Gloyale

Just add a 3 dollar prestone flush kit *T* into the line. It will serve the same function and be there to use for flushes.

Looks like the next generation of Turbocharged Subaru Diesels.

If the AT temp light flashes at start up you have a code. Since you say it is after driving, and you have no codes (did they actually scan the trans codes or just ECU?) it may be a case where the Temp sensor is falsly reading high temp. This happens if the wire for the temp sensor shorts to ground, or the sensor shorts internally. I had a similar thing happen and it turned out to be the temp sensor wire was shorting out to the shielding around it.

The drivers side belt tensioner overlaps the pump body slightly. If you're belt is stretched, the tensioner might be down out of the way far enough, but likely you'll need to remove that tensioner. But the belt can stay in place, just don't let it slip.

They make smaller ones for tie rod ends too

I used to have a net from the trunk of an 89 taurus srung across the ceiling of my wagon. It was great for camping/living out of my GL wagon with just me and the dogs. I had the back folded down pretty much always for sleeping so the net didn't interfere. But when I folded up the seats and had rear passengers, it was in their way:-\

In my mind it's a way to get more life out of worn clutches. I HAD to use my C-lock switch to get good AWD in my GL. With the switch it worked great. That was until I swapped to a new trans, new clutches(keeping the same TCU) I have not had to use the switch with the new trans. But if the clutches start slipping I have confidence my switch will be of help again. It is a hydraulic clutch pressurized 160% of its intended operating pressures, That's pretty damn locked. Might as well be a solid shaft.

Chevy rims sticck out. Toyotas and Nissans not so much. 14 inch Mazda b2200 rims are a perfect fit and had some pretty sharp factory alloys.

I agree some other things might be going on. I have fought with digidash voltage issues before. The dashs are just wacky, espescially the orange ones. Focus on you're voltages everywhere else, that's really all that matters. As far as other grounds, check the one on in the engine harness that bolts to one of the passenger side intake bolts. Be careful taking the bolt out, they like to snap. But that is the main ground for the ECU and all the sensors and solenoids. The ignition switches themselves are prone to failure as well. Not even really *failure* so much as just won't conduct enough amps to power the starter. I'd wire in a fused pushbutton straight to the starter. The O2 sensor may well need a better ground. I'd bolt up the pipe to the trans at anyrate. If anything hits it from underneath without it being bolted firm to the trans, the load will be placed on the turbine flange, and the up-pipe.(I broke the flange of my Up-pipe once this way)

If you're brake pedal still has alot of give after bleeding, often it means you need new rear shoes. The linings are thin and the auto adjuster only takes up so much. You end up with the Shoes having to travel pretty far before making contact with the drum.

Great idea if you don't like you're ECU.

Most tire shops will not mount standard tires on spare rims. And for good reason. It's way too easy to roll the tire bead off the rim with a wheel that skinny.

No need to disconnect the injectors or the coil. Just pull the plugs. Then crank the engine for hte test with a remote starter switch or simply by jumpering a wire from +12v to the starter solenoid. (It's so easy on subarus:grin: ) That will crank the engine without powering the ECU, Fuel pump, coil, etc....

All Subaru motors after 97 are interference motors. Change you're timing belt religiously, or else.....

Yeah that's my buddy Gemini in the Lego. My GL Turbo 4eat pulling him out. We actually have been through that same hole succesfully before. But the spring thaw filled it with alot of new silt. And then I think ATVs have been chewing it up. Fun times

You would only need the control arm and a-arm mounts if you were installing the 2 1/2 inch Outback body spacers with the struts. Which is not needed. My thought was to use the whole Outback set(struts, crossmember blocks, control arm and A-arm mounts)) and then additionally using a 2-3 inch strut top lift. That would end up with the same driveline axles as the OB strut Legacy, but with 3 inch higher body.

That's because the Outback has spacer blocks that actually lower the driveline in relation to the body. Subaru did this to keep the same axle angles LEG vs. OB, but they aren't really needed. The axles can take the added angle pretty well. So yes you get more clearance at the diffs from a LEG w/OB struts than the regular OB has.

That is a really good question. I could see the bolt locking the sleeve but letting the joint slip out. Although actually slipping ALL the way out is very unlikely without some duke of hazrd style action. But shifting around isn't good:-\ . IDK, seems like it would probably be fine.

With the exception of 2wd rear wheels. Which is the topic of this thread. They use a totally different setup. More akin to old RWD front wheel bearings.

Our headlights are already powered by relays. I don't see anything to gain from that article. Ok, I read further and the part at the bottom about the *extra high* beam set-up utilizing the HI and LO filaments at the same time sounds cool. I think Daeron asked about doing this once. Might be a high load on the positive side if not run with seperate relays.

I don't like doing work twice. And I have to be able to give some quality assurance to my customers. Installing motors of unknown condition is not an option.

Then you have a poor connection, open, or shorted circuit for the temp sensor. As Screwbaru mentioned, The cooling system is not ECU monitored, other than to read a temp. Stop leak stuck to the sensor at the worst would cause a low temp reading, which would not set a CEL. Besides, you've flushed and replaced the sensor, so what would be stuck to it? Any Stop leak still in the system is surely cured and hardened in place by now. You need to test for continuity end to end on the 2 wires for the sensor. Wait, I just thought of something, are you sure you changed the correct Temp Sensor? There are 2. The small one with one tab connector is for the gauge. It's the bigger one with 2 wires that is for the ECU, and is the one that will set a CEL if faulty. BTW, Stop taking you're car to Jiffylube unless you want to have more problems.

There weren't any of these in the US market with the exception of the EJ18 in early imprezas, and EJ20 in the earler WRXs. All other US EJs were 2.2 or 2.5

installing the FWD fuse connects a signal circuit on the TCU to ground. One side of the fuse holder is connected to the TCU, the other should be bolted straight to the car body for ground. Fairly close to the FWD fuse holder itself. Check that the grounded side of the fuse holder actually is grounded.

Can you show any literature or pics to back this up? Considering that the TCU already recieved speed signals from 2 sensors, I don't understand why 2 more would be added?