Gloyale

Check this out. Looks like they weew being pretty timid, but still, the Outback rocked the XC's world

This is more focused on short trip driving around town. Most SPFI EA82s get more like 25 around town.

My 87 FM shows a clutch switch and neutral switch? 88-89 do not? For Automatics, 87 uses the same neutral and p(Clutch) signals. But in 88+ additionally has In gear signal?

Thanks, that good info:) Bell housing? Thinking of reworking an EA81 bellhousing to do the adaptation. Or do I HAVE to find the side mount EA71 bell?

With both hooked toghther it is "clear memory mode". After a short time after startup, it should blink the CEL to indicate cleared codes. After that, unplug and see what comes back. If the CEL stays on in Clear mode, there is still a code active. First without any connectors. No code now, then you are cleared, CEL may or may not come back at some point. If it does, look at the ECU first, while running with the CEL on. If it comes on intermittently, use the white connectors to read stored codes. I would not run the car long with both connected, in clear mode. Running default timing and fuel settings. Plus the CEL will still come back on if a code becomes present.

Thanks for all the thoughts. But yeah, it's gotta be a parts getter. Parts meaning possibly an engine or transmission. Wagon or Flatbed required. Plus I probably LOVE the EA82 cars more than all others hate it(hence my handle). So it will be cool (to me) to rock the turd brown, 2wd, neutered, chopped Sedan/Truck at 35 to 40+ mpg. Every one will think it's a VW rabbit truck. But does anyone know for sure if spfi can be done for EA71? Seems that it could. But Do the intakes bolt up? or will I have to fab the TB onto the EA71 manifold?

I already have the EA82 sedan, in good running shape. Plus I want a 5spd. Most EA71 and 81s are 4spd. However, 5spd ea71s do exist I think? 1980 GL-5 coupe comes to mind? Damn, I should've bought the one I got offered for $60 bucks.....Damn. Plus I like the extra legroom. And I'll be shaving tons of weight. Cutting off the roof, and basically making a Flatbed work vehichle out of it. Ohh.... Did I foget to mention that???

You've said that twice and it doesn't make sense. You could part it out for an EJ swap and sell the whole setup to someone here. Make some money, THEN haul off the carcass for scrap.

I'm considering what many would call the the most pathetic subaru ever. But I think I can make it have really good Mileage. Here is the Combo: 86 EA82 sedan, 2wd 5spd. 1.6 EA71 motor Possible SPFI conversion to the EA71?(which begs the question, will this work?) I have all the parts sitting around. I'm shooting for 35+ with convservative driving. Thoughs?

I just installed Outback struts on a 91 Legacy. Lifted the car about 2inch, plus the height of bigger tires(205/75/15). I like it. The "lift" blocks would actually lower the crossmembers and diff resulting in less ground clearance(but more room in the wheel wells) And you WILL have to use the A arm mounts and Trailing arm mount from the Outback, as well as the crazy inverted Mustache bar for the snout of the diff. Not worth it. OB struts alone give you better off road clearance for less work. A couple notes: 1. Drive the roll pins out of the axles before unbolting the knuckles. Otherwise the DOJ can be hyperextended when you flop the knuckle outward. Make sure the axle is back on the stub, and properly aligned before reasembly. 2. You must use the original(or direct replacement) Legacy springs and tops for the rears. The bolt pattern and centering is different for OB. The springs also need the taper to clear the body, the wide OB springs won't fit. 3. Brake line are routed through a clip on the strut. My preffered method here is to CAREFULLY grind out a notch that the line can slide through. Grind the new strut the same way. Once you reinstall the little clip, they will hold just the same. Nissan struts use that excact deign from the factory. Or unbolt the lines from the calipers and get brake fluid everywhere and do a bleed when you're done. I guess if you needed to change all you're fluid anyhow:rolleyes: ......... Either way works.

OK, I want to say I'm really happy for for you Connie, glad you have a good dependable NEW! soob A far a styling. Ughh.... I can't agree. It looks like every other MazHondMitsuFocus compact out there now. I think they hired the same stylist that designed the Hyundai Azera Maybe I would think different if I had one.

Not true. the only thing held stationary is the wheels. Torque is still being transmitted to the axles, through the differnetial. Follow me here, it' gonna get murky. So, let's say the drives side axle is replaced with a crummy one. One that has a TINY bit of play in the DOJ(inboard) joint. When torque is trnasmitted through it, it rotate the cup slightly, by the amount of the slop, around the axle, which is held stationary by the brake. So what happens on the other side? Well, it's an open diff. A small rotation in one direction for the drivers side, means a small amount of opposing torque to the pasenger side. But the passenger side has no play, and is held still by the brakes as well. So the torque is returned to the drivers side. It now rotates the cup back the other way(because of the slop or play) again, reversing the torque back to the passenger side, which cannot move, so back to the drivers side. I propose that it is this "bouncing" of torque through the differential that causes the shaking. Exacerbated by the fact that the engine already has a tendency to wobble side to side. Excactly equal length shafts also set up the vibration, as each has equal properties, and potential to affect the other. I think in most FWD cars, this doesn't happen becasue of unequal length shafts, with transverse mounted engines. Tranverse engines don't want to wobble "side to side", they rock fore and aft. Plus the unequal shafts have unequal ability to affect the other. Harmonics is a tricky science. Things that where thought impossible crashed alot of airplanes before they started harmonics testing. And who can forget the Tacoma Narrows bridge flopping like a rubber band in the wind. OK4450, I fully understand you're thinking here. Nothing is rotating=no cause for vibration. I get it. That is very standard and mostly correct thinking. Intuitive Mechanic stuff. But it is just not that cut and dry. There is ALOT of evidence that this DOES happen. It is peculiar to Subaru, but then again, so is the symetrical FWD layout. Oh, BTW, I operate my own Independant Subaru shop.

