Gloyale

Yeah you could get that from any EA82, turbo or not. There may be a difference in the springs(I don't think so but maaaaybe) but the plungers are for sure the same. I won't be able to get to the ones I got for 2 weeks. Someone else has gotta have a set. Or you could try a dealer. Really it might not be too much at all. j2coe $100 comment was an offhand joke I think.

Legacies you cannot adjust ignition timing. Are you perhaps reffering to a 91 LOYALE?

Still smoking out the exhaust? Sounds like you need to replace the headgaskets. You are going to ruin that motor further by driving around with it overheated. up to the white line before red is overheated. I would never drive it above 3/4 to red.

I put a dab of rtv actually in the intake bolt hole before i put the manifold on, and another tiny dab on the bolt tip. This seals the bottom of the threads where they extend into the coolant passages in the head. Same way on big Block chevy Headgasket bolt. Also lubes the threads(even torque) and acts as a weak sort of locktite too. Stainless bolts sounds like a good idea too, but I've always just used high grade hardened bolts. And just like every other bolt hole in these engines, I run a bottoming tap through to clean up the threads before reassembly.

I don't understand this statement. ALL of the linkage is external. With the exception of the rod through the transfer case section for the Low range. Perhaps the problem is there. Look on the righ hand side of the transmission. You should see a rod about a foot long, connected at one end to a small lever near the front of the trans. On the other end it goes into and through the rear *transfer* portion of the Trans. Attached at the other side, where the rod comes through is the linkage/lever for 2wd/4wd HI/4wd LO You need to make sure the HI/LO lever is hooked up, and in the correct position. If for some reason it is unhooked, try moving the small lever near the front of trans back as far counter clockwise as you can.

Not if you jack that side of the car up a bit and support it. Then unbolt the mount and lift the engine up on that side a bit more relative to the car. it helps with access too.

You are correct, good catch. Firing order for all Horizontal 4 cyl Subarus is 1-3-2-4

If the teeth are torn off you need to replace the belt, not simply move it's positiion. I was unsure by the wording if you are doing this. Also, if the teeth sheredded, it's probably because the tensioner or idler pulley are siezed(grinding noise) This is why the belt failed after only 10k miles. I'd replace the whole set, or at minimum the seized one. If not the new belt won't last a day. No real trick to turning the drivers cam, just have to do it slowly or the valve spring tension will snap it of the mark. Make sure use the center of the 3 little lines on the crank, and you rotate the engine once between the drivers and passenger side so the cams end up with their respective marks 180 degrees, opposite (one up, one down) to each other.

Cool, I'll box it up and send it Tue/Wed. My box is cleared now

There are tons of soobs out there, Cheap. But most of the cheap ones have running problems, body issues, or WAAAY high miles(200,000 plus). 110,000 miles is not much for a 17 year old car. that's less than 7000 miles per year. Lower than average. If the dealer is willing to garauntee you're Smog Cert, and if the car is very clean, runs well, and has good tires, I'd consider it for sure. Espescially if I was 18, new to cars, and wanting something dependable. From the just over $2200 price tag, I suspect the dealer would take $1800. Many of us board members would never pay that much. But we have garages full of parts and years of experience fixing these things. We like finding ones with problem and buying them cheap. It just may not be the thing for you to try to do at 18 when all you want to do is drive, not fix stuff all the time(on a tight budget)

I'd try a soak in a penetrating oil. And if that doesn't free it up I'd just get a new caliper. These things are a PITA to rebuild. No special tool just a big pain.

The 12v going to the lamp is not switched, the ground is. So what you would need to do is run a 12v + wire to your lights. Then connect the negative side of the lights to the ground wire for the dome. You could install a switch on you''re 12v wire as a defeat. Also you could wire a switch to ground on the ground side to turn it on anytime, without the door having to be open.

