Gloyale

Well, the VSS gear is lubricated, so I can see it dripping a bit from around the hole. But.... it shouldn't be ATF, should be gear oil(front half of subie auto trans is the differential, seperate lube, sealed chambers) And it shouldn't keep draining from there, if it does, you're a tad overfull in the diff. Have you taken it to a dealer and asked them to extract the codes form the TCU? are you getting any blinking of the AT temp or POWER lights?

+1 Clear that up, confirm each car and engine.

This is the one shown for MPFI Turbo. Not the one listed for non-turbo but sounds like what you are describing wire wise. But even this disty has Vac advance and weights

I don''t think it was a TCU issue. He said his front and back wheels were spinning. The newer 4EATs have better TCUs. Distributed a fair amount of power right away. I think it is the older 4EATs, in XTs and GL-turbos, that had the problem with slipping a whole lot first. That is why I installed the C solenoid switch in my old GL, but didn't need it in my 93 legacy. My bet is still that givin 'er the onion built up enough force and heat to activate the rear VLSD

+1. I have never seen a cast impellar rusted to the point where it wouldn't pump water. I've seen this happen on numerous occasions with stamped impellars. I kept the worst one ever, form an 89 nissan Maxima. Nothing but a stump left inside, no circulation, but it didn't leak or rattle. Only clue it was bad was the brown water and the lack of heat in the core. I want to hang it in my shop to point to when people ask me "Can't I just put water in the radiator?"

well the wheels probably spun fast with alot of force, right away. And it does take some good fast spin to get the VLSD to heat up and grab. Plus you may have slightly "pre-heated" the VLSD in the rear with you're previous tries.

NAHHH, there must be weight in there. Otherwise you have static timing. This is not a CAS system. You may have to remove the disty, punch out the roll pin that holds the drive gear on, and slide the whole shaft up out to get ot it. What do the wiring connections for it look like? just 2 wires that bolt to the coil? or four wires in a connector, plugged into the harness?

O yeah, reading codes! the short of it There is a LED light in the front of the ECU. Pull the lower dash panel, driver side, it's bolted to the steering column. this is the light to read the codes from. To read past codes: Plug in only the 2 black connectors. turn key to on, light will flash long blips for the 10's column, and short ones for the ones. 3 long+2 short + code 32, etc.. Reading the past codes can be a good way to diagnos intermittent problems caused by poor connections. The problem may not happen during active code test, but will be stored from the "momentary" malfunction last time you hit a big bump or there was moisture. To read current codes Plug in only the green connectors. Turn key to on. Fuel pump should cycle in time with the CEL light flashing. press gaspedal all the way down, then back to half, hold for 2 sec. then start the car. Run engine over 2000 rpms for 40 sec. Drive forward and back in a straight line for just a few feet(try to get over 1 mph) Eventually the CEL will either blink continuosly(nothing wrong) or it will light up(code present) now read the code being outputed by the LED on the ECU To clear codes Plug in both sets of connectors. turn key on, press gas pedal all the way down, then back to half, hold for 2 sec. then start the car. Run engine over 2000 rpms for 40 sec. CEL will blink then go off if no codes are detected. This is useful for after repairs. Clear the codes, take her for a drive, then check for new codes if there is any trouble.

Okay, you have a Flapper MAF. After further looking in FSMs it seems I was wrong about a knock sensor, I was sure all early MPFI had them, but apperantly not. At any rate If you don't have a a knock control unit something must control the advance. You're distibutor look anything like this? Even if you're model does not have a vaccuum advance, I'm betting that it surely till has mechanical weights. These early systems have no Cam or crank angle senor, so would not be possible for the ECU to control timing. There must be a vacuum or/and mechanical advance. You would have to dissassemble the disty a bit to see the weights.

Y pipes do come up on ebay from time to time. Ussually "bosal" brand, but it includes the cat. Or a good exhaust shop can weld new pipe onto you're existing CAT. Or they could weld a new y pipe and install a new, genereic straight through cat behind that.

