Gloyale

You can make you're life easier in the future by doing 2 things. First, fish out the test and read connectors(green and black) and pull them through the fuse box opening. Then they are right there and easy to access without pulling the dash panel second, knock out the little plastic recess in the very center of the lower panel. This will give you a window to view the ECU monitor light. Now, the green connectors make should make the CEL and fuel pump cycle on and off, I believe, in 2 second intervals. If it truely is more random that that, it could be a sign of a short or a relay problem. Think about the way the ECU functions at start up. When you first turn the Key "on"/eng. off. The CEL comes on and the fuel pump pressurizes the system with a short pusle. Once the car start the CEL goes off. But if the car were to stall, the CEL comes back on. SO... if the ignition relay truely is bad, then the CEL could flash for a moment, car stumbles, as the ignition relay cut's power to the ECU. Happen when you let the clutch out? Perhaps the clutch pedal linkage is rubbing against omething......like the ignition relay.

I've never seen the actual switch fail. I'll bet it's the resistor block. Does the fan work on HI speed? You probably damaged the delicate resistor coils while installing the new fan. You had to have removed the reistor block to take out the fan. What shape were the coils in?

That's what it does when you have the green connectors hooked up. It is a test of both the CEL light and the Fuel Pump. It is part of the D-check mode. Didn't I say that already? And there is no need to Unhook the battery to clear codes. Simply plug in both green and black connectors, tart the car, run engine over 2000 rpm for 40 seconds or more. the CEL will then blink signaling cleared codes(unless an active code is still setting)

Zero is definatly bad. However,as the temp rises, the resistance is lowered, From 2-3k ohms cold, to 50-100 ohms hot. Make sure you are using the lowest scale on you're meter. 2k ohms or less. But yeah, if it drops to completely zero that's bad for sure

After Christmas

Read my New gen post. Had an axle with less than a year on it shake the car like the control arm was busted, or a wheel was falling off. GD and others convinced me it was the axle, and they were right. I didn't believe so much shaking could come form the axle, but it did.

UHH..... sorry to say, but the codes you are reading for the ECU are not the ones for the TCU. Code 24 is the Bypass air control solenoid. Not the Lockup solenoid of the trans. Code 32 is an O2 ensor fault And Code 12 is a starter signal fault. 12 can be triggered by a simple tap of the key without starting. It's a "ghost code" 32 can happen in a similar manner from a bad connector, or even a tank of cheap gas. the fact that the codes aren't coming back is a sign that things are good, and you probably have some minor corrosion/connection issues. Or you have an O2 and a Bypass solenoid on the way out. TCU is a seperate box and blinks it's codes on either the POWER light or the AT TEMP light, depending on the model.

It was in fact the Axle. Once I removed it it was very easy to feel the lop in the DOJ. It was bad. Axle was less than a year old. I had hoped to get it warrantied, but there are no Advance Auto parts in Oregon. I tried at Schucks since they are a "partsamerica.com" distributor as well, but they won't do it. Had to buy one. I may be able to get my money reimbursed for the new axle if I jump through hoops with Advance Autos warranty department.

By this you mean the "rev sensor" or "fuel pump control unit"? the black box with the Mitsubishi 3 diamonds and a 6 pole plug? Bolted above the hood release bracket? Those thing can cause mucho trouble. A bit unsafe to bypass though. In a crash you're fuel pump would still be running.

The only thing I really worry about "breaking", I mean to the point stuff falls off, is ball joints and tierods. If that's all good, and wheel bearings are good, I'd feel fine driving it.

Shaking like the front wheels are trying to go different direction? I've felt DOJ vibration before. This would be by far the worst case I've ever felt if it is the DOJ. I'll post results

Yeah, I think you may be right. But then again maybe you're just becoming a better mechanic? And more knowledgeable about you're Subies.

This is excactly the type of issue I was thinking he may be having. Those crimped jujnctions are a real weak link in the electrical system. I've seen them cause problems with power windows, TCU function, and fuel injectors. I can't think of where there are junctions that would affect KNock, CTS, and Air Flow meter all together. Hmmmm....... Ah HA! Of course! Intake manifold bolt ground wire!..........maybe It junctions with about 8 little black wires all crimped toghether somewhere in the harness

I ussually pull the engine. But strictly speaking the trans is "easier" to pull. fewer bolts, no draining fluids, but I still pull the motor. I need a new transmission jack(other than my back). Get a rear main seal and a new metal(if you don't have one) seperator plate from the dealer to install while you are doing it. Have the flywheel resurfaced.

This feel like the Right wheel is going to fall off. But you guys got me abot convinced it could be DOJ.

What about turbo charging?

I haven't removed the axle. But I can tell I'm moving the whole stub when I woble it. I think. I will ee tommorow when I pull the axles. What would you think about the idea of pulling the front axles out, and going for a very short drive. I know EA hubs require the hub to have the axle bolted through it to stay together. But EJ hubs are pressed into the bearing. Could it withstand a short drive with no axle? It would be asking alot of the pressed bearing. probly not a good idea. However if it worked, I think I would still feel the vibration if it was from a strut but not if it is the DOJ

Could differential bearings be causing this. There does seem to be alot of play in those stubs.

1 is new, and one is "newish". I am going to swap axles tommorow and see if the shake follows the suspect side. Thing is, it would be the "NEW" one that was bad so it can be warrantied! Cheap chinese axle I'll bet. Customer is a good friend, and it's my old car. I don't want to spend any more on parts without some real verification of the problem.

I got mine from ZDMAK tools. an Ebay store. The don't list them now. But they are in Shingle springs California if you want to look them up. They machine tools for imports. Really cool boxer engine stand adapters, and "on car" wheel bearing presses

I am a shop and the vehicle has been in the air. Replaced the steering rack, see above.

It just feels like the wobble is at the passenger wheel. Not inboard. You can feel it in the wheel. And you can watch and feel the nose of the car wiggle left and right down the road. I think tommorow I'm gonna gonna have my buddy drive while I hang my head out the window to peep the wheels. Feels like the Passenger side. But the Axles, wheel bearings, ball joints and now even tie rods are all new. Feels excactly like a loose strut top if you've ever felt that. But the strut top seems to be fine???????

If it was the tire, it would wobble just rolling along. This only happen with throttle. It isn't the engine mount either. You can feel the wheels of the car shaking.

I'm not totally sure of how it works either. But this is a good sign that you probably DO have pump pressure. Fuji refers to the 4EATs ability to function without electronics, but doesn't describe what the parameters of this "limp" mode are. But just think, If the pump was shot, you'd have low line pressure...ie...... no torque bind, inability to shift up.

I've got a 93 legacy here with a really nasty woble in the front end. Motly the front end though it feels like it actually wobbles the whole car abit. It is most prevalant under load. I.E. acceleration, and worst between 10-30 mph then smooths out. The steering rack had a bunch of slop, I replaced it but the wobble is till there. I rulled out the center carrier bearing by using the FWD fuse, no change. It feels excactly like a worn strut top or strut. That was my firt diagnosis, before the rack even. But eximination shows no play, slop, or other oddity in the struts. Perhaps ever so slight play in the Pass. side. But I am convinced this has to be it. The ONLY other possibility, Is the trans. More so the differential. The stub shafts have alot of play in and out. And alot of Backlash too. Could a sloppy differential feel like this.