Yup. It's a pressure switch. But it comes on with virtually any amount of positive pressure(1 psi), but at least you know you are getting some boost. My 86 had the same problem. Still made power, but it would kinda pull and pause, pull and pause..... Only between 3000 and 3700 rpms. It would *catch* and pull hard from 3700 on up, like a switch, every time. I think it's from the Flapper MAF, because it's very common in the early style turbos. I believe the MAF signal is ignored above a certain RPM (perhaps 3700) The Hotwire style doesn't seem to have the same problem.

I would suggest testing and/or replacing the Alternator. Make sure to fully charge, and load test the battery before running a new alternator. If not you can kill your'e new alt very quickly.

I wouldn't worry at all. Change the oil, and run her for a while and I'm sure the ticking will go away. I always run 10-40 in my Subes, even in low temps. I think they like the heavier oil to keep the pressure up.

You won't have to replace the whole rack, just that section of line. I have an extra rack and all line out in my Garage. I need to get rid of it and was going to toss it. Do you want me to pull the lines for you? Can you cover the shipping? PM, but I am moving ion 2 weeks so it will be gone soon. For the future, when removing the engine, it is alot easier to unbolt the pump from it's bracket, remove the few bolts holding the lines down, and swing it back over the engine and set it up out of the way in the spare tire area. No need to disconnect any of the lines. Same thing can be done with the AC condensor

Just because a new one is furnished, does not mena the old one needs replacing

It's very common for those HLA to get air in them while sitting out of the engine. It's not unussual for these engines to tick for a while after a rebuild. Take it on a long drive. If it persists, add about a half Quart of ATF to the oil, this helps unstick them and work bubbles through. Change the oil after about 500-100 miles or a few weeks.

I just took all my spare parts to Oregon, and now I'm in Wisconsin, or I'd just toss em in an envelope for ya. I am sure someone here could send you a couple. If no one has in 2 weeks I can send them to you.

If you get struts for a 2wd it will actually give you a bit of a lift. The 2wd struts have a higher spring perch. But any Rear strut for any 85-94 EA82 will bolt in.

You don't have to get the sticks against the very front or rear of the rim(half way up). You can just go as far back and up as you can access. It is possible and I've done it many times. I put them(the sticks) up against the 2 exhaust pipes as a way of ensuring they are level. If you imagine dividing the wheel with lines into 3rds, with one line at top of wheel. You will be measuring from the other 2 points 120 degrees away form the top. any two sticks will do, I ripped a couple planks off an old pallet and reset my alignment on the highway from OR to WI once. I had just converted my GL From non-power to power steering, and just kinda eyeballed the alignment. My toe in was so bad I had scubbed the outer edge of the tires to the cords in just 700 miles. Made the adjustment, and went the rest of the way with no trouble. New tires at the end of the trip.

Good luck. But you won't need it luck, you got a Subie.

It's not a moving part. It will look excactly like it did when it was sealed at the factory. 4 turns off a soft seat may get you close to a good mix, but again without an exhaust anylyzer it's a guess. If it ain't broke, And it's not supposed to be messed with, Iwould not mess with it. I did it once and I ended up having to take the car to a shop with an anylyzer to set it correct again before it would pass emissions. Really there is no reaso to mess with it.

No. Bleed the whole system or it is pointless. However, first heck the thickness of the rear pads to see if they are thin, this can cause a pedal that falls very far and feels spongy. If that is fine then bleed the whole system in this order 1st, Front left 2nd, rear right 3rd, front right 4th, rear left

It is just a soft rubberish plug, just pry it out. HOWEVER..........,that's not the idle adjust screw, it is the mixture screw. Not advisable to mess with it. It is tuned to match the engine and sealed at the factory(that's why the plug is there) But if you want to it is Clockwise to lean, CounterClockwise to enrichen mixture. But if you don't have an exhaust analyzer you're just guessing, adjusting the screw makes almost no noticable difference to the way it idles or revs. You'll be trial and error, seat of the pants adjusting, and could end up with terrible gas milage and/or even overheating(too lean)