Gloyale

Congrats Connie. I like it. Wish I'd bought the '80 GL-5 just like it I just got offered. $60:eek: I should have. I could have shipped you a parts car to keep you''re new one company.

On my last trip from Wisconsin to Oregon I had my 4x6.5 foot trailer with the following in it: 1 engine hoist 1 engine stand 5 jackstands 2 ea82 engines 1 EA82 2wd turbo trans 6 ea82 axles 1 rear diff. 2 ea82 drive shafts 4 wagon wheels with tires ea82 turbo crossmember 2 ea82t crossover pipes 3 full ea82t harnesses assorted, starters, turbos, alternators, a couple intakes, 4 gl-10 door cards and armrests Now, my tow car for that trip was Full Time AWD and Turbo, so I had disc brakes, and rear drive axles engaged. But I've done the trip across country with an old carbed GL in 2wd with the same trailer, and was just fine. Not as heavy of a load though, maybe 2/3rd as much. Drive careful, make sure you've got a good solid hitch with safety chains, lights, and good tires on the trailer. You'll be fine. Go slow down the passes, and give others lots of "buffer zone" around you. This was my direct experience.

So, my buddy and I are selling an 87 GL wagon, D/R 4wd. Nice car. Just resealed the whole motor, tested compression all good, good axles around, no dents, ...nice car for the. A guy comes to look at it. He's driving a brand new Nissan Quest, with his family. He wants them all to go on the test drive, so we just let him go, he's leaving a $25,000+ van in our driveway. He's gone for a reaaaalllly long time. OK, he' being thourough, taking it up to speed and such, ok, ok........ He gets back. We talk and he likes the car. But he said " the rear end seems to be dragging, like the brake are on when I use the 4wd":eek: :eek: Apparantley, he thought it was AWD, and drove around like that:eek: :eek: Next day: We drive the car, instantly a we accelerate it shakes like the San Andreas Fault:eek: :eek: ...... axle So we pull off the Axle with the most clunking, and take it apart. Of course it's a reman. Sure enough, the cage was egg shaped:eek: Not drastically, but enough for sure. One of the balls was completely pinched, and immobile in it's hole of the cage. I mixed and matched some boots and fresh grease onto an old original axle from a 2wd turbo automatic. It has over 120,000 miles, but is better than the crappy aftermarket one. Espescially after it was wrecked by the would be buyer(who never called back:mad: ) so in summary of my rant 1: DON'T USE 4WD ON PAVEMENT!!!!!!!!!! 2: *CHEAP REMAN AXLES SUCK!!!!!!!!! 3: Don't assume everyone else knows 1+2 *nescesary evil

That is the Rev sensor/FPCU. It will not power the pump unless an ignition pulse is pressent. Have you tested for spark? Does you're Tach work? If you have a multimeter with a rpm function, you can test the yellow(??) wire at the rev sensor as if it was the negative side of the coil and see if you get an RPM signal. If no signal, the Rev sensor will not power the pump. If there is signal, but no voltage sent to the Fuel pump. it could be the rev sensor's gone out. Check the fuses first, to make sure that the circuit has voltage.

Could also be rotted away fins on the waterpump. A strong candidate if it was ever kept with just water in it. The coolant would be stagnant inside the block. Overheats, boils, expands the water out of the cap resevior.

To find the starter,Look at the Battery, and follow the main Positve (+) battery cable back towards the center of the car. The end of the cable is bolted to the starter. ****That cable has power all the time, unfused, so don't touch it with any metal tools unless you unhook the Negative(-)cable form the battery first**** You may want to wiggle it to see if it's loose, and look for corrosion at that connection. Really though, it's just a way to help you find the starter. Now near that cable connection, is another wire attached to a small tab on the starter. That is the "start" signal wire to the solenoid. If you put 12v(jumper wire from battery) to the solenoid, it should activate the starter. Check that small connection for corrosion and see if it helps if you clean and crimp it. If that doesn't help, it's probably the ignition switch. You should get it replaced. or get someone handy with wiring to install a pushbutton. It shouldn't cost too much.

Well, it will solve thoseleaks. There are a few other sources. The oil pan most notably. The Power steering pump can leak and dribble down everywhere as well. That should be ATF, red, easy to tell. Also the O-ring and sealant between the cam tower and head can leak. The headgaskets even in some cases can leak externally. But the seals are the more common causes and always a good idea to do with the T-belts, waterpump, and oil pump.

Do things like the headlights and radio and power windows all work when it won't start??? Do all the warning lights come on with the key to "run" before actaully turning it to start? Do they stay on when you turn it to "start"? Are you hearing a slight click, when you turn the key to "start"? If the answer to all is yes, (and you've done what skip said you may have a corroded or connection to the starter solenoid. to test, connect a 2 foot wire with a female spade onto the starter solenoid terminal. Turn the ignition to "run". With car in park or neutral. Now touch the wire to 12v + at the battery. If the car cranks and starts you're starter is good. Either you're connection or you're switch are bad. First check the spade connector for the solenoid in the harness. Clean it or even replace it(solder for sure), then possibly the connection of the ignition switch harness. You can buy a new ignition switch, a used switch, or.... a pushbutton or relay setup may be used to bypass or assist the original ignition switch.

