Gloyale

I don't. I hate power gizmos.

Other than being REALLY messy, It's not that hard. The hardest part is setting the backlash for the R+P. I haven't finished this yet(waiting for stub shaft seals) But unbolting the bellhousing and swapping diffs is easy. You could do that part and take it to a shop to adjust the backlash if you were worried. I may end up having a hop double check mine before it goes back in. If you have a shop do the whole thing, I would go the extra mile and swap pinion to keep the 3.7. I actually will benefit from the 3.9 gearing for my bigger tires.

Nice touch

It was a no go for me. I had to swap the 3.9 diff from the EJ into my EA bellhousing/case. Different ring and pinions. I suppose if one wanted to keep the 3.7, you COULD have swapp the pinion shafts to keep the 3.7. that way the 3.7 diff could stay in the EA housing but you would have to get proper shims for the Pinion shaft, unless you got real lucky and it just fit perfect.

Sweet, that's just like the one my mom has. Hopefully she'll be *upgrading* soon and I'll get it:grin:

And then you might have 5 psi at idle! LOL Seriously, this sounds pretty normal. If you've got less than 30 psi at cruising speed(3-4K rpm) Then you might actually have low pressure. Sometimes it is just the sender. Sometimes it's the pump. But, sadly, The problem is not alway the pump or the sender. I've replaced good looking pumps and senders with brand new, and still had low pressure. When this is the case I think it's from worn main bearings. When the journals wear, it makes it easier for the oil to squeeze out, lowering overall pressure. eventually the mains may get bad and develope knock or crank walk(you'll start going through rear main seals like candy). But that is a worst case scenario. Don't let me scare you though. If you're pressure come up with RPMs and you aren't hearing strange noies, don't worry. But good job noticing, and keep watching it. If it ever wwon't come up with RPMs somethings wrong.

Wait, you converted to SPFI. Plug the ports on the head and ditch it.

Ok. Update. I counted today and as I originally suspected: EA82 turbo 4EAT number of teeth ring/pinion = 37/10=3.7 EJ22 (legacy) 4EAT number of teeth ring/pinion = 39/10 =3.9 These numbers match the rear diffs for the respective cars. So it appears for at least these 2 models of 4EATs, The transfer ratio (or 1st reduction ratio a the FSM term it) is 1:1.

Ok. Update. I counted today and as I originally suspected: EA82 number of teeth ring/pinion = 37/10=3.7 EJ22 (legacy) number of teeth ring/pinion = 39/10 =3.9 These numbers match the rear diffs for the respective cars. So it appears for at least these 2 models of 4EATs, The transfer ratio (or 1st reduction ratio a the FSM term it) is 1:1.

Just get some outback struts. Swap you're springs on and there you go. 2 1/2 inches. works great

It adds a bit more than that. It all depends though. EJ18,22, I'll do in the car all day. EJ25 I would probably pull. Old EA82s I'd definately leave in he car. I've never done anything older

Quick ? about 4EAT tranfer gear ratios. Some are 1:1, these type have excactly the same ratio rear diff. others are under or overdriven IIRC SVX had 3.7 front and 3.54 rear??? 3ats commonly had 3.7front/3.9 rear or 3.45front/3.7rear I need to know, for a 93 Legacy 4EAT, with a 3.9 rear end what is the front diff ratio? Does it have other than 1:1 transfer ratio???? Listed in specification chart of the FSM Want to know why, read my thread in the retrofit forum http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84923

The old 3at had a tranfer ratio of .948:1 (37/39). 3.7 front ratio and 3.9 in the rear. If the EJ 4eat is the same, I don't have to swap front diffs. It will already have a 3.7 front diff. I need to go and count teeth. I'll still need to put in the rear 3.9....unless I swap transfer gears.......hmm. But overall, I won't get any more gear reduction:( Damn.edit: yes I do!!!

Did the 4wd indicator light? It's activation switch is mounted on the rear of the transmission, and is pushed, physically by the shift collar for the 4WD. Not just the lever but by the actual shift collor. i.e. ...if the light comnes on, the shift collar has moved, engaged gears, and you should have 4wd. The *loading* you are feeling probably is a vaccum leak You need to figure out which part isn't working. First thing to do is go under the car, Passenger side, rear of trans. The lever for 4wd is on the rear of the trans, connected to a cable. Try moving the lever by hand. If it is sticky, lube it up. Disconnect the cable if you have to. But make sure the lever moves easily. I lived in Wisconsin. Issues with this type of thing are often from corrosion there. After reconnecting cable, next I would try applying vaccum to the lines going to the vaccuum diaphrahm that controls the cable. Using a hand held pump, you should be able to shift in and out of 4wd by applying vac to one line, then the other. If that's all working, but the 4wd doesn't want to engage. Test that the vaccuum supply to the solenoids is good. Test for voltage to each solenoid with the key on, both button position. If all that checks out, then one of the solenoids is simply not functioning. Replace them as a set, easier than seperating them.

hmmm... well I'm going to use the EJ Front diff, and the matching 3.9 rear diff. But are you saying hte diff in the EJ tran may already be 3.7??? with 1.1:1 reduction to use a 3.9 rear? I want to keep the EJ diff mated to it's original pinion shaft. I don't want to have to swap that and deal with spacing issues. Plus 3.9 will help me turn my big tires easier, wihtou throwing off the millage too much. If this works well, I may consider a 4.11 or 4.44 geared box in the future. At this point it seems that the hardest part will be setting backlash. Everything else is typical Subaru=Lego style swap.

