Gloyale

Yeah, sounds like what they do. Also, IIRC, That fuse also powers the heater in the auto choke. Try unhooking the wire for the choke heater. I've seen that be the cause of repeated blown ignition fuses.

And one nice pothole to catch the wheel and rip it out of you're hand causing you to crash. If you want to drive fast, get power steering. One handed, unassisted, hard cornering is dangerous. The true manula racks are probably not as bad as a power rack with no pump. But still they are hard. I have 165/80s on my little 86 sedan W/O power steering. And it still sucks. The worst part is side streets and parking lots. Espescially if someone else is coming around the corner the other way and you have to turn really tight to stay in you're lane. OH.....BTW..... I have converted a few NON-PS cars to PS and gas milage did not change.

No, they ranked it with the second lowest overall score. like 11 points out of 40

Either someone hardwired it to the ignition, or one of the 2 things to activate it are stuck. Failed thermoswitch, failed closed(never seen this happen) Or... failed A/C fan relay, failed closed (I have seen realys fail in this way) So, Buddy and Cracker, you guys should test those AC relays on you're passenger strut towers.

Don't let GD scare you too much. I've got an 86 with a feedback carb that runs great. You're flashing check engine light is possibly from someone leaving the 2 green test connectors hooked toghether. You'll need to find them to read codes, they're under the steering column. When you are done they are suppoesed to be unplugged for driving. LIving in Cali, I wouldn't do anything to the Carb setup unless it starts becomeing VERY troublesome. SPFI conversion would then be the best bet. Since the SPFI system is newer, aan came factory from subaru on vehichles that met Cali Certification, they can be smogged after that if all hoops are jumped through. The weber never came on a Soob, so there is really no way to get it smogged without getting some type of exemption.

That is just not true. There is a relay, mounted behind the passenger side strut, near the VAC canister. That relay turns on the electric fan whenever the AC is on. It is true that NON AC models did not have the Clutch fan. AC models did, but also the electric fan is wired to come on via relay with the AC.

You're thinking EA/ER stuff. The EJ cam is buried under the rocker arm assembly

In theory, this should work. But, now I remember why it was a maybe. IIRC The Diff will be in the way. Specifically the tappered bearing on the end. If you could pull the bearing and the big nylon gear of the diff carrier, then there would be enough room. Pulling the pressed bearing and gear off the diff is where I think you might have trouble. But in theory, If you can get the bearing and gear off, you should have access throught the bearing retainer hole.

I read the whole 4x4 cars article. The one with the 2 Audis, a civic 4wd, a corrola, 4wd, AMC Eagle wagon, mitsubishi/dodge colt, and of course a Subaru. They scored the Subaru very low. But I noticed everything they complained about, was options they choose for the test car. They tested an 86 RX sedan. Turbo, Parttime D/R trans, with NO POWER STEERING!!! They complained that the Checker seats where ugly(they chose the RX package) They said the D/R lever was *lacking feel and clunky* (they could have got the S/R pushbutton) And they said steering and road feel where rough( they got an RX, and they couldn't afford power steering? I would like to have seen them test both a Turbo and Non Turbo version like they did with the Audis. It kinda smacks of bias.

I completely disagree. It takes 2 hands to really hard corner with the Manual Steering. Problem is often when driving that hard, you need to grab a shift entering the corner or exiting it. Hard to do when you're hands are white knuckling the wheel. I've installed power steering into a few GL's and the difference is night and day.

Yes this would work. You'll need some angled snap ring pliers.

+1 for all that. The connectors are blue. NOT the ones right under the steering column(which would be green, and only if you have 2wd or Cali car w/ Feedback carb and ECU) Remove the COver for the fuse box. Now undo the 4 screws holding the corners of the fuse box. Now you can pull that fuse box forward. Look behind and to the left of where the fuse box was. you should see a total of 3 single pole connectors, 2 of which are plugged to each other and a third hanging. Disconnect the ones that are hooked up, and connect the previously unused one instead. Also untape that hose and point it down toward the block. That is how it is supposed to be.

Look at the side of the relay. It has a diagrahm right on it that shows which pins are which. Also Do you have the FSM wiring diagrahm?

If you bought that engine in the link, you are in trouble. That is a dual intake, MPFI engine. Hard to tell if it is for a turbo or not. But, If that is a turbo block, As Joostv mentioned, it will have very low compression pistons in it. Additionally, you're carb intake will not bolt onto the Dual port intake heads. You could use the block, but you will need to change over you're heads and possibly the pistons into it. Sorry.

I've seen the supposedly *bullet proof* early 2.2s have Headgasket failure exactly like this. It's not really all the 2.5s fault. Lots of types of cars have Headgasket failures between 150k-250k miles. They are just machines. Just be glad they are not GM or Chrysler products or we'd be talking about exploded pistons and worn out rings.

Uh....... 70mph uphill is pretty good for a 84 HP car. I guess if you really want to test it, plumb a *T* into the vac line to the secondary pot, and use a few feet of tube to set up a vac gauge in the cab and go for a drive.

The shifter forks are moved by a tab on the end of the selector orod insid ethe tranny. That is on the end of a *finger*, and is a little over a 1/4 inch wide. If it,or the groove in the reverse fork that it catches wear or bend, it could allow the shifter linkage, and the selector rod inside could move into the correct position, without actually engaging the fork or moving it. I suspect this is what happened. This type of wear is what can cause 2 gears engaged at once, which binds bad and becomes hard to get out of gear, sometimes breaking when forced. As you can see, It would not take too much to bend those small pieces. I've held them, and they are sturdy, but definately not indestructible.

I think 86 thru89 is what he meant. He is trying to use An EA82T in a custom Trike/motorcylcle that is currently Carbed I believe. To accomplish that he would need the ECU, Harness,MAF, And Fuel Pump for an EA82T. Not only that, he would need to determine which type of EA82T the engine in question is. Flapper MAF(85,86) vs. Hotwire(87-91) and then use the appropriate ECU

Just looking over the diagrahm, this is what I would think to be right. Or at least this way would function.

Correct. Lever is for gearing Diff lock is for locked 4WD traction (slippery stuff only)

Ugghhhh.......I'd rather do this:dead: to myself than use a GM motor. ESPESCIALLY the 4.3

I prefer leather seats with my dogs. Of course, my dog are very shaggy and hairy. It is much easier to get the hair off and mud off. Besides, they mostly stay behind the Seperator in the trunk.

True. You could probably use belts from a 95 or newer car, after they ditched the Auto belt for Dual airbags. That is probably the best idea.

Ahh...... see that's what I meant. Everyone says the AA lift leave the diff up in place. I was not aware that thier kit employed a spacer for the mustache bar. I guess if that's already there, then yeah the front of diff spsacer is all you need. IIRC, the BYB kit drop the whole rear subframe. Now that is overkill for a 3-4 inch lift.

You would need an ECU and harness. As well as a MAF sensor. Or you could use a standalone ECU system.