Gloyale

He said no spark, not no fuel. Plus the injectors are not tied in pairs on EJs. But the coils are. 1+2 spark toghether, so if they are both NOT sparking, it i reasonable to assume the trouble is with the coil(ruled out by replacement) or it's signal to fire.(my guess) He needs to test both of the signal wires to the coil for continuity end to end form the coil top the ECU good article though.

Note, I did not say all of the disty are the same, I said 2WD vs. 4WD makes no difference. And as to the shape of the shaft, You've got it backwards. The MPFI use a screw to locate on the *O* shaped shaft. (if the screw comes out it can just spin.) SPFI uses the *D* shaped shaft. The rotor pop on and can't spin because of the shape of the shaft. Becasue of the difference, I'll retract my earlier call to order a Loyale cap(my bad) Instead, he should try getting a cap and rotor for a 89 GL Turbo. It may be the Non-tubro but still MPFI aspect that is throwing off the parts listing form wherever he's going.

4wd Wagon springs with 2wd shocks will give you the most height from any factory setup

If the bearing are the same, You could swap the whole EA82 backing plate. I know you have them. Then you'd be able to use shoes and drums from 85-94 GL/DL/Loyale. Plus it would be a teeny-tiny performance gain. Master cylinders must be matched for displacement to the 4 caliper/wheel cylinders. So Just make sure the Wheel cylinders aren't signifigantly larger, or the master cylinder will not be able to move enough fluid for them.

For $55, Scott of JR has given u this sweet option. http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=3 Look down the lit for the 3" diff lowering kit. Part # DLK3

That would require fabrication of brackets to hold the cable. It would work though. The way I was describing would use a combination of the 2 factory designs and parts . Machining required, but not actually any new designing/fabrication. Touch of a button, on the fly 4WD is great. As you mentioned, touch of a button, on the fly LO range, not so much.

Are those custom side markers? Or are thoe standard over there? I'd like a set;)

He's cooking his center VLSD as we speak.

You probably drained it trying to start her. Could be that you left the key in the "on" position after a no start.

That's what I'm betting on. It's not totally obvious that the mark to use is actually on the tab for the sensor, on the back rim of crank sprocket.

It's not the timing belt. Since you wapped coils, that' not it either. But IIRC, 1 and 2 fire as a pair, and the unused spark is "wasted". I am going to say you've got a broken or corroded wire, probably the one that signals 1+2 to fire.

That was my thought. That's why I asked if you could do the work yourself. I doubt they actually did take off the rotor. Just pulled and got nothing so they said "all new everything" for that system, the typical repair shop/liability/cover your rump roast line of thinking.

That's what those crazy exhaust tubes you asked about are for. It introduces air into the exhaust stream supposedly to prevent backfiring. It's convoluted, and doesn't really do much, even if it still works. The gaskets for thoe tubes are hard if not impossible to find, except from a dealer. IIRC they are crazy expensive from them. A thin bead of copper RTV or other high temp gasket maker, along with the old gasket if it's still intact is the most efficient option. Or remove the whole system. Swap on an EGR valve from an SPFI, tap and plug the holes in the exhaust ports, and ditch everything connected to those tubes. GD did do a write up about it somewhere.

I have an aversion to unbolting the mounts from the motor. Probably cause the first time I ever worked on a car with my dad, I watched him cuss and holler about a motor mount. He had unbolted the mounts, and upon reinstalling he cross threaded one of the bolts due to the crazy access angle. No room to back out and retap. He was forced to just stack a few washers on the bolt, and crammed it back into the crossed thread and said F-it. IIRC it was a 1.4 or 1.6 in a 77'ish wagon, so it's not like it was going to rip out from the massive loads placed on it If you're car isn't rusty, then droping the crossmember hair wouldn't be too hard. Don't forget to unbolt the steering U-joint shaft if you need to go that route.

Milemaker13 and I had this thought. I believe it can be done. It would require some machining. But the hard part is adapting the S/R 4wd lingage to the D/R case. Open the inspection plate at the rear of the trannys and you'll see the differences. I think if you removed the 4wd fork from the D/R, and installed the fork from the S/R you it would work. You'd have to grind D/Rs through shaft to clear the S/Rs fork. The S/Rs fork is activated by a lever that comes through the case on the side. Of course, you'd have to drill out the boss on the side of the D/R case for the lever to go through.

You don't need to pull the axles. Just pop the roll pins out so they can slide off the stubs a bit. Now jack the trans up a hair. Should be enough to get the room you need. Just make sure to get the axles back on the stubs properly lined up before lowering the trans and bolting down the motor

For an 89 XT, it wouldn't matter 2wd or 4wd. They would all use the same disty. In fact, for all EA82s, from 88+, 2wd or 4wd would make no difference at all for a cap and rotor.

There is a lockout solenoid on the shifter. It' activated by a relay when the key is on, and you depress the brake. If the fuse that was blown powers that circuit, you will be locked out. There is an overide button, in front of the shifter at it's base. For 95, IIRC it is covered by the trim console, so you would need to remove it.

The parking brake is what gets me. Are they serious?? I've never seen a set of e-brake shoes worn to the point of needing replacement. Just an adjustment should be fine. Can you do this work yourself? Or do they make you go to a shop? Pennsylvania seems to be one of the worst states for all this inspection crap. I think it's criminal that they salt the roads to destroy you're car, then force you to go through inspection.

All SPFI or MPFI use the Hitachi distributor. They probably have there listings screwed up for the XT Ask for a cap and rotor for a 91 Loyale.

I've got an EA71/ top starter, in Corvallis. Supposed to be a good runner, but I've never tested it.

Use4 a good set of 2wd struts. They are longer, and will lift you a bit more than the highest setting of the adjustables would.

The cone washer gets a lip crushed into it over time and repeated torquing. This lip catches and prevents the cone washer from seating properly and distributing the load. Usually a small file will take the edge down enough to make it work again. If you change alot of axles though, the ridge will come back, and get worse, to the point were filing won't help. Other less probable causes are a damaged spacer between the 2 bearings, or stripping spline inside the hub, where the axle comes through.

This doen't really happen often on the 4eat. More common on the old 3spd. The 4eat, the pump is between the diff and trans ections. The pump would have to start leaking. Pearl, are you sure you checked the correct dipstick, on the passenger side? I was able to quite a noisy diff in my Legacy by adjusting the diff bearing retainers 3 notches(turned left side *in*, right side *out*) to place the ring gear a hair closer to the pinion(.015 mm, or .006in. Every notch = .05mm, or .002 in.) In this case, because it was a manual, I could feel the backlash was to large just by going off and on the throttle. There was alot of jerking and bucking going on-off-on throttle. Adjustment eliminated the noise and helped the bucking immensly. But on an automatic, it's harder to tell if the noise is from being too *loose* or too *tight* Either can make noise Just remember, the ring gear is to the drivers side(left) of the pinion. So if you need to tighten it, run the left holder in a notch or 2, and the right holder out the same amount. Loosening would be the opposite, left out, right in. alway by the same amount. Unless you have a really good grasp of this and a mental picture of the insides, I wouldn't try it.

Do you have 2 electric fans? What is the condition of the water pump? Any problem with the accessory belts?