Gloyale

Hmmm.... I would try for something from a newer vehichle. 90s not 80s. Nissan probably has the same or similar solenoids. Which means if they are a similar age, they could be shot too. You're trying to find one that's 10-15 years old, not 20-25.

No, not really. Most of them are Hitachi or Denso. The difference is later vehichles, like 90-96 Troopers and Amigos, Toyotas, and Hondas have several solenoids a piece. And they are newer. Also, at least the Toyotas and Hondas have a better change of having NOT been driven hard or abused in the snow/mud like a subie.

I believe you're right. If the shaft was definately spinning hard with no grinding then the problem is in you're rear end. Either the diff itself. Or perhaps one of the CVs in the axles but I would think that would be obvious if it was the case. Pull the rear diff cover and inspect.

Since you mention Clutches and putting it in 4x4 I suspect you have the GL's original D/R 5spd? If that's the case, you may have stripped the teeth on the 4wd engagement hub. The teeth on the hub are only about 3/16 of an inch wide. The hub could be dragging from friction when you put it on the lift, but not able to hold and transmit power. It's easy to inspect the engagement gear and hub at he tail end of hte tranny by removing the cover plate from the top of the rear section. But if you are sure the driveshaft is being engaged fully, and you don't hear any grinding, you're trouble could still be in the diff. Perhaps the pinion shaft snapped?

Sounds like a headgasket. It is an expensive job if you have a shop do it. Not that bad if you do 'em your self. But think about it. $2000 spread over a year is about $175 a month. Payments on anything comparable would likely be close to that. And after a fresh reseal you should expect much more than just another year from you're Subaru.

What about instead of angling the the plate to have the carb sit level, just having it be flat? That would leave the carb tilted forward on the flats, but more level on the up hill climbs? Heck, you could possibly bolt it straight to the top of the intake by just drilling and tapping stud holes? What do you think?

Where is The damage? If you pull the interior panels, there are lots of access holes in the interior walls. Unless you MAJORLY crunched it, you should be able to massage it out from the inside, without cutting or welding. Pics would really help.

He's right. I'll bet you're HC and CO are high from poor combustion at idle. Weak spark and old plugs. I'd try: New spark plugs and wires. New Fuel Filter. New PCV valve. New air filter. Change oil. Then I would go for a long hot drive on the freeway before testing. The hotter the Catalytic, the more efficient it is(to a point, I know, I know). But definately get her good and warm, and run some good fuel.

I've done at least 2 where the cause was the headgasket, and the symptom was overheating. Niether car was driven while hot. The one car the owner babied around with only occasional issues for about 6 months, before the gasket let loose completely. But neither had T-stat issues, Waterpumps, hoses, etc.. where all good. HGs just went. It happens. Ask Uberoo about his EJ swap.

He's in New Hampshire. No amount of strengthening will save a car forever there. Too much Salt. Those of us with with West Coast cars don't need to reinforce for rust, because we don't have any.

Vaccum Solenoids off of other vehichles will work if you have trouble finding an intact, functioning replacement. I like the ones from Isuzu troopers, and Hondas. You'll have to swap connectors, and make sure you get one with the same functions (off closed, on open)

I drove both my carbed GLs in Wisconsin winters. I don't think either had a snorkus. The coolant lines at the base of the carb should keep it warm enough to prevent icing. I feel like there is a different problem here. But I can't think of one. So I guess getting some warm air to the carb couldn't hurt.

Have you checked that the valve is normally closed? Can't blow through? Have you tried blowing through the solenoid, with 12v applied to see if it opens or is stuck/clogged? Have you tested the resistance of the solenoid valve? Have you tried using a different solenoid valve? As a last resort a 33 ohm resistor(5 Watt IIRC) soldered in place of the solenoid should shut off the CEL. If you do this, plumb the vac lines to the solenoid toghether so the EGR valve always get's vaccuum. This could cause a bit of power loss under heavy throttle until warmed up. (That is the job of the solenoid, to halt EGR function until engine is warmed up to temp. The old ones used a thermovalve instead of being switched on by the ECU via the solenoid)

Iron V8s don't need the T-stat to open and close as quickly to regulate temperature. Plus anything with a 454 has a ginormous radiator and alot of coolant capacity. Their cooling system is actually not working as hard as ours. Remeber that the thermostats real job is not cooling, it's REGULATION of the temperature. Those aftermarket T-stats open pretty quick and stay open pretty much completely once warm. Read all the posts about EA82 *overcooling*. At the same time they(aftermarkets) have a smaller flow (smaller opening) which means at peak demand it can't flow enough, even though it's fully open. This means you're car can go from running too cool down a hill, then overheating going up it. OEM T-stat will stay closed a bit longer, allowing for faster warm-up. They also react more quickly at their set temperature, actually restricting flow if the engine starts getting too cool like it's supposed to. It really is a part that there IS a difference on.

