a larger city that a Craig's list would be convenient enough for you.

Suspension parts like bushings, tie rods, and ball joints, are inexpensive parts to replace. For not much money, you can breathe new life into your Subie, and enjoy her for many more miles.

The 2005 model has an excellent reputation. No problems that I am aware of. I read posts here all the time, and no complaints on '05s.

Glad to read that your car is quiet again. I had a similar problem on both my 98 and 99 OB Wagons. In my case, both pipes broke on both cars at the resonator. I went to my friendly neighborhood cut/bend/weld family owned muffler shop. What my shop welded in, was pretty much what you had installed. They bent a piece of pipe to fit, where as your is a flex pipe. The fix works great. Noise level without the resonator is no Lauder, then with the resonator. My guess is that the resonator pipe is a weak point in the exhaust system. Your fix should last a good long time.

Possibly bad gas?? A tank of gas that has some water in it, will cause these symptoms. Add some "dry gas," to the gas tank, maybe that will help. Can't hurt!

I am still thinking a bad head gasket. With Subaru, it will idle all day with a bad head gasket, and not over heat. Take it out on the highway, or run up hills, and the added stress allows exhaust gas to bleed into the cooling system forming a large hot bubble of air. It is this air bubble that won't allow coolant to circulate through the cooling system, so you get poor heat from the heater, and coolant over heating with engine over heating. If you replaced the thermostat with a high quality unit, then unfortunately, it is prolly your head gasket causing trouble.

Enjoy the KYBs. A great strut at a reasonable price. KYBs are what I always install.

Non OEM head gaskets are known to be trouble makers that will seal poorly to cause over heating, starting on a sporadic basis. A cheapie thermostat can cause problems too.