Gloyale

Tap out the hole for pipe thread and install a plug from the hardware store. I've done this many times when using carbed EA82 heads on an SPFI motor. Also in the elimination of the Air Suction Valve/ Anti Backfire crap on the old carbed EA82s.

Yesterday, my 4eat decided it was done. Drives, but feels like the brakes are on. I believe it is one of the 2 sprague type oneway clutchs, or the overrunning clutch binding. That was after a day of Rpaiing My Nisan altima only to have a chain procket bolt back out, and throw the chain, bending valves on 2 cylinders.

Since you have no function on any speed, it's probably the relay. Pull off the lower dash panel from driver side. Way up behind the dash, to the left of the column, is a group of four relays. The blower relay is the one with the white connector.

Not all GL-10s were Turbo. I've seen carbed ones. Are you sure it wa a turbo, and does it say 3.7 on the diff.

None of them are ground 1 should have 12v with key on. the other two are the signal wires that operate the 2 solenoids that control opertaion of 4wd. Signal to one = solenoid to activate 4wd to the other = solenoid to disengage 4wd Use a MM or test light to find the constant 12v Then use trail and error to determine which is which for the others. If you REEEEEAAAAALLLLLY need wire colors I'll check for ya tommorow. This is for Manual trans. If this is an automatic I can't recall excactly the setup. Again I'll check up tommorow

<<<<<< sets needle on record >>>>>> Just adding a relay still relies on the failing switch. It will continue to build carbon on it's contacts, and eventually will not conduct enough amperage for a the relay, leaving you back the owner back to square one. I always wire in a pushbutton for myself. If it is for a customer, who wants to retain the full "stock" effect, I wire a relay. But install a pushbutton discreetly under dash, parallel to the ignition switch, in case of future failure, so they aren't stuck somewhere.

Dude, chaning the alternator takes 2 wrenches (8mm, and 12mm) and about 5 minutes. It is right on top, nad nothing else ha to come out to get to it. You could change it out in front of the auto part store, and return the core right there on the spot.

Uhhh...... I think this is the place:clap: Yeah' date=' you guys are great. All of ya, even when stuff isn't seen eye to eye, rarely does it turn into a personal insult battle like o many other boards. Something I had to adjust to coming from other boards(cough...nasioc, altimas.net. Cough...) I'm almost embarassd about my attitudes in some of my very early posts, til I got "mellowed" and used to the USMB. You guy are my family. I think it's great. Seriously though, help me........please help me....

Did you try piutting 12v directly to the solenoid? If it spins every time that way then the problem is in the switch. If it is still intermittent, then the contacts in the starter may need cleaned/replaced. But my money i on the switch (I actaully have yet to see a factory starter fail) Add a fused wire from a good 12v source and run a pushbutton. Set it up with a relay if you like, but the there really isn't a need. All you need is 6feet of wire, a female pade, and a pushbutton.

Delivered Pizza a a night job for 3 years in Wisconsin. I picked up an 86 turbo wagon with more rust than you can believe, and flogged the crap out of it delivering pizza 4-5 nights a week. Definately wll require some regular maintenance, but it'll do fine. BTW, towards the end of my time there, I got a 93 legacy wagon, and used it for 2 months to deliver. Within a week or two, the Automatic shoulder belt on drivers door stopped working. (I guess it didn't like 80+ open and close in a night. So use either an old gen GL/DL /Loyale, or a 95 or newer legacy with Dual Airbags, they have manual belts

Pinouts show P switch to be same pins and function a clutch switch. Back to square one. Sorry mountaingoat, I guess I should've looked into it a bit more, seems an auto ECU will still want both signals (and some even want to know when the car i in "drive")

Very good point about the LSD. As far as getting a flat with you're car. 3 options: 1. Get a full size spare 2. Run you're donut on the front and don't drive far like that. 3. Fix it on the side of the road. (I carry a plug kit and a mini compresor) Fix a flat will work too, but then that tire is junk. But it'll get you home.

Get some OB struts (you'll have to use you're original Spring and tops in the rear) And then put 27x8.50s on you're 14in rims. Or get a used set of 15s or 16 from an outback or Forester. This will cost WAAAAAYYYYYYY less than a Forester XT.

