Gloyale

Where did this come from?

I asked myself this too. IDK. I figured the bypass valve like you said. The filters flow is resticted after a pretty short time. Doesn't take much before the bypass valve opens. This prevents the bearings from starving for oil.....but....it provides them with unfiltered oil, so it's a catch 22. This is the #1 reason to change you're oil more often. Filters clog and then you are reciculating unfilered oil. *You could probably change just the filter for every 3 or 4 oil changes. Clean, well filtered OLD oil is way better than gritty oil of any age. * not actually recommending this Change you're oil and filter regularly.

That sounds like the hard part. That bearing is pressed onto the diff carrier. But if you can get it off, seems like that would work. Gary, the "driven" gear is held on with a little spring clip. Once the stub, bearing, and "drive" gear are pulled off the diff, you should be able to get at the spring clip. Provided you have spring clip pliers with a good angle on them. At any rate that's a side-note to the point of this thread hi-jackers! JK I will be installing the matching 3.9 rear diff to my GL Turbo hopefully tonight. Update about the overall sucess or failure of the swap will be coming soon.

RTV is good for alot of stuff. But for the Oil Pump on EJ's it's not the right stuff. I have personally found chunks of RTV circulating all throughout an EJ22. Recently, the owner had replaced the oil pump and used Grey RTV. It had been ticking terribly after the pump replacement. We discovered chunks of RTV in the oil filter. The RTV had splooged into the oil passages, and then torn away and gotten into everything. We had to pull the heads, and remove all 16 HLA's to clean and reprime them. Several had tiny RTV chunks in them. We removed every oil passage plug in the block and cranked the engine to clear the passages. Without spliting the case, we really don't know if there is anything stuck in the main and rod bearings. Bottom line, RTV for the Oil pump is bad....MMKAY... Use Anearobic. RTV splooges tear easily. Anearobic hardens and is way less likely to dislodge chunks. Espescially in the oil pump where there is oil rushing through the passsgaes. I use SOA Threebond, Toyota bond, or the Permatex anearobics. Place I DO use RTV are Oil Pan gaskets, Cam Towers, Thermostat housings(EA motors) and Oil Filler tube seal.

1. DO NOT use a gimmick aftermarket coil. Save you're money, if you're coil is working, there is no reason to replace it. You won't gain anything form a new one, and you are likely to have problems with non-OEM 2. Best thing I've found for TOD is a half quart of ATF in the oil. Run it for about 2 weeks before you change the oil. You may have to do this a few times before ti goes away, but eventualy it will. If it doesn't you may need to reseal you're pump. Which it sounds like you need to reseal leaks anyhow. 3. It is against the law to remove or alter you're catalytic converter without replacing it. Brand new y-pipes are available, not terribly expensive either. Save the money from you're coil and get a new cat. or....... find someone with a y-pipe to sell you. Don't ask Junk-yards, they can't sell used Cats. or...... A good ole boy type muffler shop should be able to replace the *y* section with pipe, then put a cheap straight through, generic cat behind it.

Running 27s And I think the OP is looking for a whole car. Not doing a conversion. Not many people have blown stock engine/trans/axle setups. Perhaps you thought this was going into his 84?

I should clarify. I only recommend overfilling by 1/2 quart or so, in manual transmissions. The level inside the case is important, and if it is too high, the front stub and rear driveshaft outputs can leak or blow out the seal. They are not supposed to be submerged by the oil level. But a Manual transmission case is so long, that 1/2 quart amounts to barely any rise in the fluid level. Seems to help quite a bit with a whiny diff though so I do it regularly. Greatly overfilling any of our subaru transmissions isn't good. 2K2OB is correct, automatics can foam or have other issues when overfilled. And Manuals(*or auto diffs) when greatly overfull can tend to blow out seals. For just the front diff portion of an automatic it is OK to overfill 1/4 quart or so if you have a whiny diff.

definately not

unscrew it out of the intake, wrap it with plumbers tape, and reinstall tight, but not forced. Should do the trick. .59 cent roll of plumbers tape FTW!

It' impossible to get the very last bit of old gear oil out. Probably about 10-20 ounces of it will tay inide the trans. Go by the dipstick and don't worry too much. Hell if you want, throw the rest in. It won't hurt anything. I alway run my manuals a half quart overfull. Otherwise they are too noisy.

