Gloyale

I recently did a similar swap. In this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84923 It's not quite the same situation. I ended up using the whole Legacy trans with it's matched pinion and ring. All I swapped was the GL bell/diff housing, It is relavant to this discussion, as I had to remove the Legacy front diff and reinstall it in the GL housing, then install the GL housing back to the Legacy trans. A few reason why this isn't an *easy* swap 1. The pinion shaft must be swapped with the differential. Ring gears with different #s of teeth have different pitches to them. They need a matched Pinion shaft. Just because to pinion have the same # of teeth, doesn't mean they are the same or interchangeable. 2. Adjusting the spacing for the pinion shaft, and differential is critical. Read the FSM to get the detail before attempting a swap like this 3. A new *seal tube* will need to be purchased. $44 at the dealer. Don't forget to reinstall the tiny rubber tube in on of the holes between trans case and diff housing. It's very possible to do this swap, but unless you REALLY can't find a matched trans there is no reason. If you HAVE to use a trans with a different ratio, Swapping a rear diff is alot easier

Grinding the washer is better than reinstalling a buggered one. Carefully removing the lip that is formed around the edge works pretty well. Even on *good* ones I clean them up a tad before installation. Finding a replacement in better shape is a great, but not everyone is close to J-yards full of soobs. Sometimes cleaning up the original is the way to go.

The transmission and rear end have a differenent ratio than the non turbo wagon. You would have to swap both, which would be a nice swap. Full time D/R AWD. swapping engines, most peopple would say better to swap an EJ22 than do all the rewiring and converting to MPFI/Turbo(front crossmemeber needs swapped)

I don't believe any carbed EA82s were made in 88. Are you sure it is an 88? Are you possibly mistaking the single injector throttle body for a carb? Or someone has dropped a carbed engine into it, which is possible I suppose. Headlights, windshield, the whole front end is the same Coupe vs. Wagon, but the engine are drastically different. That Turbo Coupe is likely an RX, a rare collectible car. You may want to think about keeping it, or parting out the valuable bits like trans, rear end, and rear supension/brakes

They are all the same. But IIRC there are some that are pinned differently for different applications. The white and green wires are in opposite locations from what I remember, so you may want to compare side by side before installing. someone mentioned something recently about installing a Optical pickup unit from a nissan into a loyale disty, who was that? I want to know more?

He's right. we aren't *downing* on you, we're jut telling ya the truth. You'll end up with hole in you're pistons or a melted and pitted deck that' no good. Get a timing light and set you're timing using the alignment marks.

It i also possible to remove and reinstall it with a punch. One of the notch will be *staked*, the edge bent down over it. Unstake it and use the punch to tap it around CC. If you go used, you will have to use a 4wd control arm/hub. If you only want to buy one strut you will also want to get from a 4wd. A 2wd strut will bolt in, but will actually raise the rear 2 inches, so if you want a higher rear, buy a pair of them.

No, look again. The plugs on the SOHC 2.5 are above the center line of the head quite a bit, and angle up. They are not as far towards the top, or as steeply angled as the 2.2, but are basically the in the same spot. The similarity to the DOHC 2.5 is that the plugs are *inside* valve cover, sealed by tubes. The DOHC 2.5 the plugs are dead center between the 2 camshafts, on the centerline of the head. And very much blocked by the framerails on the car

OK, I take it back. Stock outbacks do not have 11 inches of clearance. It's worth noting still they have as much as the Volvo in this discussion. I measured on a 96 OBW, unloaded, it had 9.4" inches of clearance. My friends 91 Legacy wagon with 99 OBW struts has 11.2"

I was told the flow rate for the 200sx injectors is 200, not 188. I purchased a set of 6 new for $42.00 This is what the guy told me the flow was.

He'd half to, because the car he' talking about doing this to has a 3spd. Totally different and no computer. swapping in the EJ trans would alo require plicing of the harness to make connector match. And additionally the EJ TPS outputs in a different range, so using an EJ TCU might be nessecary as well.

+ 1 million. Don't ever use that gauge for oxy again.

I don'[t know about hieght. But the camber angle is adjusted by changing the relative poition of the control arm to the trailing arm. The traqiling arm pivot and the other 3 bolt hould be loosened, and then adjuted following thi proceedure

Well it sound like you want to just swap in an EJ motor and tran. No bell or diff swapping required. What would be required is getting the TCU for the transmission and wiring it in. The old 3AT is all mechanical, where the 4EAT is electronically controlled by a brain, and needs to see signal from the TPS. o therefore can only easily be mounted to a FI engine. It would be a great idea for a swap, for anyone that already has a GL turbo or XT with a 4eat in it. Swap on a EJ bell to you're tans and woola! no adapter plate needed!!

You can get in there with a 22mm socket and a breaker bar with the fans in place. Don't need a torque wrench, you're just going tighter than what it is now.

That's a tad high. But if it is as nice as everything you say it's close to what the average price around here is. I think $5000 would be better.

