Gloyale

Unless you have a Genuine ubaru timing belt, i would disregard those lines entirely. I've gotten aftermarket belts were those line were just plain wrong. They were aligned with the teeth and valleys of the belt in such a way that 2 of the lines could never align with the marks on the pulley. When I installed the belt properly, the lines ended up off. one line was 1/2 tooth left and another was 1-1/2 teeth left. But all alignment marks on the engine were correct and it ran perfect when fired up. Subaru has marked the crank gear and the cam gears so you don't need the lines on the belt. Just align the pulley marks(dots, not arrows) all straight up and install the belt. Make sure all marks are at dead on straight top and you'll be fine

If you remove the whole unit, you can rip the cable out. Then run the buckle by hand down to the *locked* position. I had to do this once. The cable had become so chewed up, it would not retract, even with the hand crank. Or pony up and spend money on a replacement track/motor unit from the J-yard. Problem is that it will wear out eventually too. I hate auto seatbelts.

Glad it worked out for you. Did you ever determine why the new starter was just spinning? Was it the wrong one? or just a bad one? Also, where did you pull the 12v for the puhbutton from? If you wired straight from the battery, make sure to put a fuse or fusible link in as near to the battery connection as you can. Or you may end up with a fire.

I know what the full $55 (IMO way cheap for how nice it's made)kit does. The full 3" diff drop kit has 2 pieces though. A 2"spacer for the front of the diff, and a 3" drop hanger for the rear 'tache bar attachment. I know about the angles too, which is why I asked about dropping just the front of the diff. NumbChux statement that only the front of diff spacer is needed is why I asked. eems to me that doing that would not help axles much, and would point the nose down increasing the driveline angle between the carrier and the rear diff. I was asking him if he also did anything to the 'stache bar, or just slapped in the spacer at the front. And if so, what did that do to his driveline angle, and axle stretch issues?

You're right GD, he did say 4wd. But his other post about Duty Solenoid being disconnected threw me off. So......something is not adding up here? Ferox, Are you SURE you even have an ECU? Perhaps someone put a 2wd engine/carb into this car? But GD is right, 81 4wd should not have an ECU unless it's a Cali car.

2wds also would have an ECU.

Wow, Cynthia Nixon when he was young and ......uh.....nevermind.

I realized after poting that maybe you didn't want to hear Poo-Pooing of the new car. sorry. I'm sure it' a great car, it' a Subaru. Honestly though. I think the Brat looks tough, even with 13s. Look like it belongs in the desert on a dirt road. Forrester looks like it should be at a drive thru espresso booth. Although the rear end does have a nice Landcruiser/LX450 look to it.

Wish I could buy an Outback Diesel. I think the Dual Exhasut is the coolest thing about the new Forrester. But now that the Forrester is a bloated Highway cruiser, when is Subaru gonna introduce the new "utility" model? I'm thinking of an Outback or Tribeca platform with styling and ground clearance something between a Honda Ridgeline and a Toyota FJ Cruiser. Like a Baja on steroids. But without too much in the bell and whistle dept. Or even just a lightly lifted, Dual Range, steel wheel, stripped down version of the Forrester would be great, but it seems like they are going the opposite direction. The new Subarus just don't look *TOUGH* like they used to.

If he has the style with the tensioner built into the bracket, yes he will need to remove it to get the covers off.

Firing order is the same as all Soobs. 1-3-2-4 Killing a MAF with brake cleaner is usually something that happen to the Hot-wire style. You have a Flapper MAF, all it' electrical contacts are sealed in the upper portion of it, out of the airstream. I doubt you got any brake cleaner in there, or that it would caue any issue. I am suspect of the Cap/Rotor. For some reason, it seem these are THE hardest thing to make sure you are getting the right part. Many different models used similar but not identical parts. I bought 5 caps and rotor for my 86 EA82T when I found the right ones, just to not have to track them down again.

You should not have any voltage to the solenoid wire in the *on* position. It is the *start* position where that wire should get power, 12v, and only then. If you meant *start*, and you only have .024v, then that is not enough. Although, that doesn't explain why the starter is spinning all the time. Hmm.. Interested to see what you find.

Did you find the other? It's on the other side of the *saucer*. You'd almost have to either feel for it or look from the bottom to find it.

