Gloyale

h... Well it seems it' the 90,91 Wagon had the tappered spring at least. I verified that on 3 cars with original springs today. I have one 93 in my shop and it is untappered, so I'm guessing it change with the facaelift and the subtle rear end change in 92. I would check you're clearance on the backside of the side springs out. I bet you're touching and rubbing, which could cause the spring to bind or compress unevenly. Itdid not seem to me that there was room for the Outback springs on the 91 we lifted. We had to use the 91 tops and spring.

Cool, good to know.

I am a jealous man, and very happy for you. $500 is pennies to pay for that car here. I guess with PA's inspection laws and heavy salting, the cars are worth less sooner there. But I still wanna know what you got in trade for you're soul:lol: Look at this KBB value!! Retail:http://www.kbb.com/KBB/UsedCars/PricingReport.aspx?ManufacturerId=47&YearId=1999&VehicleClass=UsedCar&VehicleId=6012&SelectionHistory=6012%7c20949%7c97330%7c0%7c0%7c229560%7ctrue%7c229501%7ctrue&PriceType=Retail&Mileage=100000&ModelId=276&Condition=Excellent Private Party:http://www.kbb.com/KBB/UsedCars/PricingReport.aspx?VehicleId=6012&SelectionHistory=6012%7c20949%7c97330%7c0%7c0%7c229560%7ctrue%7c229501%7ctrue&ManufacturerId=47&PriceTypePath=Retail&PriceType=Private+Party&VehicleClass=UsedCar&Condition=Excellent&ModelId=276&YearId=1999&Mileage=100000 I completely agree. In this case the right place must be Pennsylvania. I would guess that car would be $7500+ if the local dealer had taken it in on trade and dropped a motor in it/detailed it. And they would sell it too.

Very true, in this case. Didn't mean to stir any dust. We all sorted something out here, and we were both correct in someway. 85,86 Turbo has same gearing as non-turbo 87+ Turbo has lower overall gears, even after the taller final drive.

99 or newer??????? Limited editions????? With Dual sunroofs, Leather, all the whistles and no major body damage or rust?????? With barely 100k on them???? Sure you see alot of 95-97 Manual trans(or auto with torque bind), with 200K miles, not to many options, dirty cloth seats, one window that doesn't work, with rust holes, and *just blew a headgasket* for cheap But I dare say you've got a deal with the devil if you're getting cars that nice for 300-700 regularly.

Shoulda got the 2wd rears.

That's why I preffer the import wheels. I don't like the really deep backspacing of the Chevy wheels either. It excacerbates the rub issue on the front fenders.

The title of you're pictures has the name in it. It's the Air Control Vacuum Valve. What does it do?? ........Crack and make you're car idle crappy. Ditch it. It will help you're idle.

80's and 90's Mazda B2200 and B2600 have 6x140 spacing. Lot' of them are 14inch which is great for options if you're not doing a lift. Or even with a lift, 14s are till great. These Mazdas were popular mini-trucks for customization. So there are ton's of aftermarket options out there as well. But the steel factory 14's are sweet, and have a good offset for our soobs. Suzuki Samurais also have 6x140, 14's.

More pics GL Turbo diff/bell on the left, Legacy on right. Legacy(ej22) diff/bell with an EA82 rear of engine bellhousing. Can you say adapter plate template???? And one more of the 2 housings. And the front clip of the donor Legacy. Tail end of the two cases. The transfer clutch bolts on here. This side appears identical. However there are a few differences on the tansfer clutch side. No pic yet. Soon.

My thoughs excactly. I think you'de end up like this more often than not. Plus wouldn't it be a drastic, possibly dangerous *bite* halfway through a turn as it hits and *locks*

I guess I'd really like omething with a flat face. Lights and hooks recesed or foldable. I like to be able to ue it as a pushbar for other vehichles. Without puncturing there rear hatch with tow hooks or buting my lights. But overall I rthink the design is very nice. 2" reciever for which mount?????

