trikerbob

Well I'm still trying to get her to run. Trusting the shop manual while putting the cams and timeing belts on, gave me wrong info. So had to pull it down and get the timeing changed 180 degress different on one side. Just about had it running last night but saw that I'm still off by one tooth on the cam gear so I left everything until today. But for the first time, it acted like it was going to fire up this time once I get the timeing corrected. I've sure learned a lot about these little motors this past couple weeks. Pretty basic but pretty nice too. Not nearly as complicated as it first looks. Anyway, I hope to have a good report later today. If it all goes well and fires up and runs properly, I'll have a very nice set of duel port heads to sell, and a set of cams as well. Gloyale, you will have first shot at the cams Bob

The motor arived this morning and I went to work on it. Been at it all day. So far things are going very well. My reconditioned heads came back looking like new and the shop said he could find no signs of cracking or problems. Valves were ground and new seats and seals and all the normal stuff was done. I got busy and started removing the heads on the new block and everything looks to be the same as the old, so I don't think there will be any surprises. The old heads bolted up no problem. The heads from the new motor look to be brand new. I can't see any sign of them ever being reworked or painted or anything like my old heads look. If not new, they are great reconditioned heads. I decided to use my cam instead of the one that came on the motor. Just in case the cam was a high lift cam to go with the duel port fuel injected setup. I just about got it all back together today, just a few items to put on and it will be ready to bolt back into the Trike. If all goes well It should be back in place but tomorrow afternoon. My radiators and everything is all in place as I had the other motor init ready to run, so it won't take much to hook it up. I'll let you all know if it fires up like it should. Thanks you all for your assistence. Bob

Thanks Doug, I'm going to have close to $200 into the old heads getting the valve job done and the decking, plus gaskets and sealent as you mentioned. I think I'm just going to run with the reworked heads on the new motor and leave the new heads alone to sell. I was thinking they will be worth clost to $100 each as they will be like new, and could very well be brand new heads, not rebuilt. Don't know if there is a way to tell or not, but either way, they will be like new. The shop thats doing my heads does that kind of work and if they would have been able to find a set of heads to exchange for mine, it would have been $250 for a set, but they couldn't find any so they are just cleaning mine up and doing the valves and seals and decking. The motor they came off of only had 80,000 miles on it so these heads should be in good condition. The whole motor would have been good if the people had not let it sit out in the weather uncovered for a couple years. Messed up the pistons and cylinders and couldn't get enough compression out of it to get it to run. But I'm going to tear it down in the coming months and rebuild it so I'll have it as a good replacement short block for my wifes Trike. Her motor has clost to 180,000 on it now. But since we don't put more than 5 or 6,000 miles a year on them, it may last a long time yet. But it will be good to know we have a replacement on hand, or who knows, Maybe I'll rebuild it and sell it. But for now, I just hopeing my old heads inter change with this new block ok. I should know soon, the motor is due to arive sometime tomorrow. If all goes well, I hope to have it together and in my Trike by Monday. I'll keep you all posted. Bob

Well, I'm going to give the head swap idea a try first. If that doesn't work for some reason, I might look into having Scott make that intake accept a Weber carb. I would think putting the Weber 2 bbl on there with a duel intake, should work ok. I really can't see any reason why not. Might even be a good thing. A more positive fuel delivery to each cylinder. I'll give you a shot at the heads if my swap works. Bob

Ok, thanks guys. I've removed the heads from my old motor today and took them to the Machine shop to get the valves done and deck it so it will be ready when my new motor gets here. It was advertised as non turbo, so I'm assuming thats not going to be an issue. I'm going to see if I can just swap out the heads with my old ones and put it all together and see how it goes. I'll be sure and post here what developes from this mess. But from all your advice and info and from as near as I can tell from the photos of the new motor, the head swap should be all I need to do. Should know by mid week of next week if the motor gets here that quick. Won't take long to change the heads and get it back together and back in the Trike. I'll probably have a set of duel port heads for sell soon. I'll let you all know. Bob

Boy o Boy did I screw up. I should have came here to the Forum first. I didn't read the info on the motor that closly and thought it was the same long block as the standard EA82. I didn't realize the other EA82 found in most of the Subarus were single port intake. I just thought all my top stuff was going to bolt right up and away I go. Ok guys I'm going to need you help. I have a complete motor on hand but the compression is no good in it. Could I just change the heads from the old to the new? The ad states the model of vehicle this motor is for as a (Leone Alcyone) Never heard of that model car. I guess thats why I didn't think about it. They list the motor as being the right block for 1982 to 1984. Just never occurred to me that the intake on the EA82 is single port. I'm always thinking about the fact that they all used 2 bbl carbs so just thought in terms of that making it a duel intake. So what are my options? Does anyone know for sure if just switching the heads will work? Is there a manifold I can get that will except a Carb for this motor? Help me out here guys. I'm in deep doo doo. By the way, These guys did have a Turbo motor too, but this one that I bought is a non turbo, so maybe just a head change will be all I need to do. Maybe there will be a market for the new heads I'll have left over. Bob