Sorry, missed that in the first post. Well, it could be that you're relay is sticking that is causing the constant spinning. You could test its operation with a Multimeter. Look for continuity across the contacts even when not energized. Although the spinning itself is troubling. The gear is either not kicking out to engage,(bad starter, unlikely) or,...it is not the right starter or is not installed right. Sorry to keep saying that, but if it's brand new, spinning, but not engageing, something is wrong there. The drive gear is not hitting the flywheel, there must be a reason why.

If it's spinning, it's getting power. So if it's the correct starter, and installed right, they gave you a bad one. Which I doubt. Double check the application and installation. Then, disconnect the solenoid wire to the starter. Then test that wire for 12v. If there is power there other than when you hit *start* with the key, you have a problem. Go back to the connector you unplugged and figure out why it's sending power through. Once you've solved that, you can get back to testing the starter. Too bad you probably just have poor contact in your ignition switch and only needed a pushbutton.

What relay???? are you talking about the solenoid on the starter? Loyales do not use a relay for starting. I'd love to help, but this i confusing.

I think we just want them all to be Limited Slip:rolleyes: "People, please, Can't we all just get a lock??"

Cool. It sound like you figured it out. You just have to match your transmission and rear diffs. LSD vs. OPEN is a seperate thing, but then still dependant on a matching diff and trans. Hope my comments weren't taken with offense. Now that you've clarified about the supposed LSDs(which turned out were actually jut open diffs) this thread makes a whole lot more sense. You basically had a gearing question. Adding the LSD swap talk just made it all very confusing.

do you mean starter? you replaced it already? with a used one or a new? This is the first thing I want to know. Likely you're starter wasn't bad. You may need to get it back and reinstall it to track this down, since the replacement has seemingly caused more issues than it's solved. What relay??? The wire to the starter solenoid? Or the connection for the ignition switch? seems like maybe you plugged in the connector backwards. If you replaced the starter, is it possible you did not get it bolted in completely? If it is not seated, it will not engage the flyweheel and will just freespin. Also, are you positive you have the correct starter? If you have the wrong one it also may not engage and will freespin.

Doesn't that point the front of the diff down? Seems like it'd be more important to drop the rear of it at the mustache bar? Did you drill lower holes in the mustache bar?

You talk about it as if you think the LSD diff is in the Tranmission. It's not. There is a differential in the front of the trans, but none of them are LSD. I don't think you understand that the LSD differentials we are talking about are rear diffs. The rear diff ratio must match the front diff in the transmission(which none are LSD) Other than that, they are totally separate and independent items You also contradict yourself. you say your 84 Turbo has 3.7 LSD, but then you ask if you will need to swap it to 3.7? Personally, I doubt any of those vehicles have Limited Slip. As far as I know, it was not offered even as an option until 1985 with the introduction of the EA82. MAYBE the 84 Turbo would have it. But you're 83, 3.9 automatic??? And an 82?? No way. Until you understand: A) what a differential is and does What a Limited slip differential is and does C) the fact that Subarus have a front and rear differential, and only the rear diffs were available in Limited Slip (LSD) D) That adding an LSD won't give you any more power or gearing than an open diff of the same ratio. .........you should hold back your Questions. I think if you search and learn about this stuff, you will answer your own questions.

No need for shootin:bang: If that is what you meant that's great. But How would that affect the idle? unless it's not sending the signal to the ECU that the car is in *D*? He says he *hard tested* it? I would assume that means jumpering the wires for the *D* signal and driving. Which should tell the ECU it's in *D* and be all it needs unless there is a problem elsewhere. All the Idle/Nuetral Switch problem combos I've read about are with Manuals.

Let me know what part they send you , because the Autos DO NOT have a *Neutral Safety Switch* You will either get the selector/ inhibitor switch assembly for the Auto (which you've say you've already tested) Or you'll get one of two parts for a manual. Either the Nuetral switch which screws to the side of the trans a the rear. You're auto trans does not have one. Or you will get the Clutch/Starter interlock switch, which bolts to the clutch pedal something you also don't have. I am here trying to help, so don't take offense. But you guessed, and you have guessed wrong.

Both go to the actuator. One line from each of the 2 solenoids. One hose to each side of the diaphragm. One pulls into 4wd, the other pulls back to 2wd.

Read the caption at the bottom left. It is wrong. It states that Subaru use a stubby longitudal driveshaft for the front like an Audi.