Problem is not always with the cap. Often the tangs on the filler tube itself are slightly bent "up". A small tap with a SFH (small f....... hammer) will usually bend them just enough to make the cap snug again. It's just a piece of stamped steel, not that hard to bend a tad. Spending money on new parts won't always fix everything. Sometimes you've gotta "engineer" a solution.

Cool, I've just come to look at this anytime I hear of an SPFI not starting

Absolutely +1 If nothing else, make sure you FULLY CHARGE you're battery before installing the new alternator. If you don't you may kill the new alt in very short time.

I'm not sure if the engine or just the TB has been removed. But if it has, are the fuel lines routed to the correct spot? Fuel in from filter goes to the forward most, straight tube. Fuel out goes on the curved tube out of the FP regulator.

A full electric would be awesome. For that though I would not use a heavy EA82, I'd go for a lighter vehicle. Plus, another point of this build up is to save money, not spend money. I have all the parts to do the conversion mentioned already. And I need to start saving money on gas YESTERDAY. If this goes well, I'll be saving more like 25 MPG compared to my GL Turbo w/4EAT running 27s that is my current DD. Plus I don't want to rule out using it for 100-200 mile trips around the state. So I'd need ALOT of batterys LOL

Possibly the rubber gasket in the there is hardened and shrunk. You could try replacing that, but it doesn't always help. I just bend down the tabs on the cap abit, so they grab tighter. Just had to do that for someone the other day. His was so looe it worked it' way off. I though he was just bad at remebering to put his cap back on after filling. But after 3 times in a month finding the cap on the splash gaurd, I believed him.

Did you tighten the cable or loosen it? Is the action at the very top of the pedal or at the bottom? If you have the cable tight, it will be pulling off the clutch all the time. Not good for the clutch or throw out bearing. You need to loosen the cable to the point where there is slack on it. You should be able to wiggle the clutch fork abit. And the pedal should have abit of free travel at the top. The action should be right in the middle of the pedal stroke.

Well, I think I'll solve the Bell housing issue first, and just run it carbed for a bit.

Nope At each axle, there is an open differential. On a 2wd car, you could have drastically different sizes and it would not hurt anything. But the center has a Viscous Limited slip(MT) or a Hydraulic clutch pack(Auto). Either way, the center wants the front and rears to spin at the same rate. By running the 2 sets diagonally, overall you end up with each axle turning the same, a far a the center is concerned.

90,91 Legacy = first generation. Slightly angular nose and grill 92-94 Legacy = first gen revised, identical to 91,92 with a very mild restyle on the front end. Rounded front end and side marker lights added. My personal favorites:grin: 95-99 Legacy = second generation. Still mechanically almost identical. But fully restyled. Outback model and 2.5 introduced 2000-2004 Legacy = 3rd generation. Minor mechanical changes, especially for OUtback. Full restyle. 2005+ Legacy = 4th gen. Similar in all regards to the previous cars. But almost completely different mechnically and fully restyled

The concern would be the VC in the center. I have a feeling the car won't want to go at all until the VC heats up and sends power to the rear. The front axle on the other side won't get any torque, you'll be in RWD. I would not drive like that or you will cook you're VC.

NO, the existing bottle is not enough. There are two type of cruise installed on these cars, regardless of where the buttons are. All factory type Cruise used a electric vaccuum pump and resevior. Not tied to the engine vac at all. This type the control unit is in the dash, above the glovebox. The dealer installed type uses a spherical canister that bolts to passenger strut tower. This serves as the extra resevior. It is hooked to a servo, that in turn sends proper vaccuum to the diaphrahm at the pedal. It's control unit is ussually mounted up above the hood release cable pull. Up high under the dash. Looks to have FoMoCo badging on it? This kit uses factory type switches mounted on the wheel, and one below the defrost(*main switch) But it is obviosly spliced in. My GL Turbo has the dealer add on kit. The spherical resevior was destroyed in the engine fire that the car had before I got it. I tried tying into the white vac resevior for the heater controls. It didn't work, I would slowly lose speed and the heater vents would only blow throught the dash after a while. I would say best option is to find a car with the dealer added kit. Less parts to install, and made to intsall easily. The factory installed stuff is pretty well tied into the harness, and inaccesible. Either could be done however.