Thanks for all your answers. It is no longer an issue. I found and purchased a brand new 0 mile remanufactured EA82 long block for $550 plus $150 shipping. So for $700 I will have a like brand new motor for my Trike. In case any of you might be interested. Vist Ebay. There is a company that has just received a large shipment of motors like this. They still have a EA82 long block turbo on auction with starting bid of $500 I believe. Its the same long block and can be used as non turbo if neded. $700 for a remanufactured motor in my opinion, is nothing short of a fantistic deal. I don't think you could by the parts and rebuild yourself, if you had all the right equipment to rebuild it, for that price. Check it out, you might find a great deal on a rebuilt motor for your poor ol Subie. Thanks Guys, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=024&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=370038067175&rd=1 Not sure if this link will work since its for the motor I bought. Bob

Hi, I need to know if the EA82 Turbo motors require a computer to operate? I have a chance to get a good used one and I'd like to put it in my Trike, but no computer or other harness would come with it as its a JDM motor and only the motor. Will this require anything special to make work in a Trike? Thanks, any help or info will be appreciated Bob

Ok guys thanks for your thoughts and ideas. Bob

The car is over 100 miles away from me and it seems the owner has no clue about how to check things. Heres the story. Car was taken to a shop for a new Radiator. Shop forgot to connect trans lines and the car was picked up and driven until the tranny crashed. Car then sits for a full year while the owner is dealing with the shop. No doubt he got paid for the car and now he just wants it gone. Logic would say, it should still start up and run as long as nothing else has been done to it while it was sitting. But it doesn't want to for whatever reason. If I bought the motor, I'd be removing all the smog stuff as well as all the fuel injection stuff and putting on a Weber carb with a carbed manafold and a dist from a carbed EA82 motor and coil. My gut feeling tells me once I have done all that, it should fire up and run just like my 85 EA82 in my wifes Trike. Just trying to hit all the bases before I commit to buy it just to feel certain I'll be getting a good motor. Thanks for your input, any one else have any ideas or commits, please share them. Bob

Hi guys, Trikerbob here with another question. I'm looking at another EA82 motor from a 93 Loyal. 153,000 miles ran good before a shop forgot to hook up transmission lines after some work was done and fried the tranny. The car has been sitting for a full year. A tow truck opperater tried without success to get the car started after sitting for a year. Owner says it ran good before the shop screwed up. Question: Would the bad tranny be sending a message to the computer that would prevent the motor from starting? I'd like to buy this motor for my Trike, but I need to be fairly sure its going to be a good motor before I do. $300 is not a lot of money, but if its no good, its a bunch. Bob

Thanks for your feedback on this. I do have the Dist and manafold from a carbed model. I just didn't know if the Dist on the loyal would need to be changed and if the one I have woyld fit ok. If it will then it looks like I can use the loyal motor ok for my project. Thanks, Bob:banana:

Ok I see I need to be more spicific. I want to use a 93 loyal motor (EA82) in a Trike adapted to a VW transmission. I've done this once before using an EA82 carbed motor. It too had an electronic dist, but I didn't need the computer to run the motor. I used an electric aftermarket fuel pump and bought a standard coil at auto parts store and stripped the manafold of all smog junk and added the Weber kit. Runs like a dream. I want to do another one but the carbed motors are becoming hard to find with decent mileage. I have a carb manafold to use and would use a Weber carb and will use an aftermarket fuel pump too just like the first one. My question is, will it work the same as the 85 carbed motor I have in my other Trike. I will not be using the computer or any other part of the wire harness. I will strip it down to a bare manafold and run it like the other one. Will it Work? Bob

Can anyone tell me on the 92& 93 Loyal's, do they still run a Distributer? Or are they computer controled then? Thanks, Bob:-\

Thanks guys, I'll keep all this in mind if I wind up taking this motor. In my Trikes engine access is never an issue. Lots of space all arouind it. Bob:banana:

Thanks, thats good to know. I'll have to look into what one this motor is. My gut feeling tells me the hydrolic would probably be in the later models just before they went to the EA82 motors that were all hydro. So this 85 is probably hydro lifters. Bob

