Gloyale

Maybe you're brakes suck, mine rock. They have alway reliably and capably stopped my roo, trailer and all. Newer soobs are AWD, not FWD. Espescially the manual, which distribute power to all for through a differential full time. The automatic do a good job sending power back as well. So the Drive axle issue you present doesn't apply. Besides, it' all about the trailer as far a weight on the car is concerned. Even a 2000 Lb trailer, should only have 200lbs of tongue load. Otherwie, it's loaded improperly, which isn't the subarus fault. Give me a break. What makes you so ubber qualified to judge what is safe? I'm telling you, oberve safe towing practices and there is no safety concern towing 1500 lbs+ with a Subaru. Tow with caution by all means. And don't think you can tow a Mobile home. Leave extra braking room and make sure the load is balanced right. (although I have, to move it a few hundred feet)But seriously, If you think towing with a Subaru is "unsafe" you're a scaredy cat

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Good, so check that off the list. Next check the pulleys are excactly 180, not a tooth off.

Clear the codes, then drive some more. Check again. ome one may have driven the car without the harne hooked up or something one time, and it could still be on record. Or, you could have a bad connector at the trans, or at the TCU.

They all have two bolt ears, but you really only need one. I guess with 2 it might keep the shaft abit more "true" to the bore, but I doubt it matters. Double check the belt timing for sure, I really think you are one tooth off. Or.... did you remove the 2 crank pulleys? Possibly put them on backwards?

I prefer not having to grab a second lever to shift to 4wd "on the Fly" So, in a real world driving kinda way I prefer the pushbutton single range(I really prefer 4EAT but...). But for wheeling, having lower gears is a plus D/R is better for sure. Especially for bigger tires. That all said, I want to try to custom make both. With a custom D/R setup that Milemaker and I where researching. It would have split 4wd and HI/lo controls(2wd LO). With the stock D/R lever used ONLY to activate HI/LO Range. And the 4wd activated by pushbutton stick from S/R Needed: 1 Full D/R trans. S/R vacuum cable mechnism Shift fork(collar) and lever(the one the cable moves) From the S/R Vacuum solenoids and shifter lever with Pushbutton switch. The D/R shifter fork is linked to the though shaft, going to the HI/LO control. remove the D/R collar, and fit the one from the S/R in it' place. The through shaft will need a notch ground to clear the S/R linkage, and of course the boss in the side of the case would need to be milled to size for the cable actuated lever to go through the box. You could also swap the whole extension case from the S/R and add the though shaft into it from the D/R. But that is a PITA, more stuff to remove, and you till have to drill a hole for the through shaft so no gain there. Hmmm..... Hard to explain but it would be sweet. I hope to do it and post pictures.

Get a timing light on her. You can seriously wreck that motor by guessing the timing, I killed my first soob that way when I was a teenager. After you get a timing light there are 2 other things. You probably have the drivers side belt one tooth off. Which would put the disty off as well. When you adjust so the disty fires at a good time for the drivers side, the passenger side valve timing becomes an issue. Recheck. Don't go by the notches in the cover. The covers warp from heat and time. Align them excactly vertical, even if it's not on the notch.

Espescially an RX. More rare than XT6s or even possibly SVX. One of the real "historic" Subie sports car from the pre WRX era. Dude, I won't call you a lowlife. But for real, don't leave this to get pinned on the previous owner. Especially if they are a board member. If the registration is still in their name, the city/state/whoever towed it will try to hold that person responsible, for you're unwillingness to rent a damn storage unit or fix it.

Bingo. Have you ever heard of the "rev sensor" in these cars? Also called "Fuel pump control unit" Basically it is a relay of sorts. it only sends power to the fuel pump when it sees an ignition pulse(RPM signal from - side of coil) I wonder if somewhere in the harness, that tach wire is severed or corroded. Find the rev sensor and test for an ignition pulse at it' connector.