FSM show the seal behind the bearing. But it calls for disassembly of the pump body to replace. But it can be done.

2wd Turbos had 3at till 89 or 90. I have an 88 2wd Turbo 3at in a trailer outback.

Re-reading this, and knowing you (sorta)It really seems like you've got it. In my experience the pin wont go in very far at all if it's 180 out. But what I have had happen, is that the hole in the "new" axle is smaller than original, and smaller than the hole in the stub by just a bit too much. So the pin get's to expand a bit inside the stub, then is forced to try and shrink (or compress) into the "bottom" hole on the axle. espescially if the lip of that hole is very sharp. It basically gouges into the pin and stalls it. Punch it out, is there a semicircle gouge in the rollpin about a 1/4 inch up from the end?

87 was a split year, espescially for XTs. Does the car in question have a Flapper MAF or a Hot wire? If it's a flapper then there will be a vaccum advance on the distributor, as well as a mechanical weight advance in the base. I had trouble passing emissions because of those weight sticking. It also WILL have a knock sensor. Because ignition is controlled independant of the ECU by the Knock Control unit.

Originally they where different gaskets. IIRC, Turbo used a fully silicon coated gasket, and non turbo a more conventional graphite laminate. Old stock gasket made to the early specifications should be used in the correct application. However the newly manufactured gaskets from subaru and nearly all aftermarkets are an improved graphite laminate that replaces both. Most people on the board here say OEM or Fel-pro only. I've used other, cheaper brands that have lasted well, BUT, I re-torque mine after a hot run and cool down. Most people don't re-torque. That was really an experiment too, using the cheapo-s. If you got the money, and don't want to worry, by all means use the OEM. I would only want to install OEM or Fel-pro for a customer job I had to garauntee.

Well, I misinterpreted you're fisrt post. I thought you had the resistor in place of the o2. If you're not getting an O2 code now I wouldn't replace it. Have you tested the resistancve of hte resistors you used? maybe they blew? Anyhow code 33 is speed sensor. I'd clear the codes(hook up both green and white connectors, start engine, run for 45 seconds at over 2000 rpm, till the CEL blinks. You might have to even drive it forward then back a moment. Shut off and disconnect both connectors) Then see what you are still getting.

This is what's confusing me. The timing is SUPPOSED to be at 20 deg Btdc. Sure you're 20 After?

Firstly, you need an O2 sensor. The 33 ohm resistor is a fix for the EGR and purge solenoids, not the O2 sensor. a generic bosch single wire o2 sensor is all that's needed and they are only $20. What was the Original code? It could not be O2 OR Purge solenoid. It's one or the other. So one by one 32=o2 sensor 33= speed sensor 34= EGR solenoid 35= Purge solenoid Hook the o2 sensor back up, and then come back with the codes

Are you checking the timing with the green test connectors hooked up? Are you sure the knock sensor is hooked up?

Yes, but they don't make them anymore. And there are very few left in Subaru warehouses anywhere. Supposedly less than 20 sets as of last year sometime Here is a thread about it.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72556&highlight=news+XT6+hubs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-INJECTOR-CONNECTORS-BOSCH-LUCAS-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42604QQihZ010QQitemZ200174500082QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V These are readily available cheap. same as the injector connecotors. Or this is an even better one with boot includedhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch-Fuel-Injector-Connector-Jaguar-XJ6-4-2-69-87_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33554QQihZ020QQitemZ300073247594QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

probably more like 17 or 19 mm.

No that is the fast idle solenoid, adjusts idle speed when A/C kicks on and such. oops, I think that is actually the Knock sensor. Looks alot like the Fast idle solenoid on EA82 from that angle

As you can see, the "thermometer"(for the gauge) and the ECU temp sensor are very close to eachother. The ECU sensor is lower down on the intake, below the thermo-vacuum valve and the "thermometer"

Again, that is the sensor for the gauge. The one for the ECU definately has 2 poles, and looks identical to the pic posted by [HTI]johnson.