Gloyale

thi is too high. The internal Volatage Regulator is going out. Take the Alt in to be tested. That is the worst way to test an Alternator. You will do more harm than good. Fry the Alt, and if you had an ECU, it could be cooked as well. And it doen't address the problem that you're VR, or a diode is going out. Take the Alt in to be tested.

What book? Chiltons? Haynes? Probably wrong or addressing a different model. I don't ever trust them. I don't see that in the subaru FSM. Here i the flow chart for teting injector circuit.

I've owned 3. All were 86s

Reistance to what??? Ground? What you need to do is disconnect the ECU and the injectors, and test the resistance of the injector ground(white w/stripes, not the red ones) wires end to end. So the power supply is good. I believe the ground is the issue. IF it is an injector issue. Not *firing* and not *parking* are 2 different thing. Let's clarify. You said earlier it was not sparking on 1? That would not be associated with the injector circuit. Have you tested the resistance of the #1 spark plug wire? or tried swapping it around to see if the no spark follow it?

The car only has a bit over 100k? Unless it's leaking, I wouldn't touch the pump. I would first try an oil change. Also a 1/4 to a 1/2 quart of ATF in the oil will help free up and pump up the lifters. Do this about 500 miles before an oil change. Really, TOD is VERY common for these cars. Don't let GD scare you either. There is no need to tear down the motor or spend $1000 right now. People have driven subarus for years with this ticking. It' not a very big deal. It can however make the motor lack power and have poor response, so fixing it may help you're problem. I'd add 1/2 quart of Dex/Merc ATF to the oil and run it like that for a few weeks. Then change the oil. I'll bet within a few days the ticking will have stopped. If getting rid of the ticking does not improve power, then I would suggest that the timing belt was installed wrong, a tooth or two off.

The injector are triggered in pairs by the ECU injector 1 and 3 are toghether, signal from pin 51 and 52. The wires come out of the ECU as 2, then a crimp splice toghether until close to the Engine connector. Then there is a crimp connection where the 2 wire seperate again before the main engine connector. You need to find both of those crimp connection. They should be only a short way into the harness from the ECU and engine connector respectively Here is a partial diagrahm showing the splits. It i for 88 GL mpfi, but I believe all you're pins and wire color to be the same. The only thing that might be different is pins on the round engine connector. Wires highlighted in red are White w/ Red stripe. Blue is White w/Blue stripe. After making and posting this I realized I mapped Injectors 3 and 4. 1 and 2 go to pin 49 and 50 of the ECU. Both are white wires until engine connector, through engine connectors at pins 6 and 4. Engine ide, inj #1 wire is White, #2 wire is White w/ Black stripe.

This is why I install pushbuttons. Using a relay still relies on the switch.

I don't agree with this staement. I've never seen a non-turbo EA throw a rod. The exception being dumba**es who decide to put a brick on the gas pedal before they junk it, or those who run it out of oil. But I've had and seen lots of EA82s with 250k+ that I would drive cross country in a heartbeat. Hell, I bought an 86 once with 267k at 7pm in Portland OR. Left at 10 AM the next day and drove it to Kenosha WI. With my girlfriend and son. Only thing I fixed was a HeadLamp fuse. 2 years and a trip back to Oregon later, I sold it to my friend. He regularly takes it snowboarding. It'll turn 300K very soon and is still running great. I'll bet it's TOD, and it seem even wore with a bad muffler. Being an 86, it may not have power steering If it seems solid, any where from $250-400. Almost any running, solid car you can drive away, is worth 250-400 bucks. As low as you can get him. Sounds like a good start on a wheelin rig.

These would be my guess at why from Subaru's perpective. 1. Wheel cylinder are cheaper than Calipers. 2. E-Brake is integral to the drum brake, instead of being a seperate set of additional components. 3. If drums are standard, they can charge more for the "upgrade" to discs.

No. The filter is a mesh screen. I can't imagine it could clog enough to make the trans not function. If you're not ready to do you're D/R swap, just grab another 3at from a GL or Loyale at the Junkyard. You may need to swap rear diffs if the ratios don't match.

I know you knew about RR Skip. I was just telling others. They brew Sam Adams there now??? That is something I did not know. Gotta go to the store:grin:

Actually, none of that stuff is the same. Plus, if he used a Spider intake XT motor(only one worth it) that would add even more complexity. Wait, actually the TPS plug for the SPFI has four pins, like a spider intake (87 1/2+)XT. Ok, so 1 thing. Best bet for that conversion is to get the harness from a 87+ Turbo GL or GL-10 It's an MPFI harness that will fit into the Loyale easily. Or find a rare 85 non-turbo 2wd GL-10 with MPFI. Ditched in 86 for SPFI

sweet!!! FYI, Rolling Rock was purchased by Anheiser Busch about 2 years ago. It's now brewed in giant stainless tanks like everything else. The "glass lined tanks of Old Latrobe" are no more. That bit is still on the bottle, but now has Quotation mark around it, and says "in the tradition of". This means it's just a slogan now, not a statement of fact.

second post after re-read. Can you post a picture of this??? 1/4 inch??? That definatlety does not sound right. Also the wet exhaust port, look inside the exhaust outlet on the bottom of the head. Examine the area where the *wall* in the middle meet the edges. Are there cracks?