1)Reading 0 Volts with the ignition on is not a coil problem, it's a fuse or other supply issue. the coil doen't produce voltage, it amplifies it. 2)there SHOULD be nearly full continuity beween + and - terminals. should be 1.2 ohms or so. Measure on the lowest scale of you're meter. 3)resistance between the center terminal and the + or -(secondary reistance) should be around 10,000 ohms or 10k ohms. Measure on a high setting. 4)resistance between the center terminal and coil case or other ground should be over 10M ohms. Virtually infinite. If the coil passes those test, it's probably OK. You blew a fuse somewhere, that's why you have no voltage there now.

I jut replaced an axle that had only about 5000 mile on it. It was bad though. Aftermarket axle for subarus are notoriously not up to the quality level of the OEM. Search and you'll find alot of storys of "new" axles going bad. The fact that the noise is prevalent under throttle makes me think CV. If it is the wheel bearing, you should be able to feel slop when trying to wiggle the wheel. As decribed by EVOthis and TCspeeder

Pin 40 is the ECS lamp light. You can get rid of it or wire in a lamp a an indicator. May help to alert you to trouble later. But it isn't needed

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No offense dude, but you have no clue what you're talking about. I've been towing this trailer with my soob for 9 years 65-80 was fine. Obviously, a few curvy and steep section of Montana and Idaho I had to go a tad slower for safety. And at no point in the trip was I tailgating anyone, or driving without enough caution. I know HOW to drive with a trailer, not just "how fast" That is the key. Also, I do have good brakes, 4 wheel disk. New tires on the trailer with freshly regreased wheel bearings.

What year? But basically that is the tach pulse wire. I/P may mean instrument panel. The other places that wire branches and goes to are the ECU, TCU(if 4eat auto equipped), the Cruise control, and the Trip Computer(maybe Trip ODOMETER?, TO?in Canada?Or Aus?)

You mean SOA dealer accesory

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According to Subaru at the time of manufacture,.....NONE. But we all know better.

All the 90-94 Legacy EJ22s I've ever seen had no EGR.

??????? I hope this is a typo. EA81 and EA82 wagons are over 3000 lbs. That's a ton and a half, not half a ton. I towed 2000 lb trailer from Wisconsin to Oregon, 65-80 mph on the freeway the whole way. Zero issues

The car will be fine. The weak link here, to me, sounds like the hitch. Sounds homemade. Hitches that that use the bumper as part of the support are weak. Subaru bumpers are not made for it. The factory hitches from the time mount differently. I've seen a buddys bumper sag down a bunch from the weight of a trailer. Probably overloaded the tongue but still. any how, he's probably fine, 2 snowmobiles are not that much weight.

This means you didn't do something right, and/or you used REALLY crappy belts. I've put well over 200,000(probably more like 400,000) miles on EA82s over the last 12 years. The only time I've ever had a belt break was on new to me cars with oil soaked old belts or rusty tensioners. Quality new belts, properly installed, with new or at least inspected and passed tensioners, and no oil or coolant leaks on the belts, they will last as long as any other timing belt on any other car. I am so sick of this perpetuated MYTH that EA82s have some flaw in the timing belt setup. If this were true, these cars wouldn't be driving around in numbers 5x greater than other cars from the same era. The flaw is in the owners who neglect repairs on 20 year old cars and then say "ahhhh.... this S***ty car sucks"

Interesting, I've never heard of that. Wouldn't resealing the carb be an eay solution? IDK, ever since getting my first MPFI soob, i've been on Automotive Atkins........No carbs

No, All I meant wa that they aren't a "critical" part. Like if you found that it was actually clogged or something, you could ditch it, but there is no reason to do so "premptively".

I still think it looks janky. Plus, for safety you'd have to mount you're inline fuse, right there next to the battery to flop in the breeze. And then when you're radio fue blows you have to open the hood, instead of going right to the fusebox area, where all the other fuses are. Or have a potential hazrd in the form of an unfused wire running through the engine bay. I'm just sayin. It's a very little differecne in preference really, not trying to anyone.