Gloyale

I'm gonna say very, very loud valve noise. Either that or a cracked piston skirt(an outside possibility) Doesn't have that deep rod knock sound to me. And the fact it seemed so hard to start could be from vavles not opening all the way(collapsed lifter) Pull the heads off and give her a looking over. May even want to pull the wrist pins and pop out the pistons for inspection. Espescially if you don't find any obvious problem in the heads.

Most likely this is just the "60,000 mile EGR check light". Technically you are supposed to pull off you're EGR valve, clean or replace it, then reset the light. While cleaning out you're EGR is a good idea, if you want to just reset the light it's easy. Pull off you're fuse box cover. Now unscrew the 4 screws holding the fuse block in place. Pull it forward and down as much as you can. Behind where it was, you should see a couple of single pole connectors, 2 green and 1 blue IIRC. Dissconnect which ever ones are plugged toghether and plug it into the other unused one. This will reset the light.

Yes they will bolt right in. The height adjustment is built into the base of the seat. The only thing I ran into was that my GL-10 seats were from an 88 with automatic belts. This meant that the seat frames had bulky seatbelt anchors attached to their bases. I cut those sections off with an acetylene torch(carefully, with some fire resistant board protecting the cloth part) other than that they bolted right in.

You will need a PS pump from an XT, or at least the resevoir for it. Pumps from other EA82s are the same but have a different resevior that is too tall to fit under the hood.

Then why don't you read the codes on the ECU and then tell us the problem. It's under the steering column. Have you checked the O2 sensor?

Yeah, except now that is just a slogan. Notice the quotes around that on the new bottles and the disclaimer saying in the spirit of our motto or some crap like that before it. RR was bought by anheiser busch, and is now brewed in the giant industrial stainless tanks as all the other chemical swill passed off as Ale, in St. Louis, MO.

Well, I can only speak for the EA82s as I don;t really know the 81s so well. But For certain, unless you're 86 was 2wd or for Cali it did not have a feedback carb. What makes it a feedback systerm is that there is an ECU under the dash and an O2 sensor to monitor exhaust. Then the computer controils a series of solenoids to adjust the fuel delivery. All 49 state, 4wd, Carbed models of ea82s had conventional, mechanical carbs. Only electronics on them is the bowl vent solenoid, the anti-diesel solenoid, and the electric choke element. Non of which require a computer to control, all done with relays. Oh yeah, removing all the stuff that engineers put in and then asking "why doesn't this work right?" is like shooting yourself in the foot and wondering why it hurts.

If you're 2.2 in your 92 Legacy is the stock one, it already has dual ports. All 2.2s were dual port until 97.

Hello, Unless he has a california model 4x4, he does not have a feedback carb, nor an o2 sensor or ECU to go with. Skagital, you have probably been confused by a chiltons manual; or somnething that does not point out that most hitachis are not feedback(Only 2wd and 4wd Cali models had the ECU controlled "feedback" carb.) It may be(and probably is) a hitachi, just a mechanical one, not a feedback. The carberator itself is basically the same, but has no sensors or solenoids controlling it's operation. I would check that al vaccum lines are hooked up properly. Also if any of them are brittle at the ends they may leak. Replace them. But if you do replace the vac hoses, make sure you do it one at a time. And cut open the old tubes. A few of them have small plugs witrh tiny holes. These are to limit vaccuum to certain functions of the system. You must recover them from the old hose pop them into the new before installing.

Since the bolts are steel and the head is aluminium, it's probably the threads in the head you where feeling start to slip, not the bolts threads. Bolts from the hardware or auto poarts store will work fine. Just get higher grade metric boltrs and you'll be fine. No special heat or shaft requirements, just a hardened M8 (or M10?) bolt

I saw it again on Tyler street near 17th st. in Corvallis Whose is it? And when will it be mine?

