Gloyale

Thi applies motly to Carbed models. And it isn't that the motor will make any more power. It is that old emmisions sytem develope leaks which cause poor idle, hesitation, and rich/lean mixture in some cases. Eliminating a broken and hard to replace/service part eliminates the problem. And makes the engine run better. Not nessecarily with any more power. Just smoother and more driveable. I myself make every effort to repair and maintain all my vaccum hoses and accesories. But sometimes it just isn't practical. I would not jut start ripping off vac lines to gain power. Won't happen. Besides, with FI, there really aren't many *extranious* vac lines. It pretty much all need to be there. Leave it alone and do a tune-up*. Much better way to make it run nice. *Complete Loyale tune-up: plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter airfilter pcv valve Replacing all Vac hoses is a good idea too

Yes, they hould be unplugged for normal driving. You should only plug them in when etting timing, or checking for codes. You can clear all stored codes by connecting the 2 green and 2 white connectors, running the engine for a min over 2000 rpm, til the CEL blinks.Then shut down and unplug both. That should give you a fresh start. If CEL comes on and stay on, it won't clear because there is a code present. If so, read the code and recheck/repair, then try again.

Yeah, I see it now. Looks like a new spindle and axle is in order. Don't forget the bearing seals as well. The inner one is surely trashed. Might want to replace the bearings while you're at it. Or at least put some new grease in there.

Well, the fix would have been to weld/fill the pits FIRST, then machine it. Totally doable. But that time is past. I don't think it's so terrible that it wouldn't run. I don't think you'd notice any problems at all.......at first. As other said, it could lead to hot spots and blown HG down the road. But my gut says probably not. I've seen worse come out of running engines. Is this you're car? What are you're expectations of it? If this isn't a Hi-Pro build or you're wifes car , you could run it. Perhaps clean the edges up a tad with a file. Looks to be all in the combustion chamber, so the HG mating surfaces should be OK. I bet it would run great for a long a** time. It all depends on perspective, and how long you need to rely on it to last vs. you're wilingness to push the limits. I'd run it just for the hell of it on an offroader. This isn't a rare head though, so seems better to suck it up just get a new one. EDIT: A second look makes me even more sure. I'd run it. It looks a whole lot worse at first glance. A tad lower compression in that cylinder ain't gonna hurt nothing. I would file any very sharp edges though

That's not too bad. I imagined worse. I've got a drivers side taillight for you if you want it. Next time you're in Corvallis, drop by my shop. North of town on hwy 99w. Just south of Lewisburg road, behind "FUTON MAN"

MPFI used black "read connectors" SPFI, like on this loyale, should be white. I remember that on the early SPFI GLs, the test (green)connectors are under the hood, but the "read"(white)connectors are near the ECU. I thought that in 89 or 90 they had changed it so both connectors are under the hood.

2 Green connector, and 2 white connector Connector color, not wire color. They are there. I swear. If they aren't. Look near the ECU.

I don't think the dealer will be pulling the motor for HGs. Too much extra work, especially for a warranty job. They are gonna try to bang it out with minimal time and effort.

I recently had a 99 SOHC 2.5 apart. One thing I noticed was that the HGS were different. One(passenger side) had a coating over the entire surface of both sides of the gasket. the coating was all flaking off in the ring around the tops of the cylinder wall that are in contact with coolant(open deck) I believe this was an original HG. The other one(drivers), had coating only on the part that was actually in contact with metal. The area that was exposed to the water jacket was just metal. Better cause there isn't anything to flak into the waterjacket. I think this side was replaced by the dealer, and is an upgraded style gasket. Where it get's interesting, is that the surfaces of the deck and head where also different. Passenger side deck and head was perfectly smooth, factory surface prep. Driver side had wizz wheel marks all over it. Would a dealer tech do this! It was obviously chewed up. It baffles me that one would replace just one HG, and then to do it poorly. tisk tisk.

^^^^^^ slaps head like Homer^^^^^^ "Doooh!...."

I don't think that's right. I believe you can use either. I don't know what the advantage of Forrester struts on an Outback would be?

Ooooooooooooo.........burn :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Downshifting to 2nd??? I Think you mean 3rd w/o lockup. 2nd gear at 75 mph would be like 8000 rpm.

I'd guess less than 10% of car sales nation wide are on Ebay and Craigslist. Those are bargain sites for Bargain hunters. Most people buy cars from dealers. Sorry, but KBB and NADA are the real deal, used by most of the dealers in the country. Ebay and Craigslist ARE NOT the true measure of retail vehicle value. don't think everyone was getting my point here. I work on these cars. We all do. Most of us are not the people who will go to a dealer or lot and pay retail. BUT MOST PEOPLE DO PAY RETAIL! That is the price that most people have to pay for a car. I want to buy it below retail, and then sell it at the higher, retail price. When you are in the business of fixing and selling cars, that is the price you should go by. Retail. Nothing wrong with that. My other point is that the cars are simply worth more out here in Oregon. No salt= no rust. That and people are used to seeing cars with over 150k miles all the time. There is alot of distance between everything out here, so the miles add up quick. Seriously. Retail for Subarus less than 10 year old out here is $7500+ plus Even 95 and 96's still fetch $4000-6000. There are private seller deals for less occasionally, but even those are high if there is no major damage or issues. So, Does anyone know if that car ever sold???????

