Gloyale

looks like the knock senor wire. However in an 85 there should be 2 wires, red and green. 87+. has a single red wire.

I guess that' the wrong description. The relay supplies the 12v. If the relay has a short, the bulb will act as a fuse (more like a fusible link actually) and eventually burn out. If it otherwise has too much reistance, from burnt contacts, it lowers the available amperage on that circuit. The bulb tries to draw full power, but doesn't get it. This causes the wire to get hot, and the bulb to operate in an inefficient range, which isn't good for bulb longevity. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I know that poor connection on the HL circuit will blow bulbs.

How is the overall length? 6-8 too short? or just cat in the wrong place?

If if it has an internal short, or has a fried connection, it can cause the bulbs to be overloaded. I'm telling you, water in the light is very common. It can contribute to blown bulb for sure, but Blowing 4 headlight in 2 months means something else is going on. My guesses are the 2 place where there are major connection in this circuit. One is the plug for the bulb, which is easily inspected, and I assume after 4 bulb change something bad would have been noticed. So the other is the HL relay, under the dash, left of the column, attached to a bracket with 4 relays. IIRC the HL relays will be the ones with the blue and black plugs. Don't remeber which is which, but jut turn on the light and unplug one to see which light goes out. Inspect the plug for any signs of heat or corbon.

Ha! Clearfield! No Way. I grew up there! I went to Centre school, over the bridge in Hyde township(?) My Grandmother has lived there her whole life, originally in the east end near Polumbo's meat market. My great grandma ran *Natoli's* restaraunt back in the day. Now grandma is up by the country club in Hyde, and my Aunt is down the street from her.

It is probably seeing the lack of a *C* solenoid as a failed solenoid. You may want to intall a resistor in place of the solenoid. You may want to insert the FWD fuse as well. Might help it deal with the no AWD issue.

All I know is I got an Uppipe form an 86 xt turbo, and it has a larger outlet to turbo than any my the GL turbo uppipes. XT turbo was discontinued after 87. Only JDM (and EDM?) enignes had the O2 in the uppipe.

It's regular right threaded. The problerm i you ued a ratchet. Use a 1/2 drive breaker bar and 22mm socket. If thi is a manual tran vehichle, you can try this. Put it in 4wd, 4th gear, with the e brake on tight. now the enigne i held imobile by the drivetrain. Now you can really reef on that sucker. Put a 4 foot pipe over the breaker bar if you have to. Once it pops, it'll be easy.

I did not see a midpipe for EA82s there other than the 2wd XT one. All the other for *83-89* look like EA81 (hatch and Brat) stuff to me. I'm not sure, but the 2wd XT midpipe look to be right. It has the bend needed to clear the bearing. But it may not clear the driveline. It doe look like it has the right bend though to get in the tunnel beide the driveshaft.

I've heard of JDM engines having the O2 n the crossover pipe. I also know that hear in the US, XT turbos got the larger diameter uppipe. GL and GL-10 turbo had the smaller pipe. I am using an XT uppipe/crosover on GLs new engine.

I'll bet the culprit is the Air Injection Vaccum Valve. Near the Thermostat housing. It develope leaks and stops functioning propperly, cauing rough idle. I remove it on most carbed Vehichle I work on. Ussually helps steady the idle quite a bit. This picture shows it and it's 2 skinny vacuum lines. There are 2 larger lines not shown, that hook to the top of the carb. Plug both of the 2 larger ports on the carb, and the 2 lines shown here, and remove that thing.

The OP in that thread never posted with any resolution. Nothing was proved. I believe his problem a sensor of TCU issue, or is related to a sticking transfer pilot pressure valve or Duty C solenoid. Nip's "verdict" in that thread was speculation, just like mine, not confirmation. As clutches wear, they get thinner. As they get thinner, it takes more pressure to *clamp* them toghether. Eventually they slip. They are engaged hydraulically, when they bind, it's from hydraulic force.(there are rare times that they get *welded*, but then FWD fuse would do nothing.) Most people replace both the clutches and the solenoid at the same time, neither get's ruled out as the cause at the end. my $.02

XTs have a common misfire issue due to corrosion of a splice connection in the harness. specifically the wires for the injectors, since they are in pairs. Is it possible that there is a splice somewhere in the harness that is corroded, and causing this? Could someone post a Diagrahm for the ECU/ENGINE wiring to see if there are any splices in the Injector wires shown?

