trikerbob

Thanks General, If I understand this correctly then, the inner one will go to the carb for vacuum advance. Is that correct. I don't think it would go to the intake manofold. But I'd like to be sure. And then just leave the outside one open and not plugged. Thanks again for your help. I received my adapter plate today so I'm getting it ready to mount. I'll be ready to fire it by sometime next week after I get my exhaust pipes made for it. Bob

Thanks, do you know what one to carb and what one to manofold? Bob

I found exhaust studs the other day at Kreagns Auto parts on one of the little round turn style type racks all the parts stores have. Wasn't looking for them, just came across them and remembered that I was missing them on one side. They are 10mm Fine thread. Bob

My 1985 EA82 has been converted to a Weber 32/36 carb and its ready now to be installed on my Trike and finish hooking things up. There are 2 wires coming off the Dist. One is yellow, one is black with white stripe. I know one must go to the coil, but I don't know what one. And I don't know what the other is for. Next there are two vacuum lines on the Dist. Can anyone tell me where each one goes. I'm sure one has to go to the carb, but I don't know what one or where the second one goes. Does either one get manifold vacuum? A little help will be appreciated. Thank you. Bob

Well this was all very interesting. You all seem to have a very convincing argument to hook it up. So I might just go ahead and do it. Either way, I don't think its that big a deal but if over the long haul it helps keep the motor in better shape, its worth it. By the way, Trikes here in Calif or at this time all states do not require Trikes to be smoged or checked. However that day is coming in the not so distant future. But for now, My Trike does not need anything smog related on it, so its all been removed and all the little vacumm holes pluged. My Trike is my daily driver in all except very bad weather. Its not a weekend thing as it is with some. I average around 7 to 10,000 miles a year on them. Thats my main reason for building this one with what I hope to be a better motor than the VW motors I have been running. I'm tired of all the constant tinkering that must be done to the VW to keep them running good. I'm expecting better fuel economy, better horsepower, and wider power band from the Subie, and above all else, not as much tinkering to keep it alive. Thanks for all your input. Bob

Well of course I'm throughly confussed now. Some say no big deal, others say big deal. I'm inclinded to go with the no big deal crowd. My reason has to do with all the motors I've used in the past that had nothing but just one little crank case breather hose on them with no valves that opened or closed and they seemed to do just fine. I've been dealing with VW motors for several years in my Trikes and they all only have one little breather hose on them and no PCV or anything else. So I guess I'll just have to try it this way for awhile and see what if anything happens. I'm inclined to believe that the PCV along with the overwhelming amount of vacumm lines and little do dads that I pulled off this motor, is total bull crap. I thank you all for your input non the less and I'll watch the motor real close and see if anything seems to be happening. If I notice anything strange going on, it will be easy enough to hook it up. But I doubt that I'll ever feel the need. Bob:burnout:

Hi guys, I'm getting my EA82 ready for my Trike and so far I've removed all the smog stuff and installed a new Weber 32/36 Carb. I just today finished all that and have been hooking up breather hoses from the valve covers to each other and into the base of the air cleaner of the carb. One thing I did that I'm not real sure was a good idea or not was that I just pluged off the PCV valve on the back of the manafold just below the carb. I've always considered that item as part of the smog stuff and was not even on early motors. Since I have basicly converted this motor back to a pretty basic carbed motor without all the smog stuff, I can't help but wonder why I would need that valve. I know the motor must breath and I know thats where the openings in the valve covers come from. Won't they be enough, or is the extra suckion of the PCV valve coming off the intake manafold needed? I would hope to get more than just a couple opinions about this. I'd like some solid knowledgeable information about if this is ok or if its a bad idea. Thanks, Bob

Thanks Guys, I never can remember what it is. I know its overhead something. LOL I think its OHC. I know its an EA82 and has a timing belt. Anyway, I've been told my HP was anywhere from a low of 66HP to over 90HP. I wish it was the 90 number I could count on. But I'm inclinded to go with the numbers from you guys and I'll accept that its probanly around 70HP and if its closer to 82, then YEEEHAA!! My motor is being put in a Trike attached to a VW full automatic transmission using a Kennedy Engineering adapter plate. Since I don't have the computer nor did I want it, I removed the stock carb along with a huge pile of smog stuff. Unbelievable how much stuff they could find places to stick that stuff. Enough hoses and vacumme lines if laied end to end would circle the globe at least once. And these motors were out in the early days of smog stuff.No wonder oil prices are through the roof. Must take 24 barrles of crude just for one motor. Got the carb mounted and got a call from Kennedy today that my adapter plate should be shipped tomorrow. All I have left to do is mount the motor and hook up plumbing and get the exhaust pipes made. I think I'll just take it to a muffler shop near by that does both mufflers and radiators and just have them run my radiators hoses and build my pipes at the same time. I'm running 2 Goldwing radiators directly in the air but they are positioned one on each side of my rear passenger seat so there will be a need for a few feet of hose to each one. I'm not sure if they should be hooked in is series or if I should split the water to and from each one with a T fitting. Anyone care to comment about that, just jump in. Thanks, Bob:-\

Hey guys, I know some of you will know this off the top of your head. I have heard and been told a couple different figures about this. I'd like to know for sure. What is my 1985 EA82 OVC motor horse power rated at? I have removed the smog junk and will be running the Weber 32/36 carb. Thanks, Bob:brow:

