Gloyale

A good tune up. spark plugs + wires(NGK or OEM only) Air filter, pcv valve. That' about all without modification Good dex/merc III fluid is fine. Synthetic is better, but not nessecary at all. Look in you're centrer console lid. There is a groove that should have a hex haped tool in it. This tool is to manually retract the seatbelt. If you pull the plastic panel off of the *B* pillar, you can see the whole seatbelt motor assembly. Motor is down at the bottom, near the floor. In the center of it is a spot for that hex tool to go. You can use it to manually wind up the cable to it's "closed" position. Once you get it retracted, disconnect the 3 wire plug that hooks to the motor. That will prevent it from trying to run forward and getting stuck again next time the door is opened. Now it is locked in place, you're pasenger can use the buckle, or simply loop it over their head. The Seatbelt light will flash on the dash. So a square of electrical tape will be needed to *fix* that.

Except you're car doesn't have and doesn't really use an NSS. In fact calling it a nuetral *safety* switch is a misnomer. It is the Clutch switch that is used for the *Safety* lockout for starting. The Neutral switch is on the trans. The ECU uses it to know when the car is in neutral to provide gas for idle at throttle closed.(throttle closed in gear, coasting is assumed,no gas is injected) Not trying to naysay, but I think you are totally on the wrong track. You don't have a Nuetral switch that effects engine idle. And sounds like you tested the Gear indicator switches and they are working.

27x8.5 14s on my GL. Cost: 1 clutch change for a board member 1 1/2 inch of lift from 2wd struts rears, and adjustable fronts cranked up. Cost: $100 for new struts generous wheel well trimming:cool: Cost: 1 $4 Sawsall blade 11 inches of rear diff clearance: Priceless

I'd say try a wet coast Wrecker. Perhaps SSK(Subaru,Suzuki, Kia) in Rancho Cordova? Tony there will usually try to fill strange requests. Which a set of dust shields would be. I can't imagine really NEEDING to replace them. But if you want rust free ones, order from the west coast.

The trade off, at least in my town, i the competence of the employees. The NAPA here is a hub store. It' been here for years and years, and alot of the employees have been there that whole time. Lot's of very knowledgable, skilled good ole boys. Autozone on the other hand has a handful of Burger King rejects younger than most of my Subarus. they don't know **t about cars, especially old ones. And they can't find s**t unless it's in there computer by year and make. I'll stick to NAPA, at least they are professional. If I have an Issue with there parts, they take care of it. And usually they can offer me a substitute though a different source.

It is: IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION (FAIL SAFE) What do you think control the idle? The Idle Air Control Vavle (IAC)!!! It is not the only possibility, but a good place to start. Perhaps it has a loose hose? Loose connection? You can't just dismiss it without checking it.

Actually that is all it does, is complete contact for each position. Now some of the positions(P/N) are wired in to the ECU and Cruise, etc..., but just as signal. The ECU sees voltage at a certain pins(when the light for that gear is illuminated) and interpruts it. The switch itself is nothing but simple sets of contacts. Splitting hairs I guess. I just wanted to point out that this part doesn't have *logic* or any computing function. One could test if a poor connection in the switch was culprit by simply using jumper wires to simulate the switch being closed for a given circuit (P, N, D, etc...)

AAA members get 10%. I how my card every single time I go in for anything. "That'll be $.10 cents for this nut." "oh actually I'm a AAA member" "Very good sir, .09 cents it is"

You can just flop the AC compressor out of the way. I hope you plan on installing a new T-Belt a well a servicing the pump. I personally would not leave the covers off if you plan in being in any kind of deep snow or mud.

That function is built into the gear selector indicator. Actually a Park/Nuetral safety switch. The ECU just uses the signal for the P and N lights. I don't think it's failing would cause an idle issue on an automatic. I would think it's a a problem with the IAC

You don't have a 4eat in your GL. You have a 3AT. 4EAT only came in XTs and Turbo GL/RX/Loyale. 4EAT needs computer and a TP signal from the engine to run right. You said missing rear axles and driveshaft? Are you sure you have a 4wd trans in there? The front half of the driveshaft would need to be there till or all the trans fluid would be leaking out. If there is no driveshaft there, look at the rear of the trans. Is there an Output?

Totaly depend on what size tire you put on the 14in rim. Unless you mean a 14in diameter tire, in which case that will definately fit, might lose a little clearance

Jut drive out the roll pins to let the axle slide on the stubs. Then you can jack up the trans.

Look for vacuum leaks. If there is one, the ECU may not be able to get the idle to steady using the IAC. This could throw the code. Altough my first thought i just check all the connectors and wiring, and test the IAC. Hoofbeats ussually mean horses, not Zebras.

Nope, All EA Subaru ECUs are under the column. XTs are in the trunk. EJs are next to it. If you're 83 is 4wd, and not from California, you should not have a computer. Plus you looked and none was there. I really think this is a Disty issue. The pickup unit(pick up coil) in the disty burns out once warm, stops pulsing the neg side of coil, car dies. Coil is another possible culprit but they ussually sputter, not turn off *like a switch* as you describe.

The pecific #s often designate changes to the programming to compenste for different wieghts, transmissions, tire sizes, etc... for different applications. But in the end, if all the senors and solenoids hook up to the same pins, these ECU can run any EJ engine. It just won't be *exactly* tuned for that application. For testing purposes, I think it's worked to rule out the ECU. I think perhaps the injector Dropping Resitor i the problem?? or part of it? On a side note. You may need to use the Forrester Trans. IDK, but I think some of the solenoids in the 4EAT where changed from the earlier. Plus I would think the taller 3.9 gear would hurt the Forresters torque and crawling abilities. I suppose if you really wanted the Legacy trans, you could just swap in the valve body w/solenoid and wiring from the Forrester to the Legacy tran.

How did that get damaged in the accident?

Universal will work fine if you do a good solder job. OEM in this case will be the same Bosch sensor with a connector on it. Do you want to pay them $50 for the connector?

Nylon drive gear on the differential is buggered.

Save the trouble and get an OEM one. First, you shouldn't be able to see under the boot. Good ones(OEM) the boot will be clipped down and sealed. And I assure you you will be hearing clicking and clacking from that balljoint within 10k miles. OEM balljoints are about $40. Double the cost of aftermarket, but it'll last 10x longer.

They are all in the same place, and the only differences are in the connectors. BTW Aircraft Engineer, the torque spec is 23 NM, that's 17ft/lbs, not 20. I've never had an issue with installing them *snug* with a 3/8 ratchet. I have a well calibrated wrist:cool:

I had a Ford Festiva that did the excact same thing. I went crazy trying to figure out the Feedback carb setup. Turned out to be the Distributor. I hooked up a test light to the negative side of the coil, and watched it pulse with the spark as it ran. I watched as the pulse stopped EXCACTLY in time with the engine dying. Since the Pulse is generated by the disty, I figured it must be the prob. I let it cool off, started it, and while it was running, tapped on the disty with a big wrench. Died instantly. Replaced disty, no more problem. So, While you're car is running, try tapping on the distributor with a wrench. If it kills it, you likely have your culprit. Even if tapping doesn't kill it, it seems like a disty issue.

That is a really good idea actually. Actually removing the HLA and cleaning the passages behind them is good. I often find tiny, tiny, pieces of debris stuck in there, which eventually blocks the pinhole that supplies each HLA with oil.

Thi i *torque bind*, but in thi case it's normal. When in Reverse, the AWD transfer pressure is increased to max, cauing binding in turns. As you said, when you hit the gas, it senses the resistance and *turn* and releases a bit to allow the turn. Believe it or not, this is likely an axle issue. Do either have torn boots? have either of them been replaced recently? At any rate, I would buy OEM Subaru axles only, or you may have the vibration after the new shafts too.

Assuming you've checked all you're hose carefully, you may have a cracked head. One way to tell is to remove the Crossover pipe, and look up inside the exhaust port of the heads. This i what you're looking for