Gloyale

You've got the fuel lines revered. The output from the filter goes to the lower, forward most tube. The return line comes OUT of the regulator(the bent tube rearward)

This means that the green test connectors are hooked toghether. Now the thing is, you should see the CEL(actually says "ECS") blink in time with the Fuel pump. But it sounds like you have a blown bulb for the CEL. Best would be to replace the bulb, but actually you could read the codes without it. Since the Codes blink on the LED in the front of the ECU. Open the hood, look towards the back corner of the engine bay, drviers side, behind the strut tower. You should see 2 set of connectors. One green set and one white set. It sounds like the green ones are hooked toghether. Unhook them, adn make sure the white ones are unhooked as well. Now turn the key on(not started) and see if you have a ECS light. No? Well probably burnt out. But anyway now start it and see how it runs. If it runs weird, and you still want to read codes, then remove the lower dash cover under the steering column. There is a box bolted to the bottom of the Column. That the ECU, and if you look at the front, in the little hole, there is a light. Start teh car and watch the light. If it blinks a repeating sequecne of long and short flahes, you have a code, say 3 long, five short= code 35. If it randomly lights and then goe out, it is O2 monitoring, and there are no active codes. Similarly, you can retrive past code by plugging in the white connectors, and turning the key to on. thi will blink any past codes that were set. This is helpful for finding problem that are intermittent, or connection related. To clear all the codes, and start over, plug in both connectors, start teh car and run it for 40 secs or more, and then turn off car and unplug them both. Clear all codes, go for a few drives, then use read again to see if any codes came back. (note* codes 11,12,13 can all set from morning start where the car doesn't start right away on the first key turn. Don't be alarmed if they come back from time to time, as long a it's running right) Oh, change that bulb for you're ECS ASAP.

O.K. I got one for ya'll So you think you need a Headgasket? Consider replacing you're radiator first if it has over 200k on it. Here's the example why. 91 Legacy AWD, 2.2, Manual. New water pump, OEM Thermostat, working temp sensors. Car runs great. But pushes water out the overflow slightly. HG right? Wrong. It never overheats (or really loses any water) on level ground or going up hill, no matter how hard you flog. The water being pushed out is cold?????? And when you go down hill for any length of time, it builds a bubble in the engine, and overheats big time. When it overheats, if you crack the fill vent on the left(standing in front looking at the car) it blows out steam, hot boiled steam. But on the right, the rad cap is completely cold, the water in the overflow is cold, 90% of the radiator is stone cold. Plugged radiator. Not enough water gets to the thermostat, which is "downstream" of the radiator on an EJ. This and the low flow of the radiator causes the water to overpresurize and start boiling and steaming inside the block. On flat ground, the steam rises to the top of the radiator. But going down hill, the pump cannot force the steam to go "down" into the radiator. Al the water flows down, and the steam builds inside the block. I wonder how many people have changed headgaskets just cause they had overflow and a few overheats, when all they needed was a radiator? (note, HGs do go bad too. Always diagnos thoroughly before starting a job)

Hook a multimeter to the 2 leads of the Speed sensor (front right side of trans). Use long leads, so you can watch the multimeter in the car while driving. Set it on the AC volts scale, and drive a bit. Should show rising voltage with speed. If that checks out, the sender is good, and the Speedo "head", the actual speedometer in the dash, is bad. I'm guessing that to be the case, I saw a nissan maxima with almost excactly the same issue.

If you are splitting the case, make sure you get the block o-ring for the water passage from subaru, and a tube of Anerobic sealant. (ToyataBond works good, but any Anerobic should work, just don't use RTV, it will leak eventually)

It is SPFI so it should be a standard, part time system. In which case, it is fine to tow on a dolly. It is only the "fulltime" AWD systems that need to be on a flatbed(unless the center driveline is removed, then any soob can be towed)

If you wanted to buy it for yourself that'd be cool. But, please don't buy it to part out. That's what wrecked and rusty cars are for, not one with straight bodies and no rust. Do you know how rare that car i on the East Coast????? I have talked to the guy too(crazy writer guy) and I am planning on buying it from him in the near future for a project to restore. I can't make him hold it, he want it gone, but I am without a flatbed right now which i my biggest obstacle. And I can't tell you what to do. But it seems to me this car would be happier to be restored than parted out. (I know I know, flapper MAF Turbo, PT 4wd, still I want it)

