Gloyale

You will need 4wd trailing arms/brakes/hub. It all pull as one unit. But you will need it. You cannot install the rear axles using the 2wd arms. They could come from any 4wd EA82. I'm not sure, but you may need to move the exhaust a bit too. 2wd they run it right down the middle of the tunnel, since there i no shaft there. Now you need to put a shaft in, gotta move the exhaust.

This is almost right. A few notes Early(85,86)Turbo and Carbed cams are different than later. The early(85,86) Carbed and Turbo cams are the same. Shortest duration Cam made for these. I wouldn't use these. For 87, Carbed engines got the SPFI cam. for 87-1/2, the Turbo engines get a new cam with overall longer duration than old ones, or even the SPFI, but the exhaust valve is closed a bit quicker to keep exhaust pressure up Also, the MPFI, Spider intake, NON-Turbo Cam (87+4cyl XT) has 4 degree longer duration than even the late Turbo Cams. 2 degrees on either end(opening and closing) I would rate the options in this order, best first: 1. 87+ MPFI non turbo XT Cams. 2. SPFI cams 3 87+ MPFI turbo cams Don't bother with the older turbo Cams, they are the same as the early carbed Cams. You really need to set it up and do vacuum and performance tests to figure out which is best.

That hose is supposed to have an aluminum heat shield on it from the factory. Only problem I can see with the exhaust wrap is it's bulky. Could be hard to get the hose into place with the wrap on it..

It woudn't fire at all if those were wrong.

The lower starter bolt is actually a stud, mounted to the trans bellhouing. It does not connect to the engine at all. The starter and that lower nut DO NOT need to be removed. Starter stay bolted in place to the trans by the lower stud.

What is the rear diff ratio? should be on a stick on the rear diff. If it is 3.7, you most likely have the 1.2. Alo you could count the splines on the axle stubs. 23 = *normal* d/r with 1.59 reduction 25=RX d/r with 1.2 ound like a custom order car for sure. RX seats, GL-10 digidash and air suspenion, and RX D/R. cool

Get NGK spark plugs. Or Denso if you have to. DO NOT use champion, autolite, splitfire, or bosch. Get either OEM or NGK wires. Others say magnacore, but I don't see a need.

I think you have a vacuum issue. Hitting you're brakes is causing you're engine to stumble slightly. Anyway. Good luck with the paddle shifters

The adjustable struts on 85,86 EA82s give you nearly 1 1/2 of lift. 2 inch isn't that much more.

Not until the 4eat could any subaru kick in the 4wd *automatically* *Turbo-Traction* just means a turbo car with 4wd. I think it is indeed an RX, or a GL optioned with all the RX gear. If he had a gl-10, it would have digidash, trip computer, and a single range pushbutton trans.

The Dual Range trans makes it a good bet this is an RX. Wherte the seats checkerboard?

I want to see video of this.

Yeah, the one that goes from the T-stat housing area, under the intake, to the turbo. It's the coolant supply for the turbo.

No. Not if you're already off the gas and coasting. And if it does drop it's because the speed is droppping. The TCU does however know when throttle is fully closed. Throttle fully closed, at lower speed will force Lock-up non-opertaion. So when you go from on the gas to off, lock up is released. I have those schematics, the whole FM actually for every year of EA82. There is no signal sent from the brake to the TCU, at all.TCU on you're car has no connection to the brake what so ever. Only the force of decelleration from them indirectly is *felt* by the trans. Besides, auto transmissions have been working for years without any sensors, switches, or computer. Yeah, it's wired in like stock, and all solenoids function. You may be right that in *D*, the TCU can select any gear it wants. But in my case, I'm not driving the solenoid directly. I'm asking the TCU to do it, and it's electronics want the shifter in second. Which doesn't allow the TCU to select, since the Legacy trans needs to physically be in first for the correct hydraulic passages to have pressure. Additionally, *1st hold* is different than simple first gear. It increases transfer pressure, and I believe holds the Lock-up for engine braking, although all the literature say in 1st range lock-up is inoperative. However *1st hold* is different, I can feel the TQ locked when crawling down steep muddy hills offroad. But I guess the more I read and study the diagrahms, I think it is doable. The key is that the selector needs to be in *D*.

You're probably used to Cast iron blocks. Alloy block + steel dowels = corroded dowels

The only place I've everseen that slogan was reference to the 84 EA81T sedan in the 84 FSM Turbo Supplement.

Interested. Part # and application?

I think that's the 2 nuts he referred too. I presumed the 2 bolts mentioned included the nuts on their ends.

