DR DLEX

duel DJG's set on EA71.re-jetted and modified

JUMP-IN Phiz,I agree duel-carb IS the way to go. Duel-carbs will have ...a quicker throttle reponse ...a higher torque range ...a higher rpm horsepower ...better fuel mileage Sadly, duel-carb set-ups are very hard to find in the States.I've been running a gen 1 EA71 w/duel-carbs for awhile,and I'LL NEVER GO BACK. P.S. always accepting donations of those manifolds:lol:

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wait on any screw adjutments until the intake is assembled.loosen the throttle screws all the way(plates CLOSED) when you set these up do it on an assembled engine(bench core).this way you can set the throttle rod in position .first set the drivers side carb(there swapped in the pics),adjust linkage w/ screw-rod(throttle plates CLOSED),then pass side, adjust linkage rod so they both have the same open time for both primaries and secondaries.this will save countless hours of tinker-tuning.also,if possible tune these on a running engine,not a "new" rebuild.these older hitachi's are seeing their years and when you have 2 one will hide problems of the other...i.e..clogged slow jet,dead power valve,acc pump. been tinkering with my duel hat.-1600 for years just sharing braincells......have fun

have you tried the carb w/out the seperater plate.carbs love vacuum~more vacuum=happy carb.seperating the intake into two halves will run good 2000-7000rpm(good vacuum)but will have hard time at 800-1000rpm(or 400-500rpm each side)subi engines fire one side at a time 1-3then 2-4.there is a spot in the valve timing that both intake valves are closed at the same time on each side,thus stopping intake vacuum for that respective side.most "car" carbs cannot funtion w/out constant vacuum,unlike motocycle or lawnmower carbs.one thing to try is to lift the carb off the intake with a 2-3 inch spacer plate .this may even the "air pull" at the base of the throttle plates. just sharing braincells......have fun

you may be pulse-ing the carb,by isolating one side of the carb to one side of the engine.does your mounting plate allow intake vacuum from both sides past the throttle plates?without equization the carb won't idle right.also which side does the vac. adv. plug into,check for leaking adv on dist.(spark plugs dirty/clean same side) . just sharing braincells,have fun...

check the slow-jet.Its under the brass cap behind the acc. pump.The litte hole at the bottom is most likely clogged.Also,while the jet is out blow back through the hole to back-blow the primary circuit.I use a clear BIC pencase,the taper fits inside the hole.This 5-min fix works great for me.

I always use PENTEX 1B gasket sealer for sealing head gaskets.I seal all the stud bases and the center water jacket(dead-end at the head),place the gasket,then level the stud bases to the gasket(fill the gap in the gasket to stud holes),add head, square the head, then center the gasket.In stead of the "special tool"I use spare unassembled rocker rail posts.torque in 3 steps,then let the sealer dry for 24hrs.then re-assemble the rockers.I hope this helps you out.

you are most likely not getting power into the acc./power circut . I had the same problem when going from ext.reg --to int.reg.atlernater this is how i set mine up -- 1. the top wire on the "t" plug on the back of the alt goes to the hot wire on the alt. 2.the bottem wire goes (comes)from the fuse block at an "acc" (radio,fan)connection,to a 12V bulb(tail or side marker),then to a wire nut at the "t" wire. 3.the fuel pump connects to the wire nut connection(w/inline fuse) When you turn the key "on" the light bulb should go on(like the charge light in the dash)power from the bat.grounding through the alt.When you crank/start the engine the alt.pushes power BACK to the light bulb.The power equlizes at the bulb(and the bulb go out).The only drawback is I have to clutch-kill the rig to shut it off.When the key is turned OFF the alt. backfeeds the acc.circuts(the light comes on) maybe toggle switch(to stop the backfeed)would help.The fuel pump will only run when the alt. is turning(engine running),thus safer than hot-wiring.Also unplug the old ext reg. have fun DR DLEX

nice find ........kinda like those wheels

I just got a tach instument panel from a '79 brat.Before installing it I'd like to rig a red-line light. Has anyone tried/done this? Before I devote one whole braincell to this ; I thought I'd ask.

I've been running the duel carb set-up for a while now on my ea71. The set-up I am using as i was told(sold)is from a 1400cc block.The carbs are the OLD type(DCG-306W-5[ R & L ]).The manifold is a bit taller so I used longer bolts,but it matched up fine.They are manual choke carbs(not enough room between for auto-choke)so routing a cable is a must.I use the same throttle cable,but moved the butt-clamp to the bell housing bolt.I had to simplify vacuum lines as there is not a vacuum modulator.I had to build an air box and route the pcv hoses.As for perfomance....wow what a differance. My one-ton rust bucket accually likes hills,mud,and slush. It has a 3rd gear pull from 15 to 65+(torque through horsepower)floored.I think the points keep the top RPMs down.As for your rebuild,use your existing carb. set-up for enginebreak-in.The duels let alot of air/fuel in quickly,thus stressing every nut holding the heads on.This could make for a long walk with a tight fresh block. Also, ckeck your state smog rules,unless your '78 is age exempt. HAVE FUN

sorry to hear the woman wants a "toy"ota. camping and sleeping on the ground must be a worthy arguement... cause she won.I've been camping with my old subie for about 6 years now.I rigged up a curtian,bought an old jail matteress,dropped the seats down,cozy...comfy...and warm,march thru oct. DR DLEX

my '78 4X4 wagon had 287,000 when i handed a buddy 50$ that was 9 or 10 years ago. i'm at about 82500 going for its 4th turnover . DR DLEX