GD, I agree that this would be a fruitless swap. But you are mistaken about a few differences. First off, Manual steering is not inly on DLs, many GL's had manual steering as well, but only in 85 and 86. I believe after 87 all EA82s for the US market had power steering. Secondly, there is no difference between the Turbo and non turbo racks, at least for bolt in purposes(ratios may be slightly different) but a non-turbo PS rack will bolt into the turbo crossmember no problem.(I've done it) No welding. Manual steering cars do not have a welded on skidplate. You can remove the rack without removing the whole crossmember All that said, I still say it would be lame to have manual steering on an RX. Espescially if you like to corner hard, the manual rack really makes for alot of bucking and jerking with hard cornering. You really wont gain any power. I would just get a new power rack. Don't get a used one unless it's from a newer Loyale. But it could leak soon too. If you are gonna do the work of Removing and installing a rack, might as well cough up $150 for a new one and never have to do it again(till 2025)

Unless it is a copper headgasket (which would have to be custom, since they are not the standard type which are graphite) Don't spray it with anything.

Who did I pass in the white RX coupe on highway 34 towards the coast? I passed you going the other way in a white 91 Leg wagon. It was in the very curvy part of the road about half way from Corvallis to Alsea. HondaSucks? Anyhow, everyone I'm back. Moved my whole family out west and I've already aquired 3 new soobs. No pics of the new '91 white Legacy or the '84 4wd "diamond edition" Black Sedan. But here is a pic of the 2wd Sedan I was given. I was told it needed a clutch. When I went to look at it I discovered it acually had a broken CV joint(outer). I replaced it with a used axle I had lying around. Free car! Feedback carbed but ran frickin smooth as butta, no leaks. I kicked it down to my sister. Heres a pic of my Dad leaving to drive it down to her in California.

EA82 fuel pumps aren't in the Fuel tank. Might be a really tricky retrofit. Get an external style pump and it should work fine.

Not for *buy it now auctions*. You sometimes see random years pop up and go for cheaper. But to get the year you need, all 6 sections, anytime you need it is worth 90 bucks. FSMs are the most valuable set of tools you can have for you're Subaru. New from Subaru these books cost more than that. If you need that excact year, buy 'em. Worth the 90 bucks. Uhhh.... nevermind. Nobody buy em. I'm gonna snag em all!!. jk

I've got three OEM Subaru Cats here lying on the garge floor under a bench. 2 front cats for EA82T(down pipe piece) and one second cat from an EA82T. Where do I go to get the Duckets for them?

Okay, Okay. I think I get what he's saying now. I didn't realize he was talking about running minus the A/C belt. Coffee is still kickin in this morn

+1 for doing the job in the car. Unless there is some other reason to pull the motor.(resealing the oil pan or the rear main seal, new clutch, extracting a broken head bolt.....)

Some EA82(early, 85 for sure, possibly till 87 or 88) have 2 seperate tappered roller bearings. But IIRC you can replce that style with the single large roller bearing. For a 92 It should just be one in there already.

Do you have the tensioner with the adjusting bolt to run the pulley up and down? or the style that has a locking bolt on an arch, and a pivot point bolt to loosen? If it's the later, you'll notice that under the pivot bolt, the tensioner arm has a hex head(17mm?) loosen the pivot bolt, then use a wrench on that shoulder to to get the pulley to really swing to it's max *up* position. in the same manner you can get alot of tension on the belt before tightening the pinch bolt in the arc. OK, if this is stuff you already know, and you're belt really is just slipping forgive me. but here goes AC compressors have a clutch that only engages the pump periodically. When disengaged, the front of the Compressor does not spin. The belt *freewheels* over the pulley. Just the potion of the pulley with the belt on it spins, and this is normal. Then when the clutch engages the you can see the whole pulley spin. Sure this isn't what you're seeing? One belt is plenty good, 99% of cars use just one belt for the AC

You don't have a tap, but you had an extra Headgasket lying around? Please don't tell me you used the Old headgasket. Seriously, any hardware store has a 7/16 tap, and any auto parts store has a 7/16 stud. Hell in a pinch I've just run a 7/16 bolt straight into the hole(slowly, carefully) What you did is like open heart surgery to remove a mole. "The force is strong in you, but much to learn you have. Patience young padawan"

I just hold the plug in the hole slighty until the oil has drained. This way it comes out slower and doesn't splash on the skid plate. But the Cardboard idea sounds good too. I may try that next time.

Just tap it directly with a 7/16 tap and put a standar stud in it. Works great. No need to drill, weld flanges, or helicoil at all. Certainly no need to remove the head! Just use oil and tap slowly, backing it out a few times to let out the chips. Plus doing it this way, if it strips again ever(unlikely), this way you leave Helicoil as an option for the future.