Is it a turbo? Only Turbos got disc rears. Fenders will Swap. Marker won't unless you replace the whole headlight assembly.

93 Legacy auto, 301k on original engine and trans. Was mine, now belongs to a friend.

If you have an automatic, activation is hydraulic. And it is not *cancelled* when shut off. there is no fluid pressure so the clutch pack is not under pressure, but as soon a you start again, pressure is applied. No movement require to engage. This is provided the Solenoid energizes, and the clutch pack is not worn out. Manuals DO require movement to engage. It is possible to rig a lever for *direct* activation. But fixing the solenoids, switch or vaccum line that isn't operating is ussually easier than rigging.

I believe it holds 1st electronically, by mean of the shift solenoids A and B. the EJ trans should be capable of doing the same thing. The TCU will try to operate it the same I figure since I'm retaining the TCU from the 89. But I didn't fully dissaemble the valve body to examine if passages are different. Really? I was considering getting the one that Slideshow had up in Olympia, but he returned it. I wanted to do a five speed shop, but getting the car up and running with on hand parts sounded good. I also don't have money for Clutch, pedals, cable, driveshaft, and depending on what trans I used, axles. I was and still am considering a 23 spline, 3.9 D/R. You're 3.7 would match my diff and axles though......hmmm.... Perhaps I could get the 5peed from you, and intstall it when I put the full rebuilt motor with Spider intake in. I have had it sitting around for month but no time. I have to come in to J+Ps tommorow to get TQ seals. Do you work tommorow?

So my 89 GL turbo wagon decided the 4eat was done. 3.7 ratio and 27x8.50 tires don't make a good combo I guess. But I have a 3.9 4EAT and rear diff from a 94 Legacy. My plan is to remove trhe bell/diff housing from the EA82 3.7 trans, and use it on the 3.9 EJ trans. Obstacles: 3.9 diff will need swapped into the EA bellhousing. This will help my big tire dillema Different harness. I had hoped to pull the whole harness form the EA trans, and put it in the EJ trans. Unfortunately, all the solenoids have different connectors, so it's not a simple swap. If the connectors weren't so brittle I could repin them to match the GL harness. But as it is, I will just leave the EJ harness and solenoids, and cut and solder the main plug to match the GL's harness. Final question is about the valve body. The EJ trans has one more detent in it than the EA. EA used a button to control 1st hold, were as the EJ has a position for it on the shifter. I'm doing my own research, but does anyone know first hand if the EA's 1st hold button will still function when mated to the EJ trans? Or will I need to use the EJ shifter with all four forward gear positions? GL's TCU cannot make the Legacy Trans shift into "1st Hold" normal function. The shifter must be modified to allow it to travel 1 click further for 1st gear. Additionally, one must first shift to second, press the "1t hold" button and wait until the dash display for it lights, then pull the lever back to the new, modified 1st click. Pics to be posted tommorow.

I've never used a new EA82 bolt. I've never even seen a new EA82 bolt! I've never read anything from Subaru that indicates that these are torque to yield bolts or that they need replaced when servicing. In fact IIRC there is a portion of the FSM that describes inspecting them, for reuse. I agree with Grossgary that to avoid confusion the above info should be removed or edited. BUT..... I'd like to know where to find M11 Cylinder head bolts or studs??? I would like to use a set for my upcoming *medium-performance* EA82t build. But Again, I do not believe it is required to replace bolts, and I believe the OP's problem is from something else.

Which is what makes me think it's not just an Alternator or charging issue. Could be associated, but something else is going on. I'm guesing(really, guessing) but I would look into all the common grounding points. Or perhaps somewhere in the harness(under the carpet) is wet and corroded. I always suspect this when encountering electrical problems that *don't make sense*

Use a M14 Spark plug hole repair tap. IIRC it should be the same threads as the O2 sensor

Keeping some smothering rags and perhaps a fire extingiusher isn't a bad idea. But really, If you've dropped the exhaust you should have tons of room to keep the flame off the car. Oil and grease doesn't burn as much as you may think(although it is flammable for sure) The only places to be VERY VERY VERY careful around are fuel lines and fuel tank. Which ytou shouldn't have to come near for this. Be a little careful, and just heat the bung that the sensor screws into and you'll be fine. Even a small Propane or MAP canister torch will work if you don't have an OXY/ACTYL unit.

What is the nature of the "failure" that leads you to the headgasket diagnosis? Perhaps you are having a different problem, like leaky intake gaskets? Other than that, I would thoroughly inspect the exhaust ports. Pull off the crossover pipe and look up into the ports. Pay careful attention to the portion where the dividing "wall" across the middle meets the sides. There can be hairline cracks in that spot. Good news is they can be repaired by a competent aluminium welder