Gloyale

It's called division 94/13 = 7.23 Yikes, that is low Is that the real ratio? I can't imagine a 94 tooth ring gear. It'd be 3 feet in diameter

+1 The main power wire for the power window runs under the carpet. Below the passenger side seat, there is a crimped junction where the 12v for each window splits and goes out. If you're carpet is wet alot, that crimp connection can get very corroded. This causes alot of resitance in the wire, sometimes grounding the wire entirely and blowing the Circuit breaker (also under the seat). Other times the resistance just slows it down. Other times the ground wire for the control unit is corroded. It's a ring connector bolted to the body at the PW control unit.

This is the biggest issue. You will need to run new speaker wire for the front speakers. You don't need to run wire all the way to the doors, just to the kickpanel area on both sides. Remove the kickpanels, and you will find a pink 2 pole connector, one on each side. The blue wire are the Negative, white or yellow is positive. Run you're new speaker wire to these connectors.

Milling the head is irrelavant to the rocker damage. What else did you do to address valve problem? Did you replace that valve + guide? Or at least check the guide? What about the Camshaft? was there damage to that lobe? I hope it's ok for ya, but seems like it needed more valve issues addressed. That may be why it still running poorly.

That's great, but almost nothing for snow or traction. Also try finding *H* rated 185/70/13s. Almost impossible, and expensive. If you have an EA82 Turbo, alot of places will insist on only installing *H* rated, a that was the factory spec tire. Thank to the Firestone/Ford lawsuit. So if you have a turbo, put it on blocks, and have you're buddy with a pick up drive you down with the wheels and tires to get them mounted. Don't mention *turbo* if they ask about the vehichle they are going onto. I predict within 3-5 year the selection gets even slimmer to non-existant.

175-80 13 won't rub at all. Even on 2wd. That' a nice size, but again becoming obsolete 195 or 205 /60/14 or 215/55/14 will fit easily. My reasons for running 14s is the better availability of good snow and traction tires. there is almost nothing for 13s. And what tires are available are 155/80/13 or 175/70/13(wimpy:rolleyes: :-\ ). Almost nothing for 185/70/13 or any bigger. And once you get 2 or 3 inches of lift, you can run 27x8.50x14

This is the only confusing part. Don't Bajas have a seperate amber Turn signal? a crossed filament or improper bulb in the brakes should not affect the Turnsignal?? Is you're Baja wired for a trailer? Possibly a diode in the convereter box for the trailer has failed???

+1 Someone has installed a ingle pole bulb, or the bulb has crossed filaments

I do not believe this is correct. 93-01 Impreza and 90-99 Legacy share the same suspenion/Chassis. By extension early Forresters should also be the same. Also to swap onto a first gen Legacy 90-91, the rear tophats and spring from the 90,91 need to be reused. They are tapered, so the OB tops are too big, and use a different bolt pattern.

Gear ratios??? You need to make sure you're new trans will match the old rear diff Or swap rear diff with the one from the donor car.

96 EJ22 should still have dual exhaust ports. 97+ = single port

The four extra holes have nothing to do with the starter. The second starter bolt is on the bell for the Tranmission. I believe you would need to swap the harness and sensors from the Forrester motor(ej25) onto the EJ22 manifold. You may also need to swap the drivers side camshaft pulley as well. I believe the tabs on the pulley that trigger the Cam sensor are different between the 2 engines.

You will always have more in a car than it's worth. The guy who drive it off the lot brand new has "more in it" than it's worth when he drives it off the lot. I don't understand thoe who think that the money they spend on the car is what it's worth. It doesn't work that way, as you use the car, you must pay for the cost of keeping it operating. Think of it as renting the car from yourself. The more time you drive it, or just own it in some cases, the more rent you have to pay for it's use. The only way to make money off a car is to buy it at a rediculously low price, fix the problems yourself, and sell it right away Otherwise, it will depreciate from time and use. And you will inevitably have to pay "the rent"

Please please please picture of the front subframe. I've thought of doing that, but I'd love to see some pics.

no

Just picked up on this thread. I'd love to come along! I might need some new tires first. My 27x8.50 Firestone A/Ts are suckage for mud. I want Wildcats. My buddy might want to bring his lifted 91 Legacy. PM me details please.

Do you really need them? Is it that impossible to see through the hole on the bellhousing to see the flywheel marks?

If there is snow on the road, there is not any problem driving it in AWD. Remove the fuse if it's snowing. Torque bind is only bad for the car on dry and mildly wet pavement. The clutch pack are obviously not siezed or dragging. If they were, the FWD fuse would do nothing. Clutch pack disengagement is passive. The electronics and hydraulics cannot force it to disengage. They can apply force to engage it, and remove those forces, but it must freely, with nothing more than the force of a few small springs,disengage itself when hydraulic pressure is removed(FWD FUSE) It is doing just that when the fuse is inserted so it cannot be a siezed clutchpack, or defective C solenoid. What it can be is a faulty TCU, or faulty sensors I would suspect the speed sensors or throttle position senor. Have a dealership check the TCU fault codes

?????swap works the other way round????? Bells are excactly the same except 4 extra holes on the 99+ 4 bolt was good enough for the motor in it' original application, should work fine. Now making the Throttlebody/IAC/sensors work is another issue. However, I'm pretty sure someone has done it.

I used to do them that way,... 'Til I had a knuckle casting break When I reclamped the pinch bolt. Plus it's harder. I think the strut top is the easiest way. I would recommend that the roll pins be the very first, and very last thing removed and reinstalled. Otherwise you risk hyperextending the inboard axle joint while the knuckle is flopin round.

That is a chart from 1989. Here is the current chart.http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/1200list.html This is the current Threebond chart. It states 1215 to be a Non-solvent type, Deoxime reaction(i.e. anaerobic) reaction. Note the permatex chart lists the "ultra grey 599" as an Oxime reaction. It's not the same stuff. And I could not find any endorsement from subaru for the use of the Ultra grey for Three-bond 1215 applications. I would be;) happy to be proved wrong though, Ultra Grey is 1/4 the price of Three-bond 1215

Notice the part where it say's "cures with exposure to moisture from the air. That right there means it's NOT ANAEROBIC Not too much moisture or air inside the oilpump passages. Especially if one were to finish the job and fire it up without proper curing time. Once coated in oil, it will never cure. Imagining the results(and having seen them), reminds me of a silicon based egg-drop soup. Why would you not listen to Fuji's recommendation here????

I got one at the shop. PM me a shipping address and it' yours. Old time Hardware store. In one of the plastic candy bowls with little knick knacks by the counter.

Subaru Recommends Anaerobic. Period. Any sealant with a tendancy to rip away after the edges cure is bad news in an oil pump. ToyataBond anaerobic works very well, and looks to be excactly like the original sealant once cured. Hard cured and well stuck. Not likely to flake or tear away. My local dealership ussually has a tube to sell. For ome reaon the Subaru Tri-Bond has to be ordered, o I use the Toyota. I've used the Permatex anaerobic on other parts(tranmission/front diff flange)The stuff in the blue tube. It's actually bright clear red, looks like melted twizzler . It seems to work OK, but I won't use it on block halves or oil pumps. $15 tube of Tri-bond or ToyotaBond will do 3 block halves, or like 6 or 7 Oil pumps. So it's not as expensive a the Permatex in the tiny tube.

+1