It does appear true based on 85/86 FSMs that the P/T turbo boxes are the same gearing as non-turbo. Except obviously final drive, and LO range. But the actual 1st-5th gears and reverse. However, I figured since this is SKO's thread asking about uising Fulltime Turbo trnasmissions, I might as well stay focused on that. So in that spirit, here is the same page from the 87 FSM

Yeah..... good luck with that. I have a jacket I keep at my shop. Whatever you do, don't carry the diff anywhere in a car you care about. It will smell bad for days and potentially.......forever....WAHAHHAHHAHAHAA:lol:

Front I would try to find 4wd struts Rear will actually give you a bit of lift if you ue 2wd strut on the rear(the mounting location is moved upward on the control arm of the 4wds to clear rear axle. This results in 2wds using a longer strut)

So for you're speedo gear, here is what I would expect to need to do. First the bell/diff housing needs to come off. Easy. *Note that you will need to order from Subaru a *tube seal* big long tube that seals the mainshaft from the diff. As well as the *ring seal* and front TQ seal. The diff needs to come out to access the speedo driven gear. So the caps need unscrewed. mark there excact position with a paint pen. Then count the # of turn out. Some notes on this: 1. A special tool would be nice, but I just used a punch to gently nudge the cap around. Hard hits will break off the little ears. Once It had gone a half turn, I used a big pair of channellocks, spread wide, as a sort of Spanner wrench. After the first turn, it will spin pretty easy. 2. You don't want to loose track of how many turns out. Since the caps have a large unthreaded portion that extends into the housing, you need to actually be pulling outward as you count and unscrew. Otherwise once the threaded portion releases, it can still *feel* like it's unscrewing, but you're just feeling the unthread portion spinning in the housing. Espescially since it ha an O-ring on it holding it snug. 3. After removing both caps, and the diff, it's really easy to access the snap ring for the driven speedo gear. 4. I don't know anything about replacing the drive gear on the Diff. Good luck.

You are right that it's a ,mechanical part that is broken or off track. Sometimes the screw get loose, and things fall out of there grooves. Other times something is broken and needs replaced. I suggest going to a Junkyard and taking apart a door there. Although it's hard sometimes if you can't roll the window up and down with no battery.

Yeah, I think the 2 threads should be merged. Same car, same problem still. SO, NewDriverOldride, do you still have no CEL light? That is the VERY first thing to solve. NO CEL= NO power to ECU. Does the Horn work???? Check fuse #5 This has been suggested before, please answer this before going any further.

Might be good to rule out the ignition switch itself by simply unplugging it's connector under the column. Perhaps the switch is failed to *always on* Not likely but rule it out first. Next, Does it have anaftermarket radio in it???? Often people will wire both the yellow(contant 12v) and red(ign, or accessory 12v) toghether onto the same circuit. If they did this wired to a constant source, you could hjave power backfeeding to the ignition. That would explain why it doesn't die when the key is turned off. It's gotta be something simple. If it' not the radio, it could be wires touching at the fusebox, fusible links box, or by some crazy chance, someone wired 12v to the coil:confused: . Look at any electrical items that have been installed, Radio, CB, neon dash kit.....anything were someone would have had to tap a power source, which could now be backfeeding the ignition.

Classic ignition switch issue. Search *pushbutton*

Aren't the upper portions of the balljoint excactly the same, EA82,XT6,EJ???? the cylindrical part that get's clamped into the knuckle? Couldn't you just use an EA82 arm and balljoint, and set the EJ knuckle on top of that?????? At any rate, I have not done a 5 lug swap so I'm just asking. Very nice right up. Sticky to the USRM??????

You need a bigger three jawed puller;) I also wonder why not swap to disc while you where at it??? You''re doing some serious work to maintain drums.

I think this is an exxageration. Perhaps at salvage auctions, but most of those car have more damage or "totaled" titles from an accident. C'mon....don't BS the BSers

removing the pump won't show you anything. you can examine bypass check ball by simply removing the oil filter. It is visible right there. In fact, if the valve and spring need removed, the cap for it is accesable on the underside of the pump, without removing the timing covers or the pump.

they are both bolted to the throttle body, but are not the same thing.