EJ22 is the easiest drop in. Grab a good runner form the boneyard. Or, for a bit more money and time, get an EJ25. If you go that route, have the headgaskets and other seals redone before installing it, or you may end up having to service it again soon.

Hmm. The only ball I can think of it being is the Oil pressure relief valve ball. I don'[t know how it could have gotten out of there, unless the spring behind it broke or failed or something. When it's the little one you should be able to see when you remove the oil filter. It i there to provide a path for oil to circulate if the oil filter gets too dirty. It's important to look at this *bypass* ball each time you change you're oil. If for any reason something jams it open, ALL of you're oil will recirculate without being filtered. very bad, very bad. (70's and 80's chevy V8s with Nylon coated timing gear had thi problem ALOT. Chunks of the gear would get stuck in the bypass and wedge it open.) So, take off the filter, and look for the relief vavle ball. If it isn't there, you need to reinstall it.

I would try Napa. They have an OEM quality. (same markings, seems like from the same manufacturer) for about $30 dollars. From a dealer they are $50-60. I wouldn't trust one less than $20. I can't really justify why, that just sounds so incredibley cheap to me.

You'll probably need to flush the cooling sytem a well. But for the problem running, my vote is sludge in the PCV ytem.

This is A big revalation that could be helpful alot itn the future. What type of Nissan Distributor did you scavange from??? I would love to submit that as a tip to the USRM

Test it and make sure it isn't just an adjustment issue. Particularly the idle switch portion.

RX only. XT6 was fulltime with Difflock, but only single range.

I I would advie being preparred to do a headgaket job on any older soob. I've had two EJ22 (2.2) motors in for Head Gaskets recently. Same type of exhaust pushing into the coolant jacket problem that the early 2.5 have. Which makes sense, because other than the excact bore and stroke, IT'S THE SAME MOTOR!! Granted the 2.5 seems to have this problem a bit more often, but it can happen to any of them. I say find a 96,97,98 or up that needs headgaskets right away. Have the job done, and have worry free confidence for another 8 years.

Proportionally alot more than SPFI issues. Lets See, millions of SPFI produced. Yes we see thread about it, but a samll percent of those millions. And there is ton of diagnostci info out there that makes most problem easy to solve. Webbers.......perhaps 10,000 people have converted to them(big overestimate I think) But yet we see threads about weber problems frequently too. A much higher Fuel system to Problem post ratio

I don't think so. I believe most newer manual? Outbacks are 4.44 R160s. They have the newer, *inverted* setup. 2 options. EJ(legacy/imp/forrester) inner CV joints mated to EA82 or 81 Axles(what is this going in???) Or, I think it is possible to install the external stubs into the newer diff, but I am not sure. It may require a bit of machining. I think the lowset geared r160 you can get that will bolt in to a EA with zero modification is 4.11, from manual 90-94 Legacies.

That does not sound right to me. How high an idle?? A few hundred rpm change maybe, And that can be adjuted. But if it is way off, you have something incorrect. Look at the vacuum sticker under the hood. Do any of the ine have a small marking on them reffered to a *orifice*??? If so, there is suppoed to be a small plug with a tiny hole in it inserted in that hose.

It put power to all four wheels, as long a they have traction with the road. In thi function t is dentical to the newer AWD boxe. Definately adds to better handling over the 2wd. But for true off-road or snow, you can get stuck with one wheel spinning. The difflock makes it so you have power to both axles no matter what. Now, with open diff at each axle, you can get stuck with 2 wheels spinning! LOL

Pinion and ring must be matched set. Perhaps you are confusing *pinion* with *diff carrier* The pinion is the small gear that drive the Ring gear. The Ring gear, or Crown Gear, bolts to the diff carrier. The diff carrier contains the spider and bevel gears, and the LSD unit. The common 3.7 LSD swap is to put the 3.9 ring gear onto the diff carrier/LSD unit from a 3.7 LSD. The 3.9 ring and pinion stay toghether. The 3.7 ring gear is not re-used with the 3.9 pinion, nor vice-versa. If it were, it probably wouldn't turn. If it did, it would chew itself up very quickly. You must use a whole 4.44 diff, or swap both ring and pinion onto a donor, which would be pointless as they already exit as whole diffs that would bolt in.

It is the Automatics that have seperate transmision and differential cases. They have the same short little Differential dipstick in the same spot. But the ATF dipstick and filler tube is on the drviers side, somewhat obscured from view by the heater hoses. It is a long skinny traditional tranny dipstick. Just some FYI