I've got one. y-pipe, center section, and muffler. Already off the car. The muffler on it is a crappy aftermarket, but the rest of the system is original. Want to "borrow" it? Just drive down here to Corvallis and get it. PM me for Phone # and directions

Do you mean *line* pressure solenoid? There is no such thing as the "high pressure" solenoid. Check the connector at the top/front of the trans. There may have been a wire damaged in the swap

This is the quote from that thread, where the OP decribes the trouble. In his case, there was also a noticable delay, meaning he has worn clutch pack. Only after he get's some lip, does the back kick in, thne it won;t disengage. It' a little different issue. In his case the TCU was trying to compensate for worn clutches by keeping the transfer pressure high. But if you read his last post in the thread, he really was having more of a delay issue getting the AWD to work, than a Torque Bind issue. Backing up while turning will produce some binding, the test is whether it releases if you keep going around the turn.

This can be true. However, here in Oregon, I've seen and had many GLs with water in the headlight. Some so bad, a visible waterline sloshes around. And still, those Headlights don't blow 4 bulb in 2 months. Seperating the glass from the Housing is more involved than simply removing those clips. It is bonded tightly with adhesive. IIRC, baking them at 200 degree in the oven will soften the glue for removal. However I doubt that is nessecary. I think you need to check the Headlight relay under the dash.

This post is backwords. If the binding subsides with the use of the FWD fuse, the Clutches are functioning normally, and not siezed. The trouble would then seem to lie outside of the AWD clutches. Perhaps in a *data* issue, meaning the TCU is deciding for whatever reason (TPS signal, Speed sensor, etc.) to engage the AWD too much. If the binding persists, even with the insertion of the FWD fuse, it means the problem certainly is with the AWD clutch. The two main things that can happen: 1. Failed C solenoid or C solenoid wire. 2. Seized clutch pack

Makes sense, in 1st and Reverse ranges, the AWD transfer is increased. If you were to keep backing up and turning it should sense the bind and release abit. But in Reverse the AWD is at max, almost locked. And to clarify The OP has never stated that the AT Temp light has flashed, it was brought up in reference to pulling codes. I think he just needs a tranny flush.

Whoa!!!!! Slow down a minute. The flasher will blink fast when one bulb is out or not working from poor ground, etc.. So that's easy. The headlight blowing out sounds like the relay may be shorted. Or the other thing it could be is the connector to the bulb itself. You're not using high intensity bulbs are you? Those can overload the stock wiring.

Here is a few videos. Not the best, but just a mild day out with the family. It's the downhill run, so it's super easy. Here is some other sections of the same trail. And before anyone says anything, I know that my GL Turbo has bad rod knock. Waiting for this motor to croak before the new one goes in.

Pull them using just the 2 black connectors hooked toghether. This is *read* mode. That is the read mode that outputs old codes. And is very useful for tracking down intermittent or connection troubles. You were probably using U-check:neither connected, normal driving mode, outputs code only while Check engine light is on or D-check: green connectors, puts ECU into a diagnostic mode to look for current trouble. OUtputs current trouble but not stored codes. Use clear memory mode to clear codes. hook both Greens and both blacks toghether, depress throttle, start car and run it for 40 seconds over 2000 rpm, until CEL blinks to erase all codes. If CEL does not blink, but remains lit, you have current code active. Check LED for code.

I just got brought a 2000 OB throwing codes for 3+4 mysteriously. It's an Automatic:confused: I will be curious to see the end of this thread

Sometimes $20 for a washer is hard to spend too. Always recommended, but sometimes not economic.

Probably you're car is fine. I'll ask again though, how many miles though? The combination of an open deck and the early headgasket design makes the gasket material flake off. The engine block side is coated entirely with the surface coating. The coolant swells and bubbles this film and since the whole circle around the cylinder is continuous it eventually starts peeling and bubbling off. This is probably the black gunky pieces you are seeing. Like black floating globs of gunk, like some evil eggdrop soup, right? The new headgaskets only have the surface coating on the areas that contact the block. The area that is adjacent to the *open* spaces of the deck are uncoated, and metallic, hence no flaking. What I would do, is keep a close eye on coolant level and temperature for a while. Carry 2 gallons of 50/50 antifreeze in crate in the back. A few progressively longer highway trips should reveal any problems. If nothing abnormal happens then just keep driving. Watch for any bubblinig or changing of fluid level in the overflow for several weeks. There should be neither. Since it is a 2.5, even if it IS fine now, it could blow in the future. So, do the headgasket change yourself when you have time and money, and the weather is warm. But do it preemptively. Have you're heads resurfaced and use Brand new Subaru HGs.