The senor works because the car runs. worn disty bushing cause a slight misfire, not a "no run". IF this turns out to be a electrical issue, My money is on the coil . But I say if, because someone needs to verify that BOTH timing belts are intact, and properly alinged. This can be done easily by removing the outer end T-belt covers, and checking that the Cam marks are EXCACTLY 180 degrees oppoisite, and that when they are up/down the flywheel lines up on the center of the 3 marks.

Did he even bother checking for codes? I would think if the Fuel pressure was low, you'd need a pump, not a regulator. At any rate I would run from that mechanic, and find someone who ha Specific subaru GL experience. He could have actually tested the fuel pressure. So he might be right about that. Or he could be looking at specs for MPFI(IIRC 43 PSI) instead of the SPFI system you have, which only need 22 psi. Could he tell you excactly what the fuel pressure was? But why did he say you need a new disty? I am doubtful of that one. Espescially given that the car will run. Disty for these are ussually go or no go. Coils do sometimes get weak though. We here on the board are just now working on putting toghether a conclusive tet for these distys. So I doubt the Shop in Michigan tested it with any accuracy. Bottom line it just doen't sound right to have sudden problem happen that are the reult of BOTH Fuel and Ignition problems. That would be incredibly coincidental. You really need to find a better mechanic, or get ready to spend some more time here reading.

I took this to mean the meachnic showed him what was involeved in fixing the binding. Not that the mechnaic actually drove the car and experienced binding. And Torque bind still wouldn't make the car shake from braking in a straight line. Shake with the brakes applied is almost always rotor related.

+1 for Coopers. I was in a budget pinch, and bought a set of "Dayton" tire for my GL turbo. With a so called "Ride Quality Gauranty". They handled so poorly I thought I had 4 flats driving a barge. They squealed going around corners in town at 15-20 mph. People would turn to look at the guy "hot roding" around town, even though I was doing the speed limit or less. I'd driven less than 30 miles on them, when I decided to go to the Tire Store for a refund on the Daytons. I Asked them if they could order me some Coopers and pricematch the other place I found them(which was almost excactly what the daytons cost). They said no. They said they had some other brands that where more expensive that I could try. I might be more happy with them. But It would cost more. To me, this boiled down to the Gaurauntee being "If you're not happy, spend more money". Which didn't seem right. I asked to see the specifics, in writing, for their garauntee. They could not produce any, and after threatening to take that info to the BBB and the "tire store" corporate office, they refunded my money and took back there tires. I sourced some Coopers in the same size and pricerange (TrendSetter SE?) from a different store. The difference was amazing. Coopers had a stiffer sidewall, and more grip. No Squealing. Coopers FTW

+ 1 for new vac lines Just be sure to fish out the "orifice" plugs from the old line. not all the hoses have them, but I think there are at least 3 or 4 on all the older hitachi carbed stuff

The proceedure recommended for the timing is to disconnect and plug the vaccuum line to the disty.

It matters about 2 degrees. Which does equal almost nothing

Well, it' odd because the Wiring diagrams show the wire colors and position at the end of the body harness. Not the colors on the pigtail on the disty. Only the ground wire remains the same, black. But if you have the car handy for reference here's the corresponding colors on the body side G/B = 12v G/Y = reference B/W + position I do know that power is diagonal to the ground wire on the connector. There was also a thread that seemed to discover that some models of dity have the green and white wires switched, and need to be repinned for use in other models(MPFI to SPFI or ice versa) It may have been his own wiring problems though.

IIRC,,,,I'm not sure, but I think the Green is the 12v wire. Red and white are Sig and Ref? I'll check. I dropped the ball and didn;t get to the test today. I've got a Festiva that distracted me all day. Not the type of festiva you'd want distracting you though:rolleyes: BTW, does anyone know the test procedure for the pickup/ignition module inside the disty of an 89 Ford Festiva, 2bbl carb?