In theory, you could run them diagonal. One of each type on each axle. The difference side to side can be compensated for by the open differentials at each axle. Then overall, each axle would be rotating the same.

Can you post any pics of how you have the Vac lines plumbed?

EA82T clutch is the same as all 4wd EA82 clutches(8 7/8 in.) Manual trans EA82s are all 5spd. But if his 86 DL sedan is 2wd(which I'm guessing it is) it won't fit. Standard 2wd 5spds use a smaller clutch disc and plate(7 7/8 in.) There where a few TURBO 2wd 5spds, and they use the larger 4wd clutch. Got it? That all said, don't waste you're time installing a used clutch. You're not putting money INTO the car(that would imply that you will get money back, which you never will, ever). You're putting money towards you're own transportation. Paying a fee to get to all the places you go. How much i all that transportion worth? Start taking cabs and it will add up quickly to more than a clutch set. Don't want to go anywhere? Then don't spend the money. Want you're car to take you places for more than the next 2 months? Spend a little money and do the job right. Hell, is you're car a 2wd? I have a brand new clutch set for 2wd I will sell you for $85 plus shipping

I wonder if the custom intake is at fault. Did you do any flow testing? Why did you make a custom intake anyhow? seems to me, that is the one HUGE difference on the engine. How did it run with the stock intake?

So you like using more gas at idle????? I don't get it. But hey, you're car. Good to know you are using the correct screw for idle adjustment. IMO, Correct idle for Manuals is 800 7 wires, but I think it is an 8 pin connector, 1 unused. At any rate that is the one. I've seen that harness get cooked from the turbo before, check it thoroughly for damage, and relocate/shield it as nessecary

However, the already failing switch is still relied upon. It can fail completely at a future point, and then you are stuck wiring a pushbutton to active the relay. No relay is utilized for the factory switch, on these cars, and even on many newer cars. A direct, momentary contact switch, is excactly what is already being used. With a fused 12v supply, with heavier gauge than stock wiring, there is nothing unproffesional about it. Unfused it is a fire hazard waiting to happen. I hope the OP has a fuse on the power source.

The connector is on the passenger side. In the area under the intake boot. You may want to follow the wires from the disty, along the back of the manifold, over to the connector. Check that the loom is not too close to the turbo, or it could get melted. Idle adjustment should be done first. There is a large screw in a recessed area, on the back corner of the throttle body. Look straight down at it and you'll see it. DON"T ADJUST THE THROTTLE SHAFT STOP SCREW!

3.7 is Higher geared, and has a higher LO range as well. In reference to manual trans, all 3.7 will have 25 spline and all 25 spline are 3.7. Better for offroading would be the 3.9, 1.5 reduction LO, Part time 4wd D/R box. 23 spline. DO NOT USE ANY DIFF THAT DOESN"T MATCH THE TRANS!! To plug and play with you're LSD, you need to use the 25 spline Fulltime 3.7 box. This would give you the benefit of fulltime AWD as well If you want to use the Part time 3.9, 23 spline box, you'll need to swap the LSD carrier into you're 3.9 Diff.

+1 to this. It was night and day the attitudes of the Cooper Dealer and the one I had to return the Daytons too.

Are you 100 % sure, positive, it is not a Legacy??? I have never seen a Loyale with a lockout on the Auto trans lever. Does it say 1,2,D on the shifter? Is there a button for the 4wd where you're thumb sits on the shifter? Is the spare tire over the engine? If the answer to any of these questions is NO, then you have a Legacy. As far as the lights, turn up the dimmer. Legacies it is a collar on the headlight stalk that rotates. Loyales it is a skinny dial on the left side of the dash.

I know with old GL/Loyales, there is a dicrimination feature on the ECU. OYu can ground or unground one pin to put it in CALI or 49 state mode. But the Harness is lacking the EGR temp sensor. Could be installed though. I really don't know what to expect for an OBDII car. My understanding is that it all comes down to paying a fee.

Carquest sells EVAP rated hose in large diameters. 5/8ths IIRC for the PCV hoses. The ones to that go to the ASV boxes will need an adapter cause they flare out to like 3/4 where they meet the box. Although I would ditch that stuff, and just plug the holes in the exhasut ports, and get rid of the boxes and asociated hoses.

THAT"S NOT NUETRAL!!!!! There is specific Literature and I think Even a sticker on the shifter that says "DO NOT LEAVE THE LEVER BETWEEN 2wd +4wd" If you leave the lever there, it is one bounce or bump away from CONNECTING the rear driveline to the front. Excactly the oppostite of what you'd want. Leaving it in 2wd is the best way to ensure the rear gets to freewheel. Just put the GEAR shifter neutral and leave it in 2wd