2 bolts and 2 studs is correct. You just need a bit of leverage. Use a pry bar carefully between the 2 sections. As for the power steering. Unbolt the pulley from the pump, then unbolt the pump from it's bracket. Undo the 2 10mm bolt that secure the line ot the engine, and now fold the whole unit and line out of the way while removing the engine.

8 mounting holes on the newer (6 bolt and the 2 bottom 2 studs) Older style was 4 (2 bolts and the 2 bottom studs) 4 of the 8 hole in the newer style are in the same location, so they can be interchanged. The additional bolts are not nessecary. If this didn't work, how do you think the guys running EJ22T block in WRXs bolt them up. Again, there is no starter bolt issue. Lower bolt is mounted to the trans bell. Thi is a 2000 OB tranmision. The arrow points to the back side of the lower starter bolt(stud) in the bellhousing. it's above and inset from the engine mount hole, not circled, but just at the tip of the yellow arrow in photo. The holes circled in blue are the additional engine mounting bolt holes that are not on the older style. The 2 uncircled holes near top and the 2 stud holes(one obscured by hand) at the bottom are where the 4 pre-99 engine bolt holes are.

Once and for all, there is no starter bolt issue. The bottom starter bolt IS NOT the same bolt as the engine to trans bolt. The newer trans are jut like the older ones, the lower starter bolt is actually a stud mounted in the trans bell. The 4 additional engine to trans bolts are jut that, additional.

Advancing the disty improve power to a small degree. But only so far. And if you advance it too far it will overheat and wreck you're engine. set you're timing using a timing light, or you're aking for trouble. That may be the very reason you're running hot right now. Come to think of it, running the wrong timing i a very quick way to detonate a piston. That might be what happened to you're plug. Not if you detonated you're piston from guessing at you're timing. Test it.

I don't think that's true at all. In fact I've specifically read about how and when the TCU uses the TQ lock up enabling engine braking. I don't think the TCU even has a way of knowing that the brake are applied. The older ones I am sure have know way of telling the brake are applied. Try this, drive 45mph in *D*, then drop the shifter into second. You'll feel the engine braking as the TQ locks and engine brakes the car. Not until vehichle speed and rpms lower will the TQ unlock. If you're familiar with the Original GL/XT 4eat, you know that it has D,3,and 2 range on the selector. 1st was selected via a switch. When the lever is in 2, and the switch activated, the TCU electronically activates and hold 1st gear(with locked TQ for engine braking) I installed a Legacy 4eat as a replacement. Wired in and controlled by the GLs TCU, it could not select *1st hold* simply by the switch. I had to modify the shifter to make the lever physically pull the selector valve to *1st* I think the problem is that certain hydraullic passage are inactive depending on the selector valve position. It is possible, Gary says it's been done. But to me it seems that the valve body needs to be set up so that it can facilitate soley electronic gear selection.

in the world of internets, THIS IS YELLING!!!! which I didn't do. Clogged Cat can cut performance, but the answer to that is a new CAT, not simply chopping the old one. Besides, you do not know with any certainty (you have guessed) that you're CAT IS clogged. If the plug was hit, something else major is wrong. Cutting out you're CAT will do nothing to keep that rod from exploding though the block. I am not trying to upset you. But you are here for Subaru advice so we are giving it to you. It obviously isn't what you want to hear, but that doesn't make it bad advice. I'd do a compression test to find out the condition of you're cylinders and then go from there. BTW.....since we have a volunteer Army, I have no sympathy for you're *being yelled at* by drill sargeants. Part of the job, you signed up. I do however have respect, and thank you for service. Welcome to the board. Don't take it personal, we wouldn't be here if we didn't want to help.

There is so much wrong here I don't know were to start. So we'll go in order. 1) Advancing the disty, especially by a whole tooth, is a recipe for trouble. Detonation, overheating, and poor performance most likely. 2)Overheated? and Knocked the plug shut?? you mean there was no gap?? that means that more happened than just an overheat. the piston should never hit the sparkplug, ever. Especially since the plug is a good 3/4 of an inch inside the combustion dome, up away from the top of the piston. Either I am totally misunderstanding you're description, or something else major is wrong. 3) You will need to weld in a bung for the O2 sensor. But honetly, Cutting out the CAT will not yield you any really noticable gains. The idea CATs rob power is mostly a myth, and motly applicable to bigger engine with higher flow demand. Not only that, but removing the CAT is Illegal, Irresponsible, and a big pet peeve of some of us here. I wouldn't go braggin about you're ignorant attempt to *hot rod* you're economy car. Not everyone thinks it's cool.