Wiring in a pushbutton starter for a Subaru is nothing new, could be you need to do so. But the bigger issue is the inabilty to keep running. Seems like it could be related, but then again maybe not. I'm thinkin some kind of power supply issue. If it was a disty issue, it wouldn't keep running on starter fluid.

More off topic, but.....I wasn't suggesting he run that motor, or rebuild it or anything. I was just saying that just cause it will run, doesn't rule out hifting of the liners. Unfortunatlety, just pulling the heads you can't really tell if the liner has spun. Other than checking roundness, and taper, you can't tell unless you pull the wrist pin plugs and piston.

Manual trans Subaru DO HAVE a center differential. It is a true, real differential, not any different than the rear VLSD in fuction. It has a carrier, 2 bevels, 2 spiders, and a pinion shaft. It has the Viscous unit attached to one of the bevels. Mounted inside rear of the trans. Automatics do not have a differential, they have a hydraulic pack. To the OP, Have you considered that you might need new shocks?? Or the tire is out of balance? If this where any other car, wheel hop=shock/wheel issues. Just because the Subaru has AWD, doesn't mean that it has to be a problem with he AWD. Hear hoofbeats?...think horses.......not zebras

Test you're CTS(coolant temp sensor) I'd also investigate how much fuel pressure it's making. Seems like when it dies, or anytime the CEL is on, you should get a code. Use the clear memory proceedure(both connectors, run over 2000 rpm for 40 Secs) then drive until you have an issue, and then immediately use READ mode(black connectors) this will tell you what just happened a far as the ECU knows.

I think this has become over blown. You said the shakin was there before the axle, and comes with the brakes? I'd say replace you're you're brake rotors. Start with which ever axle was not done recently. I had nasty vibration in the front from pitted and flaking( ) rotors on the back. And BTW, the outboard surfaces looked fine, it was the inboard side, against the dust plate that looked like Freddy Kruggers face.

Kinda off topic, but actually they can still run pretty damn good with the shifted liners. I picked up an abused Turbo beater, and drove it for about a year and ahalf as a delivery car. Didn't know until I tore it down 3 of the 4 cylinder walls had moved, alot! And where over .025 out of round:eek: . It had lost alot of compression by the time I tore it down though. But to the point at hand, I think sadly it may be a HG. But I would consider at least trying a new radiator, and a proper fill and vent.

I'll do it today on my GL Turbo. Still having coffee. BTW, you are the ignition and charging man. Nice project. Good for the USRM

Fuel pump relay is located in the center console, below radio. Fuel pump relay is mounted atop right side of the metal bracket. It has a brown connector. For reference, The Ignition relay is in the left of the same bracket, and has a black connector Here is what I really want to know: How excactly are you reading voltage? are you just probing both terminals of the Fuel pump connector? Try measuring for voltage on the Blue wire and a BODY ground, other than the white wire at the connector. Use a bare metal area of the car somewhere. If you still have no voltage, it i mot likely the relay, or a fusible link, or other type of short. You must test while cranking, or with the key on, green test connectors plugged in (BTW, AuxAirValv is powered on the same WIRE! you can test it and it should be the same voltage. ) If that shows good voltage, then I believe the problem to be in the the ECU or it's harness, not grounding the negative pump. I'm a little amazed actually that the negative connection to the pump motor is supplied completely through a shielded wire, direct from the ECU PIN 55 The numbers are stamped very small in the plastic. You may have to unplug them to verify # then plug back in To conclusively test. First Open trunk and plug in the green diagnostic connectors near ECU. Turn the key on, this should make the Fuel pump cycle. You can probe the back side of pin 55(white wire), with it still plugged in, and test whether continuity to Ground is present (cycling interval in time with the ECS light) If you have grounding happening there than you need to test the wire between. Pull the ECU plug, and the Fuel pump connector. Use long test leads on the white wire at pin 55 and the other end at the pump for continuity end to end. I would also test that it is not contacting it' shielding. With both ends still unplugged, there should be no continuity to ground.

As far as I know. Granted that the East coast/Metropolitan area probably had a higher demand for them. Here in the West/Rural areas Wagons seem to be more appealing and in higher demand.