Gloyale

Not enough info to go by here. Overheating while *snowbashing* could be from a snow obstructed radiator. Water from the exhaust is normal in mot cases. Any grey smoke? Los of coolant? Overheating under *regular* driving? Those would be signs of a bad HG. But I'll say this, overheating it make it more likely that they will blow if they haven't yet.

I'd imagine they are seperate, like the older car, but I don't know. Never had cause to open an Outback column.

There are 6 sections to the Subaru FSM's. Section #6 is electrical wiring. Section #4 is suspension,brakes, and steering. Depending on the year however, some of the sections are physically in the same book. In 89 it's just 2 books. sec 1,2,3 are one book, 4,5,6 is a second book. Other year FSM are available too, although I think 90 is the last year for the Loyale FSM, and is used for the rest of production til 94.

This make me think Ignition switch. It'd be worth it to test for voltage at the main Ignition switch connector. Look for any blips or dead spots when cranking and going back and forth between *start* and *On*

Check the Red w/White wire at the headlight switch column connector for continuity to ground when you hit the high beams. (hook you're test light clip to a +12V source and touch the probe to the Red w/White wire). If you have continuity (tester lights) then the problem is further down the line. Repeat the test for ground at the connector for the bulbs. Test the Red w/White wire. If you're tester doesn't light I suspect at the junction where the wire splits for each side. Follow the Red w/White wire from the headlight bulb socket back into the harness. I'd start on the driver side and peel back the tape 'til you find the split.

This is a misconception. Plenty of Automatic Subarus go to 250k+ miles without any trans problems. You hear about problem here alot because people come here when they have problems, not when everything is fine:rolleyes: I'd find a used automatic, from a place that will give you a "working" warranty. 30 to 90 day or so. Make sure to get the correct gear ratio trans, or get a matching rear end. You're car should be 3.9. A transmision from a 90-94 legacy should work or a 93-95 Impreza. Non outback Legacys 95-99 may work a well, and others. You could go to 4.11 or 4.44 from a newer auto if you use the matching rear diff.

Yeah, basically anywhere int he wiring that a split from one to 2 or more wire is made is done by one of those brass ring crimp type connections. They are a very good, conductive, connection. The fact that they tend to corrode is what makes them "shady". Any time I encounter an electrical problem on a Subaru, one of the firt thing I do is look at the diagrahm for that circuit, to see if there is a splice. If there is, I split the harness and find the splice to inspect it. About half the time, it's the problem. Check out thi thread, and the one it reference in the USMB http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85721

stop looking for the relay. (they are up under the dash to the left of the column, pull the lower panel to get to them) You don't need to find them. The relay(s) for the headlights supply power for each side. If either beam on a side works, it means the relay for that side is working. In fact the 12v for either beam comes from the same wire, it is the ground that is switched for hi/lo. Since you're low works, relay is not the issue. I believe you're problem is a broken or corroded wire in the HI beam circuit. The HI beam witch in the stalk should activate both when pushed or pulled(momentary). So I think if it were the switch itself, the HI would work when one of the 2 ways ,not both set of contacts failed. That indicates it must be the wire to me, since it' unlikely both sets of contacts burnt out. Whose got the lighting diagrahm??

It should. Gary, didn't you already know that about the MPFI EA/ER ECUs?

If you want to keep the Inner cup and axle shafts for later use: Remove the Diff. Once dropped, it will come off the inner stubs with one twisting, one at, a time. Don't let it drop to the floor, or you might over extend the axle. Use a jack to cradle, drop it a few inches then twist it (swivle horizontally)on the jack. Cut the DOJ(inner joint)clamp and pull it back. There IS a circlip around the rim of the cup that needs removed. This is where the afore mentioned screwdriver comes in. A skinny one IMO Find one of the ball grooves with you're finger and feel for the thin round clip at the rim, inert the screwdriver under the clip at one of the groove and pry it out, carefully, going round to search for the open end before fully removing. It is skinny, and easy to bend if you just yank. Now slide off the DOJ cup(outboard). There is a small circlip holding the inner CV race to the axle shaft. Remove it. Cut the clamps off the inner joint and pull the boot off. You now have just the spring clip on the end of the axleshaft holding it into the Outboard CV. All the above is basically the procedure for changing the boots. So...... now it is time for a slide hammer. Attaching it to the end of the axle is the tricky part. Clamps are available, or easy to fabricate. Or...... skip all the above, cut the axle shaft:zzz: , weld a hook onto into it for a slide hammer. If you wanted to preserve just the shaft, you could sacrafice the inner race, by welding a hook or clamp to it, and using the slide hammer on that.

Hopefully it's not from something like this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=542786

oops

*this Mark* is the correct one. Hopefully that is the one you used.

There just trying to brush you off. A GOOD locksmith should be able to do it for you. Find a good ole boy, look into places that do alot of Security Safes. I know a great one who would do it, but he's in Wisconsin.

Hmm. not good. But you've got the diagnosis backwards. If the rings were bad, a *wet* test would seal them and bump up pressure. That is provided the valves sealed tight. Since the wet test made no real difference, that means a valve is leaking. Although a proper leakdown would be the best test. But sounds to me like you need head work.

You are correct, at the engine connections. You're connector swap wouldn't matter. It's at the ECU the pins are swapped. Wouldn't be an issue unless the car was originally non-turbo, and you are trying to install the turbo ECU, which I don't think is the case.

WRX??? Not offered here in 95. either not a 95, or not a wrx Recall on a 10 year old car???? We should all know about this, but I haven't heard anything about it. What is the source? Remove the drivers, or better the trunk(less worn) lock and have a key made to match it's tumblers. Have the new cylindered keyed to match.

Just to rule it out, did you make sure to place the cam sprockets on the correct side each? The drivers side has tabs for the CAM sensor on the back side of it. Also, this is originally a Turbo car? using Turbo ECU and harness? If not the CAM and Crank senor wires are switched which each other at the ECU. Turbo the Cam sensor goes to Pin 1+2(shield pin 3) of the ECU, Crank to 4+5(shield pin 6) Non-turbo body harness and ECU would be reversed Just a curiousity, it may not be relevant to you're trouble. Can you get it to start in D-check(green test connectors) mode? Have you checked the injectors with a test( or *noid*) light?

You could use an EA82 carb manifold.

I don't know if 09 will be the same, but Foresters are alot shorter. Back seat folded, and the gate jut behind the front seat will be fine. But back seat up would be tight ride for the doggies.

use a cheapo test light probe. Connect the clipped lead to the +POS side of the battery. Then use the pointed end to probe the negative wire on the injector. tart car and Watch for the bulb to pulse.

Try a 95 Blazer with a 4.3:dead:

Reviews of those kits have been good. All EA82 use the same belts. SOHC is correct. 1 belt per Cam x 1 Cam per head x 2 head per motor = 2 belts

True true. They are the slow air control and main air control. I should have said bypassed with a *T* fitting, connected to the air cleaner. Like this.

Well, crap, you have a feedback carb. that explains some of it. You didn't have that thing to begin with. YOu could try to diagno using the ECU. Do you have a CEL? Any codes on the LED? Connect the test connectors and see if you get any.