They aren't pressed in. They are cast in place. The aluminium of the deck overlaps the top of the sleeve. Perhaps you are seeing this seem? about a 1/16" thick lip of Aluminium above the steel sleeve? Blocks that have been overheated, the sleeve will shift slighty, and leave a lip. In severe cases the sleeve will have actually spun in the block, and will now be egg shaped. Either tear it down for a full rebuild, or throw it back toghether and see how long he goes. That of course is when it's really bad and major. If all we are talking about is the tiniest hair of a seem, and it runs perfectly parrallel to the deck around the top of the cylinder, that is *normal*

This was my 86 GL-10. And it spent the first ten years in Colorado! It was still pretty solid, I would kept drivin it as a beater, but the motor croaked. This was taken the day I sent it to the crusher. Notice it's sitting on the ground.

You may have sticking mechanical advance weights in the disty.

The thing on top of the *gooseneck* is the Auxillary Air valve. Provides air for High idle during warm up. The connector are for a heating element inside. Heats up a bi-metal spring, which closes a rotary valve. It is placed on top of thermostat so the heat of the engine coolant will help close the valve if element fails. 7.5k ohms resistance sounds fine. FSM just says "other than zero or infinite" I thinks Skips second pic is to show clip removal. CTS resistance should be 2-3k ohms cold, 100-500 engine fully warm. I ussually hook the meter up with clip and start car to watch it go down. Should be very steady.

The pins on the body of you're TPS are the Idle Switch contacts: Black is ground Blue w/white stripe is idle switch signal (grounded when throttle closed) The 3 wires in the separate pigtails are the Potentiometer wires: White is power Black is Ground(spliced to idle switch ground wire a few inches up in the harness) Green is Signal volts A standard non-turbo, SPFI, TPS could be wired to all the corresponding contact for use. But it ouputs in a different range, in the opposite manner. MPFI/Turbo ressitance goes from very high(17.8k ohm) closed to low(1.5k ohms) open SPFI goes the other way from low(1k ohm) to high(2.4k ohm) open. Opposite, and a much lower and narrowed scale

Car Quest carrys the best selection of hoses. They have All type of hose in all sizes. some of my favorite of the hardest ones to find include: 5/8 Evap hose:clap: for PCV 5/16 Coolant line. for small coolant lines, I bought 20 feet when I found they had it. 3/4 trans line for EA82 Turbo oil return :clap:

Do you mean verifying valve timing? Relation of Cam to Crank? GD, or any pushrod old schooler guys, how is that checked with engine in car??

Blow through it. it should only pass air one way. Install it so that air can travel toward the engine. No it' not the thermometer. The *thermometer* is a single pole senor that sends signal to the temp gauge. The computer uses a separate sensor to determine engine temp. It is mounted to the side of the Thermostat housing. It has 2 wires and a green connector.sorry, that's for SPFI. It is on the back of intake where Skips picture shows To test it, unplug it and hook a multimeter to the 2 wires. Set it on 10k or 20k ohms. should read 2-3k ohm when cold. start the car and watch the numbers. Resistance should get lower and lower a the temp rises. You will have to witch to the 1k ohm scale at some point. At fully warmed up, should read 200-500 ohms.

The *fuse* mentioned is not actually a fuse. It's just a connector. You'll probably have to drop the fuse panel to see it. Way up under the dash, on the far drivers side i a blue single pole connector taped to the harness. Make sure the 2 ends of it are connected.

It make me sad to think you might junk it. I'm truely sorry for you're loss:( Dibs on the 5 lug bits!!!! Just kidding. Really it is sad. I think you should do one of 2 things 1. Fix the frame rot now, and then keep it outta the salt 2. Decide it' a lot cause, keep driving it as a winter car for a few more years(my 86 GL trubo from wisconsin was WAAAAAAAAAY worse than that when I finally junked) Then for the love of god, when you part it, get everything. Motor, trans, ECU, Harness, *Cybrid* pump, dash, headlights, and of course, suspension

Actually it's a Single Pole/ Double throw. Meaning there is one source voltage(single pole), routed to one of two ways(double throw), depending on the switch position. Double pole/single throw would have 2 seperated circuits(double pole) that are both connected or disconnected at the same time(single throw) Hardtail, Do you have a hand held vacuum pump? You should test the Cable diaphrahm to make sure it holds vacuum. Also, you're light flickering could be a result of the switch on the very rear end of the transmission. If it's on the fritz, the light will flicker or not work, even if you are actually engaged in 4wd. It i esentially as button screwed into the rear of the trans. When the 4wd collar moves to engage gears inside, it pushe the plunger on the button, to indicate 4wd on the dash. You can remove it by simply unscrewing it. should have continuity when it's button is pushed