Gloyale

I could be wrong, but.... IAC on the Throttle body, Coilpack off center, and the shape of the valve covers look like a SOHC 2.5 What year and model is the car? Also, the MAF, Harness, and ECU would all stay in the car during an engine swap. Even if someone put the wrong motor in, the Maf harness would still be there. It's either been chopped, or is folded away hidden.

Only issue will be seatbelt if you have the auto belts. I don't think the lap belt of you're impreza will fit the buckle that's riveted(why????) to the Forrester Seat. At least you'll still have you're auto shoulder belt.

How could we stop you? Really, I WANT you to be driving you're car. Hopefully you'll find functioning solenoids to hook up and all will be well. My fingers are Crossed for ya.

<<<<<<<read Star Wars style>>>>>>>> It's not truuuuuuuuue!!! I'll never rule the universe with you!!!!

2 wrongs don't make a right.......... But 3 lefts do:cool:

1-5/16" thick? sounds right for a 2 core. If the others ones are 5/8 or 11/16 then that one is problay a 2 core.

I'd say just dropping the trans would be easiest. That way you don't have to mess with other stuff like, fuel lines, wireing etc. Definately plan on replacing the clutch. You'll need to unbolt the lower control arm and sway bar bracket. Pop the roll pins out of the axles and swing them outward. Now you can unbolt the Exhaust, rear driveline, the shifter linkage, and the four engine to trans bellhousing bolts. Unhook the wiring connectors near the top front of the trans. Place a jack under the trans, drop the crossmember, and remove the tranny. Installation is reverse.

I think he just didn't center the wheel. And his explanation of *having to turn twice as far* is just a way of saying It's tilted right, so you have to turn it back to center to turn left, and then further(although the wheels and car will be going left the whole time). Or having to turn it back past center to actually be drivng straight.

Did you ever solve the charge/stop/break lights?

Okay, Okay. You're right. I guess I wasn't firing on all cylinders the first time I responded to this.

Wait, so you only got power to fuse 6 when you turned the *parking* switch on? Not just with the key on? There should be power to fuse 6 with just the key *on*. All light switches off, there should still be power to fuse 6. Try this. Pull fuse # 4. That is the fuse that powers the *parking* switch. Now see if you get any power at fuse 6 when you hit the *parking* switch?

I may at least be able to offer you a good place in the harness to start checking. This threadhttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85721 is about an issue with fuel injection caused by a corroded crimp splice in the harness. Obviously this is not a FI issue, but there is a common thread. The power wire out to fuses 6 and 7 splits, most likely via one of these crimp splices. Perhaps that is the spot where the corrosion is? Although you said there was voltage to Fuse 6? Perhaps you checked for voltage there, while the *parking* switch was on, backfeeding the circuit? I don't have the correct FSM here to tell you wire and plug color. I'll look for some more potential trouble spots and check back.

We're trying to help. Lots of other here have struggled trying to repair the solenoids only to have the code KEEP COMING BACK. If the CEL comes on it doesn't matter what ever else he may look at. The test will be conducted with the engine warm. And the standards set for it apply to it only in the warmed up state. There is no way in hell the guy is going to wait for hte car to cool down, put a vaccum pump on the Solenoid, and test that it shuts OFF the EGR before warm-up. I personally want to see you be able to drive this car in Cali. Neither of the methods I've discussed will negatively affect the emissions performance. Frankly the Resistor method may be you're most failure proof method. And I would think keeping the CEL off would be mission #1. But by all means try to use a new solenoid. BTW, I was born in Cali, and I got my very first liscense there. And why didn't you just tap and plug the ports ASV ports on the heads? That would be way less noticable.

Ah yes, I forgot about the EA81 SJR kit. I believe there are aftermarket shocks available that will bolt in and are 3-4 inches longer. I think Slideshow? Was making kits and had the stock # for the longer shocks. Perhaps search his posts? This is the thread. Page 6. perhaps PM him for the part #s http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82483&page=6&highlight=lift

Actually it's elimintaing the cause of the problem. Solving it forever. I think you don't understand. Those solenoids DISABLE the emission equipment until warmed up. Bypassing the solenoids (correctly) would leave the Evap and EGR systems functioning. Now pre warm up performance might suffer a tad, but I doubt in Cali that will be much of an issue. If you really want to install new solenoids, we told you where to get better ones. You yourself found out that even those fail sometimes. And the rate will get higher and higher as time goes on. The resistor idea is a more permanent solution. Again, I don't always like how he says it, but GD is trying to give you good advice.

well, then we need someone who knows excqactly where the relays are on an EA81.

I've seen slop like that on manys Subaru front diffs. It worried me at first. But recently I opened up one of the those diffs and all was fine. Seems MOST of the slop I was feeling was actually the stub moving in the splined portion of the diff. Autos are more prone to this as they are held by spring clips. IDK, but You may be worrying too much. You could try tightening the retaining plates a notch or 2 in on both sides.

Good luck with that. It is illegal to sell a used cat. Also Illegal to install one, even if it fell off the same vehichle. Some places will do it, but most won't.

Sounds like crap to me. I can't even think what he possibly means???? Get an alignment and it should be fine.

Hmm. The ignition *switch* and the leyed ignition cylinder are 2 seperate items. You can remove the ignition cylinder entirely, and still have a functioning ignition switch. Now I'm not ruling it out. I'm just saying jacking with the tumblers shouldn't have any affect on the switch itself as they are seperate items.

I wouldn't say it quite the same way.......but..... he's right. Wire the resistor correct, and plumb the EGR directly to it's vacuum sorce. You can have you're cake(no CEL) and eat it too (functional EGR)

It would help to know what vehichle we're talking about here. If this is you're 88 RX, then yes, there is a relay. 2 actually. one for each headlight, the running lights are powered by the one for the left headlight. They are up under the dash, to the left of the steering column, mounted in a bracket with 4 relays total.

Who are you ordering you're kit from??? Most companies (SJR,AA,BYB) have some sort of shock arrangement covered. SJR and BYB uses blocks at the top which allow you to use you're factory struts. AA adds extensions to the bottom. Are you sure you're going to need to do anything with the struts?

The catalytic has no moving parts. It can't *wear out*. Generally they either get clogged, or the catalyst material wil begin to break up, which will contribute to poor catalytic action. Both are fairly uncommon occurances. Change you're O2s first.

Because it DOES have something to do with engine opertaion. You assumed it didn't/