Hmmm.....not inspiring confidence here....lol Well, the tranny is assembled and into the GL-Turbo. I used heavy grease on the gears, assembled, spun the pinion shaft(tail still removed), then opened up to check the grease pattern on the teeth. I think I got it decent. We'll see. Adding fluids, and the rear diff today. Then time for a drive. Just a note. The tail sections of the GL trans and the Legacy tran were slightly different. The trans mounts form the GL would not bolt onto the Legacy trans, different spacing of the bolt hole, and a different angle to the mount surface. I had to modify the Legacy mount to fit bolt to the GL crossmember. It was very easy though. Grind off 2 bolts. But the bigger Legacy tail section is a very tight fit through the GL's tunnel.

Good point, he says it' a 86 2dr Hatch. So maybe it is an EA81 Hatch. I inda assummed it was an EA82 At any rate that look for all the world like a 2wd arm. So, TheBush, We need some more info here. What excact car is this? EA81 or EA82?? What's the other side look like?

Sorry to hear that man. That sucks. Good tires are the best defense for wet PNW roads.

That looks like the back of a 2wd control arm. The adjuster bolt for the drum brake is a dead giveaway, only on 2wdsEA82 only, this is an EA81, read on. Perhaps someone replaced that arm at some point? But the strut mount is up high like a 4wd arm? 2wd spindle pounded into the 4wd arm???? IDK Does the other side look the same??? I see a mustache bar, but what about the rest? Driveshaft? Axle on the other side?

If the CEL is on, there is an active code. Plug in only the green connectors and see what you get.

I jut replaced HG in a 91 legacy with 2.2. It happens. And it's excactly the symtoms he's describing. There was no smoking, no oil in water/no water in oil. Was like that for some time. Every week or so, running low of coolant and then overheating(espescially down hill) It got worse eventually, and started really bubbling into the overflow. Replaced HG and no more problems. jverbarg, does it seem like the upper radiator hose is highly presurized when hot and running?? If it is pumped up to where you almost can't squeeze it, you definately have a blown HG.

OK. Here's the NADA listing http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=21&p=1&f=5014&y=1999&m=1212&d=972&c=20&mi=100000&o=80~75~85&vi=52670&z=97330&da=-1&nx=1 There is no way that that car would be as low a 4-5k around here. $7500 plus at a dealership or used car lot here. MAYBE you could get it driect from seller for 5-6k .s I said is before, and I'll say it again. Someone is either the luckiest subaru mechanic/buyer/seller out there. Or there is some excagerating just a tad here.

Well, there absolutely is a difference in the ring and pinions, and the final gearing. I see you're point however,that the overall RPMS would be similar at the same speeds based on the bigger tires. That is excactly what I want. This is going into a GL Turbo with 27x8.50s on it. It originally had a 3.7 final drive. Swapped to the Legacy 3.9. The lower ratio will help me turn my larger tires. I'm not putting this in an SVX. I mentioned it as a reference to the overdriven transfer ratio some 4EAT and old 3AT used.

Well, I don't know about not needing to shim. I suppose if you get lucky and the excact length of both cases is the same, you could get away with it. Also the excact spacing of the pinion shaft centerline to the ringgear is CRITICAL. I would never reassemble a diff without at least rechecking the backlash. All of my experience shows me that it's rare that no adjustment i needed. Every pinion shaft and every diff/ringgear is slightly different, and should have all clearances verified and adjusted. ALWAYS. In this case I am not only changing ratios, I am using the EJ trans with an EA motor. So the Bell from my GL turbo is needed. It's true, I could have swapped the 3.7 pinion shaft from the GL trans, and kept the 3.7 diff in the housing. But I wanted the 3.9 so I left 3.9 Legacy pinion in the legacy trans. I installed the 3.9 diff into the GL(ea82t) bell housing.

You left out the BFH bit before. With a big enough hammer, one can make anything fit. So, it's not as simple as just bolting in. My guess is even with good tops, the untappered springs will be rubbing without some banging.

You mean 23 spline. Not 22. You're talking about using 93,94 Imp. FWD 23 spline cups on EJ or XT6 axles? Why not just use the whole axle? The extra length won't matter unles you are lowering the car. Would actually help with a Lift/ Control Arm/Camber change. And still does anyone know why you could not use the EA balljoint, in the EA control arm bolted into the Legacy/Xt6/Imp knuckle???