Maybe It's because I get more clients with older cars, but I've actually had to replace more 2.2 HGs than 2.5's. The fact is that 2.2s will blow headgaskets and overheat just like a 2.5. Sometimes at 150k, sometimes at 250k, some never do, but they still could just like any 2.5. Ever since the 70's, people have been saying Subarus have Headgaskets issues. Guess what?? They are right. Good thing Headgaskets are not that hard. I don't know why people consider it *easier* or *better* to swap to a 2.2 $400 plus the labor($300-500) to put it in vs. $200 in parts and machining + labor($400-700) Seems the cost is about the same. And you get the advantage of a reseal and get to keep a few extra ponies. I personally wouldn't install a used motor without a reseal including HGs. So at that point better to keep the 2.5 since you're tearing down a motor anyhow. Most places it's the other way round because of Emmissions and DOT regulations. Plus liability if random issues pop up(CELS, Stalling, etc...)

You'll see if you look at it, the whole front section of the driver side of the engine, is a cast aluminum piece, almost a spacer, what you and others are calling the bracket. Directly above the water pump. It's mounted with 3 bolts to the block. The Tensioner is mounted to the bracket. Get the bracket from any other Phase 1 EJ and you're set.

He'll need those anyhow with he heads off. But actually EJ intakes carry neither oil or coolant, so there's no way intake gaskets could cause that on an EJ. Even EA intakes which carry water, have nothing at all to do with the oil, so intake gaskets on any Soob wouldn't produce oil in water, or water in oil. Intake gaskets on EA can allow Coolant into combustion chamber, but not into oil. 1/8th inch endplay seems a bit much, but measurement is needed.

You can get them for 90 Loyale for sure. I believe it's Supplements only after that(although virtually nothing changed after 90 except more options dropped)

Bob, Here is an easy way to set this up. Starting from the setup in this picture.(assuming the crank is at TDC here) Rotate the crank clockwise excactly 90 degrees. This will leave the marks on the Camshafts at 45 degrees. Get it to the point where the dots are excactly at 45 degrees(one of the large holes on the rim will be excactly at the top) then mark the Crank sprocket at the top center with a punch. This will be you're new belt installation mark. Now using that mark in place of the 3 flywheel lines reset the belts wth the dots at the top. of course rotating once between belts so the dots end up 180 degrees opposite.) The belt installation doesn't use the TDC mark for ease of installation. Using a point 90 degrees off makes it so the lobes on the cam are not pushing very hard against any of the vavles. That way you are not fighting so hard to keep the CAM from *popping* off it's mark during installation.

Will you sell me those cams that came with it? If they are the Non-turbo MPFI XT cams they have the longest duration of any factory CAM. Same lift, just open earlier and closes a bit later. PM me.

Okay, Creepy. Four-FLeet-Feet used to live in Clearfield PA, my home town. An now You used to work in Kenosha? My wife and her whole family are from there. Her Dad worked for AMC, then Chrysler for years. My son was born in Racine. Crazy small world.

Those 2 jobs couln't be further apart on the difficulty and price scale. And neither would be $250 Just replacing the valve cover gaskets should be $100 tops, including parts, or you're getting ripped off.(even $100 is high) Replacing the Rear main, means pulling the motor(or trans) and would surely cost $500 plus by the time you paid a shop to do it. I'm sure they'd want to sell you a clutch and do a full reseal while it was out. More$$$ Seems like the OP is pretty sure it's a PS leak. I would check the O-rings mentioned between the resevior and pump. If that isn't it, pull back the steering boots and see if you've got any fluid leaking out the ends of the rack.

I do not think you need to have custom lines made. Might need to bend the old RX ones slightly. Or I think you can actually use a rack from an EJ. You just need to cut a small hole in the crossmemeber for the EJ racks hoses to come thru. Then just use the whole EJ pump, lines, and rack. Maybe grossgary will read this, I think he was the one who put an EJ rack in his one of his XTs. At any rate, adapting the PS pump for an EA/EJ swap is one of the easier issues with the swap.

It's not in the dash. It's under it, on the drivers side wall. Just up above the hood latch pull.

I'll say first that I'm not advocating for the weber. But.... I find the statement that it would be unlikely to pass the sniffer kinda odd. Lets see. The engine would be burning the same gas, through the same engine, through the same CAT, with the same EGR valve. I think as long as it wasn't too rich or lean, youd be fine. Emmisions are looking for 3 things: HydroCarbons (HC) mostly a result of mixture and efficiency of the engine(rings, valves, good compresion and timing) Catalytic Converter further reduces HCs. Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) This is why you're EGR vavle is here. Fewer Oxides of Nitrogen are formed by way of lowering cylinder temps. Also highly influenced by ignition timing(failed mech and Vac advance systems in soob distys often causes high NOx readings) COx(carbon mono and dioxide) Again, engine efficiency, and Catalytic Converter. So... With a properly jetted and mixture adjusted weber, and all other emmisions systems being equal(EGR,CAT,Timing...) I would think a weber could pass a sniffer as easily as a non feedback Hitachi.