Thanks, I don't have any smog issues on the Trike (yet) My EA82 is running the Weber progressive and runs great. I removed evey sigh of smog related stuff from the manafold and pluged all the holes and its doing very well for over 7000 miles so fare, plus the 135,000 it started with. The EA81 I found has 150,000 on it now. Sounds like it might be a good choice. Bob

Hey guys, Trikerbob here. As you can see by my name I'm a Triker. My wifes Trike is running an 1985 EA82 motor and is a real sweetheart. I'm getting ready to convert my new Trike over to Subie power and i've been searching for a low milage motor for it. I just recently found an 1985 ea81 from a hatchback and wanted to know what you guys think about this motor as compared to the EA82. As near as I can tell there are several differences in the two motors. But just from photos I've seen of it, I can't tell much. After reading a few post out here, I think I know a little about the motor. The hp rating seems to be about 10hp less than the EA82, thats not to big a deal. And it seems there are other differences I should know about. It looks like it doesn't have the timeing belts like my EA82 so I assume its a push rod motor. I guess this would be OHV and not OHC. What other things would some of you like to tell me about this motor. Would there be any reason to stay clear of it, or is it a good choice for a Trike project? If so, Why? Thanks, Bob:)

Hey guys, I will be giving away 2 Subaru's in the very near future. The first one is a 1990 2.2 AWD wagon. The other one is a 1992 white Legacy 4 door sedan all power air and in pretty nice condition inside and out. The wagon is kind of a beater inside and out. The deal: The wagon has a good trans, the sedan has a bad trans. Both: I will be removing the motors (complete) encluding the harness and ECU. I will also be cutting the exhaust headers off a few inches below the motor so I'll have the proper flange to build exhaust for it to work on my Trikes. Everything else will be left alone as much as possible. Not sure yet how much other stuff I might need to remove to get the motors out, but it will all go with the cars. The catch: Free..But you must take it all and as soon as I'm ready to let them go. Would prefer to have the same person take them both, but will consider seperating them. Both cars right now are complete and both were driven to my place. I am working with one person about them, but his situation has changed some and he may not want them after all. Let me know if your interested. you can also use my email. trikerbob59@yahoo.com Bob

Just thought I'd tell you what I just got through doing to my 85 1.8 non turbo motor thats in my Trike. I too thought I had blown head gaskets because I was dripping coolant out the exhause ports. About a qt per week. So I pulled the heads, pretty easy to do in my case because my motor is hanging off the back of a VW trans and has nothing in the way. Anyway, it was not gaskets. It was cracked heads. I didn't want to put a lot of money in it and the motor runs very well, so I just had the heads decked to clean them up and put them back on. Got it running and let it sit. Still leaked. This morning I added a bottle of Barrs Stop leak to the system and ran it at idle for about 20 min then drove it around for another 20 min and let it sit for 2 hours. It dripped about 4 drops. Then the wife took it out to the store and bank and parked it for another hour and so far, not a single drop has come out. This may not be the best way to go, but in my case and for the way I use this motor, its working for me. If nothing else, this might buy you some time. Bob

Yes the gasket set I have is Subaru stuff, all good quality sets. They better be good, cost me $110 for the head set and I'm pretty sure the set came with intake gaskets too. I'm going to put the motor back together in the next few days and just be careful to clean the surfaces real good where ever a gaskets goes and give this little motor another chance. It runs so well that even if it continues to leak a little, I'm going to use it. We did a 1500 mile ride up into Oregon with it a couple weeks ago, and it just runs like a top and never misses a beat. Bob

Hi General, when you say the leaks are probably from bad intake gaskets. I'm assuming you are refering to the intake manafold, is that right? I did remove the manafold when I first got the motor stripped of the smog stuff to install in the Trike. I did not replace the gaskets at that time. If that is what your refering too, that just might be the cause. I'm sure that must be what you are saying as there isn't any other place where the coolant could get into the exhaust ports. I sure hope your right. I have a complete gasket kit on hand so it probably will have those gaskets in it. Thanks, for the info, I think you are probably right. Bob

Yep I got both cracks between the valves and exhaust ports. Bob

The heads were taken to a shop and they were able to see the cracks without doing a pressure test. The motor does run very well with only 150,000 miles on it, but the reason I pulled the heads was due to leaking a fair amount of collant into the exhaust and into tail pipe. If the Trike sits for 4 or 5 days, I'll lose a point of coolant out the exhaust. I must assume that the heads also must have cracks up inside into the exhaust ports. Both sides leak. Bob

Not a problem with egr as everything related to smog is gone. I just have a line on a couple cars that I believe will be fuel injected, but are $500 or less to buy and I wasn't sure if the heads would be the same or not. Thanks, looks like they will work Bob