Blocking the flywheel works great on automatics. The big spaces are easy to wedge a bar into. The flywheel teeth on a 5spd are harder to get a *lock* on. For 5spd, just put it in 4th gear and set the ebrake tight, the motor will spin a half turn or so and then lock against the drivetrain. 5spd, the motor and trans should come toghtether. Automatics you need to seperate, or lower the crossmember slightly, to bring them out mated.

Glad you found it. but yeah, well, that's how it is:lol: Any time you see one of those joints in a wiring diagrahm, it will likely be one of those types of connections. The one thing it doesn't show is excactly where in the harness the splice is. The big one with five wires for the Power Windows +12v is a nightmare.

Excessive toe in. First replace both balljoints. They are cheap. Inspect the tie rods, replace if needed, and have an alignment done.

My buddy got 2-1/2 in. on his 91 Legacy. Used Outback struts with the original Legacy springs. No body blocks. Car seems to like it. running 205/75/15s, it did rub when fully bottomed out. But we fixed that Just last night we were "rallying" back over some logging roads in the coast range. The bigger tires really help hang onto the rough road and smooth it out, as compared to the stock 195/70/14s with no lift.

On a hunch today I inspected my wheel bearings, and found the drives side has been the cause of the low rumble. I was so focused on the trans I overlooked the first obvious culprit for that type of noise. Additionally, The axle on that side felt weird so I swapped it, and the odd, clunk/crunch I had been hearing occasionally disappeared. I was too worried about the trans and forgot that other stuff could be wrong. So now she runs like a champ. Quiet and noise free. Except the tunnel is definately too small. The trans is still bumping the tunnel when it shifts under load. Minimal. I can deal with it for my offroader.

So, after several member threads about problems with injectors not firing, I though it time to sticky some of this info. As many of us Know, when Fuji wanted to splice 2 wires, they did it with a simple brass crimp, wrapped in tape. And, lot's of them are under the Carpet. Most noticably the PW + supply split, and the subject of this post, The MPFI fuel injection signal(neg) wires. They originate at the ECU from pins 49,50, And 51,52. Then join shortly as one wire each pair. The injectors fire in pairs, So this first connection is just a redundancy. It is also not far from the ECU in the harness, so not wet or likely to corrode. Still, if both in a pair aren't firing, this is a suspect. But by far the more likely is the crimp connections where the wires seperate again to go to there respective injectors. This connection is in the harness that runs under the RH seat, under the carpet. Even worse is that damp carpets corrode the wires in in a nice perfect ring around the brass crimp, eventually severing the wire. The end of this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67331&page=4&highlight=injector+trunk has great pictures of the wires, and how they break. As well as a good treoubleshooting lead up in the first 3 pages. I suggest it be merged with the info I summed up in my above statement, and put in the USRM

Check out the end of this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67331&page=4&highlight=injector+trunk Under you're carpet, you will find the culprit. Joost, I'm surprised you didn't post this here already? Oh and I'd like to submit it to the USRM???

The FSM in this link does not include that page in the Fuel Injection section. It ends at pg. 102. Notice the page # in my scan is page 133. There is a similar diagrahm and some other check proceedures earlier in the FSM on page 94 of section 2-7. But I am still thinking you are confused about the proceedures. You stated: ["the book says to check resistance in ohms between #1 and the rest of the injector wire pairs, with #1 being the constant variable (to make sure the wires are good)." I can't find that anywhere. You've determined that each of the positive wires(red ones) to the injectors has 12v. And the resistance of the injectors themsleves are fine. So that leaves the ground signal from the ECU. The scan I posted describes testing for ground at the ecu pins. use a test light with it's clipped wire hooked to a +12V. The touch the tip to pins carefully onto pins49,50,51,52 on the ECU. Each one should light the testlight, showing there is ground. If that works then you have isolated it to a break in the wire from the ECU to the Harness. You are basically looking for a break in the wire from end to end. The wires from 49,50 and 51,52 pair toghther after a short bit, close to the ECU connector. This creates a redundant connection to the ECU, so a break here would not affect just one injector, a complete severance would affect both, and one wire loose would be compensated by the remaining. The problem likely is at the split again before the Engine connector. My bet is that at this point, the splice is corroded and one wire has come loose. It's all there in the diagrahms Basically I think it'll boil down to tracing the White wire and the White w/Blue stripe wire back from the engine connector to where they join.

Well, it works. seem the larger Legacy tail section i a bit of a tight fit for the GL. Even with a BFH massage, it still is knocking around inside the tunnel a tad. Also, I don't think I got the Ring/pinion spacing quite right, cause it' making a rumbly dragging sound like a wheel bearing, but it's not at the wheels. It' hard to know however, because I don't know the condition of this trans. I found out from the previous owner of the donor car, it was "rallied" alot. He says they took it "jumping"(maybe that explain the 45 deg. bend in the pitch stopper:lol:), and sounded very surprised that I used the transmission from it. Like he couldn't have told me that before I gave him $100 for the car??? At any rate it 4 wheels like a MoFo now with the lower gearing. And nothing broke hammering on it up hills and over waterbreaks. So I'm running it. I consider the concept proven. Next time I'll use a newer, known good trans. And I'll be even more excacting about ring/pinion spacing.