Subaru newbie here. Building a Trike with an EA82 motor. My motor is missing the coil. I have heard reference to coil & igniter. Is this the same thing? I don't know what the igniter is and I can't find any reference to one in the manual. I need to purchase whatever it is that I need. Can one of you tell me what I should look for. By the way, I'll be removing the stock carb and probably run a Weber 32/36. I have a pointless dist on it as well. Thanks, Bob

Thanks Stumpy for checking out my site. Building the Leading Link front end is very easy. Just need to take care that every thing matches on both sides and welded up right. But in the end, the handling is so much better. You simply can't setup a stock front end to work very well on a Trike. Most guys want a little rake to the front end to look better, and the more rake you get the better it will handle, but the big downside to raking a stock front end, is that you wind up with very hard steering. In most cases you will have stiffness in steering with trail over 3 inches and most stock front ends start with around 4 inches. Of course you can get decent performance using the stock front end as long as you set it up at the rake angle it had on the bike it came from. What you wind up with then is a tendency to skip or scrub the front wheel any time you try to hit the curves a little fast. That can be a bit unnerving as well as wear out your tire faster. The key to a Trike that handles well is the Trail figure. The closer you can get that number to 1 to 1 1/2 inch the better. The rake angle can be as radical as you want it to be as long as the trail is within that range. 45 to 55 degree rake angle seems to work well for good looks and good handling. But even greater rake will get better handling but as you get into the more radical rakes, it becomes more difficult to get it all to come together. The height of the head must be dropped lower with radical rakes or you wind up with a very long front end to get the right trail. So it can be a bit tricky to get it all to come together, but once it does, its a much better Trike. Lots of luck to you. If I can ever be of any help, just let me know. Bob

Good Morning, Ok I'm getting closer to finding out just what I have here. So I guess there are no push rods since there is a timeing belt thats pretty obvious. You can tell I don't know much about the mechaninal aspects of motors. You could have told me it has push rods too and I wouldn't have known the difference. Anyway, I've looked real close at the carb and I can't see any numbers on it anywhere. There is so much crap on it, its hard to see anything. But I took some close up photos of the carb and will post them in the photo section. Maybe you can tell me by looking at that if I can use this carb or if I'll have to get something else. If I do need a different carb, it would be good if any of you can tell me exactually what carb I should be looking for. Thanks for all your help. Bob:headbang:

Hi Stumpy, I've seen you an the BTW forum. You can check out my progress on my web site. I've posted several pics of my Subie project there. Right now I'm just waiting for the Adapter plate to be shipped. The Trike is finished otherwise. I started wiring yesterday and once I can mount the motor, I can get my radiators plumbed and work on getting the motor running. There is much I don't understand about this motor with all the little vacuum lines and crap all over it. But I'll either figure it out or pay someone to get it running for me. One way or the other, it'll be on the road by Spring or it'll be at the bottom of the lake...Well no not that, if worse came to worse, I'd just put a VW motor on it and ride. I preferred to mount this to a VW Auto rather than use the Subie Auto. I don't like mid engine Trikes at all. I had one once and it was the biggest pain in the butt to work on, plus I don't like sitting over the motor. I like the motor behind me where all the heat is in back and I really like the ease of getting to it for regular maintenance. Have you ever considered building a Leading Link front end rather than using a Motorcycle front end. You will get much better handling from a LL type. I really hate to see so many guys still using stock Motorcycle front ends on their projects. Its so easy to build a Leading Link and you can use just about everything off the stock front end to hold down the cost. But for the extra spent is well worth the better performance. But its your project. Thanks for your reply. My web Site: http://www.angelfire.com/rebellion/trikerbob60/index.html Bob

Like I stated, I'm not 100% sure about some of the info I'm giving here, but I seem to recal that this motor is a pushrod type OHV model. But I know for sure its an EA82 I just went and checked the motor to be sure. The Dist just has 2 wires coming off it if that helps any. I'll post a couple photos of the motor in the photo section and maybe one of you guys will be able to tell me for sure what I have here. The serial number if this helps is (044605). I'd like to know more certain about if this will work as it is ok. I do still need to get the coil for it as that piece was missing when I bought the motor. So I guess I need coil and ignitor? Thanks. Bob

Well The year, I'm not 100% sure about that. Its been about 4 years since I bought this motor and I was thinking the guy at the Jyard told me early 80's, but I could be wrong. But no douubt its a E82 Carburated. You guys can look at a few pics I posted in the photo section. I have no need for the smog stuff as a Trike does not require smog, but I'm sure I'll need to hook up some of it just to make things work, but I don't want anything there there isn't needed to run the motor. Thanks for your reply. I guess I'll probably need to pick up a different Dist. Bob:confused:

Hi guys new guy here with a question about a motor I have. I'm building a Trike and I'm going to adapt this motor to a VW full automatic trans and I have a question regarding the Distributer. It a pointless dist. the motor is carburate. One person I have talked with thinks I'll need something called an (ecm module). I'm not much of a mechcanic and have no clue what this ecm thing is or what it does. I have converted VW points over to electronic before and didn't need anything else. What can you guys tell me about thisw situation. Will I need to pick up a Dist with points or is there a way to use this one? Thanks, I await your answers. Bob:banana: