Gloyale

Why?? You're not getting the point, you DEFINATELY need a Timing belt. So you SHOULD replace the water pump, whether it is the cause of you're leak or not. If you're tearing down to do a headgasket, you'd probably be doing timing belts and water pump as well. Meaning, you may be doing extra labor, but not spending*extra*money. So you've got nothing to lose putting a new belt and pump in. If it turn's out to need a headgasket, you've already done the pump and the new belts will just get reinstalled.

60/40 split applies to 4EAT automatics. WRX with DCCD i the only variable split manual.

Man, I hope that's a typo. I agree with GD, you need to spend alot more time reading and learning and less time daydreaming. You clearly are not experienced enough yet to do this swap. You are also not listening about the WRX/STI/Turbo issue. It is POINTLESS to use a STI/WRX motor without the turbo. Get a regular, non-turbo motor, either 2.2 or 2.5. Spend time reading about the swap in the USRM and other posts. This is all said in the spirit of helping you have a better ubaru, so pleae don't be offended, or feel like were pissing on you're applejacks.

You have air in them. rebleed LF, RR, RF, LR

Well if you're pump wasn' t bad before it is now from running straight water. If you need to replace the T-belt, you might as well replace the water pump too. Doesn't matter if you think it's good or not. You're already in there, so you might as well do it now.

I agree. Boxer love the high rpms. And they hate being "bogged" or "lugged" 3500 @ 80 is fine. BTW, you should low down if you really want better milage. changing ratio won't do half as much a driving 65 or 70 instead of 80

I think he is just using the springs? Is this correct disco???

Kinetic Sculpture Races usually have a road (and sometime off-road) portion as well. The idea is that all the vehichles are human powered. On land the pedals, chains, and gears probably worked fine to drive. Many Kinetic sculptures use pontoon and paddles for the waterway portion of the race, as dual mode, peddle powered propulsion would be more complex to engineer.

Unbolt the control arm pivot bolt and the sway bar bracket. You should now be able to move it around more and get more flex. 2 inches should be fine without blocks, although you're camber is going to be crazy positive \---/

I don't think there i alot of "rebuiling" going on anymore. Mot of the aftermarket axles for subaru I've seen are *new* mostly made in china. That's the problem, the quality of the new parts is terrible. The cages in particular are poorly cast, and roughly machined. OEM Subaru cage are very high quality casting and machined like a swiss watch. Japanee Vs. Chinese is no contest. Japanese Quality higher by ten fold.. Rebooting original Subaru joints would be better than made in china crap. That said I've had better luck with Napa aftermarkets than Autozone. Only one time for me did a Napa axle cause trouble out of the box.

Well, there are lot's of ways. I ussually try to press them in by hand first. Sometimes they'll go all the way by hand. Even if it doesn't go fully, it works well to start it most of the time. Then I use a 3/8 drive socket extension, and carefully tap around the edge of the seal until it's evenly and completely seated all around. Using a punch with a flat tip would work also, but I like the socket extension because of the rounded shoulder on the tip, it doesn't ever try to tear the rubber seal like the sharper edge of a punch.

The inboard seal is pretty easy to replace while the axle is out. Pry it from the inside of the knuckle, and punch the new one in. I'd change it if there is any question, it's cheap. Outboard seal has to be installed when the hub is pressed. As for the rust, I'd get small (toothbrush size) wire brush, and some WD-40 and spray and scrub all the rust out of the inner portion of the hub.

It would be to use in conjunction with Leg/Imp/Frstr supenion part for the front, which are 5 lug. Also Offroad application 4x100 is way to wimpy, that' why subaru went 4x140 in the first place, the wide spacing takes some strain off the studs. Also it is nice to use all Subaru stuff including wheels, like from a WRX, Forrester or Legacy which are 5 lug

Mazda B2200 rims come in 14 and 15 in, and have a very nice offset for a subie. Izuzu Trooper wheel also have a nice offset. Nissan or Toyota rim will tick out a hair more. Chevy rims will stick out like crazy.

The center Diff of these trans is a completely open diff, like any other. This allows for the Fulltime AWD by allowing some differnece in speed of each axle. The Diff lock locks the CENTER differential. Now it i jut like being in 4wd on the old cars, the center diff is now fully locked and does not allow any difference front v. rear It is for use in now,mud,ice,etc..... Without it, when any one wheel lost traction, no other wheels would get power. It locks the center diff so that each (front v. rear)axle gets power always. Like the 4wd of the old P/T boxes, you should not use it on pavement.

The shifting is not determined solely by electronics. I don't think it would work. I could not get my Legacy 4eat to hold first gear solely by electronics(like the old GL TURBO with 1st hold) Would not grab 1st and hold it until I modified the shifter to actually pull the cable down to 1st. I think the valve body could be modified to the point were all shifting is done elctronically, but not stock. As it is stock it requires hydraulic passages to be physically switched via the gear selector valve. If it didn't, it would be *drive by wire* with an electronic shifter, no cable required. Also, having an unlocked TQ would completely defeat the reason for selecting the gear manually, Engine Braking. The trans does a fine job of downhifting on it's own to accelerate. It's deceleration that requires the driver to select the gear, and with an unlocked TQ you would not have any engine braking at all. Dangerous

Agreed, got 1 of there new axles for a 2000 OB. Intalled it and it caued idle vibration when topped in gear(automatic) Replaced with a econd EMPI and it did the same thing. Reboot you're Original axle or get brand new Subaru OEM.

Dollar to donuts the rotor screw has come out. The rotor is free to spin wherever on top of the disty shaft. Totally Random Timing FTL! Pull the cap and replace the screw. You're choice if you want to do it before or after lowballing her for the car.

[quote name=aircraft engineer No need to play the brake, clutch, (emergency brake) shuffle where you could use THREE feet if you had them[/quote] Subaru has Hill holder. No need for that stuff even with Manuals

No you don't. In fact, the proceedure for tspliting the block is to remove the pistons first. The main *caps* in the block prevent the pistons from dropping though the bottom of the cylinder. Only other way to split a block with pistons in place is to fanangle the bolts off of the rod caps for both pistons on one side, PITA, requires 12mm swivel socket. So no, no need to split the block for pistons. Just remove the wrist pin plugs, then access the wrist pins and remove them. The pistons will then pop right out of the top, rod stays in place in the block. Try not to let the rods knock around inside the cylinder while swapping pistons.

Huh????? you should still get some heat. Otherwise I suspect there is a problem.

I got a new axle through a local dealer, but not sold as *Subaru* new. EMPI(china) It's a brand they offer and use as a lower cost alternative for non-warranty repair. For a 2000 Outback Wagon, automatic. Sounded good, right?EMPI axle caused the infamous *stopped in D or R* idle vibration. Vibration was immediately noticable and very loud shaking of car when stopped(waiting for a light) in drive or park. It was predictable and constant, meaning always. I was able to observe the inboard joint *twist* under load by looking under the car while an assistant placed car in gear. Shakin was audible, however I could not *see* or feel the actual vibration directly in the axle. A second replacement EMPI axle was installed and yielded the same result. No other work of any kind was performed on the car....... the hood was literally not even opened. Rebooted original Subaru axle and reinstalled and the vibration was gone. I will only recommend the rebooting of original axles, or the purchase of *NEW SUBARU OEM* axles for customers. I won't install other brands anymore, espescially not chinese ones. Perhaps I might test a set of MWE on my own car and see how they do.

That actually might be crazy enough to work. The input shaft of the trans is pretty high in the case. YOu could eliminate alot of it. The drive pinion end would be exposed, Perhaps you could drive the T-case off of the drive pinion? Kinda backwards though. Finding the proper unit would be tough. But then where would you're new front diff go???

According to their site, they do lower the rear of the diff 1 inch. I think blocks between the mustache bar mounts and the body.

I completely agree. EJ swaps are great for Offroad or Performance. But there is no reason to do a swap for a DD. The EA82 is a dependable motor. It get's a terrible wrap around here. But there is no reason it can't be reliable. The majority of the problems with them are from high miles with poor maintainance. Even the EA82Ts can serve as DDs wonderfully if cared for. Mine has been my DD for 3 years now. With a half rump roast bottom end and big crack between the valves. Perhaps I am to be proclaimed the new greatest EA82 lover? And Crazy?