It doesn't matter if the radiator was put in last week. Once you put the Radiator clog additive in it, it's shot. It will never "push it through" there is nowhere for it to go. And besides it may have "flow" and not be entirely clogged yet still no function to cool the engine. It's barely functional with a low demand, but romp on the engine and it can't keep up. This is a classic symptom of a radiator that cannot handle the cooling load placed on it. Even with the fan on all the time, it cannot transfer away enough heat, because the additive is coating the inside of every passage in the radiator, reducing the diameter of the tube for flow. While at the same time increasing the thickness of the tube wall. This insulates the inside and decreases heat transfer ability. Less flow + plus less conductivity(of heat)= overheating Replace the radiator.

Actually, I'm thinking of the EA82 setup from an '87. It has only one REV sensor and it controls fuel pump and ASV. :eek: :eek: :confused: :confused: I don't know why but I thought this thread was about an 87 not an 83. Admittedly different. I don't have my 83 manual here with me to look at, but Naru sounds like he's right.

This transmission ha 2 seperate units lubricated by different fluids. the front portion, is the Differential, and is filled with heavy gear oil(smells terrible). the Dipstick and fill hole for the differential is the stubby yellow one tuck in tight on the passenger side. the rear section, is the tranmission itself. It is filled with ATF. It's dipstick (and filler) is on the drivers side, coming out of a long tube. Now, have you had any service done recently? They may have drained you're Diff and filled the tran or vice versa. It's been reported that shops have drained the differential thinking it was the engine oil plug! Or you may have a leak between the 2 halves of the case, which i bad and would need fixed right away. I would hope something like that i covered by waranty on a car that new.

Being that it's on the same circuit. If the Rev sensor(FPCU) is faulty it can *short that fuse and prevent operation. *I was incorrect, It is the ASV solenoid that is on the same circuit. and I was thinking this was about an 87 EA82. sorry

this is wrong. Non A/C equiped EA82s have ONLY the electric fan. It should come on anytime the engine is above 205-210 degrees via the thermoswitch in the Radiator. Even with A/C you're car is the same way. The fan should come on any time the engine gets hot. OR anytime the A/C is on, or the Defrost too. Check you're A/C fuse and A/C relays. They are both located on the passenger side strut tower. Check that the fuse is good, and test the relays for continuity when jumpered. If that is all good, I'd bet the microswitch on the side of the Ducting unit.

Tons of Subarus in Oregon. No emmision:9:confused: in most of the state so the old ones are still on the road(unlike Cali). And no Sales tax.

Since it's you're first time with a Subaru, I'd say 2-3 hours. It only takes me about an hour to do just the T-belts now though.

Yes. Get a new radiator.

I think it's you're pump. It's not a tough replacement, but you probably want to get a timing belt set and install it at the same time. There are decent PCI kits on EBAY for about 65 with shipping for belts and tensioners. You'll want to read the timing belt right up.

Firstly' date=' unless there is Alcohol involved or [i']gross[/i] negligence, no one will go to jail for a car accident(if they have insurance) But if there was question about safety of towing a trailer,they would not go soley by manufacturers specs. They would go by a formula for figuring safe towing weight. Otherwise U-haul would not legally be able to sell you a hitch for you're '93 geo metro or Honda civic. Because those cars like almost all passenger cars are "not recommended for towing" by the manufacturer. But they can put a hitch on you're car. But they tell you It will have a weight limit. And that weight limit is what they would go by. I am well within the laws of at least this state when towing my 1500lb trailer. No one is going to go to jail unless there was provable negligance, like going too fast, no lights, reckless passing, some other thing like that. 5 trips cross country and hundreds of around town trips and no deaths yet. All it takes is attention to the road, awareness of the extra weight, and a heap of caution.

Call me mr. obviouos, but it sounds like you were driving in the mountains to me. It in't abnormal for the temp to rise slightly under sustained loads. It's the fact it came back down, that shows the cooling system is doing it's job. No loss of fluid? Does it cool down even if you keep driving? If so, I'd say you may be just a bit over worried. But good for you to know not to drive into the red.

I would think that a 99 2.5 GT would be worth fixing. Out here in Oregon it would be unheard of to scrap a car like that for a timing belt. It would also be unheard of for it to have rust. But still, the rust can't be that bad. And besides, cars are consumable, you will never get you're money BACK, you can only expect to get you're moneys WORTH. I say you should fix it.

It would take fabrication, and wiring. If you are gonna do that get an EJ seems to be the consensus. But....... I think the bigger issue, is that the car is has no title, and a busted steering column(stolen????) and a $270 dollar resevere Funny though he thinks it weights 3700 pounds cause of the GVW sticker. Not the curb weight of 2600lbs or so. And thinks he'll get paid for that much in scrap metal:lol: Doesn't he realize how much the glass, plastic, and foam and rubber all weigh? He's got maybe 1600 lbs of sellable scrap metal. And they probably won't take it unless he cuts it all up cause it's illegal to scrap a car without a title or at least a mechnics lien. Funny

+1

If you need 4wd right away, while moving, and also say need to grab a different gear you are screwed. This was particularly the case in Wisconsin winters. Plows clear snow on main roads, but side roads remain packed with snow. Example :I am say turning from a clear road onto a snowy one. I don't want to have to stop because I'm in traffic. I need to downshift to go slower and have more torque in the snow. But I won't be able to have good control(or even get through the turn onto the road) if I drive into the snow in 2wd. I need to drop from 4th or 3rd, to 2nd gear, and also engage my 4wd. With a D/R, in order to do both at the same time I have to: 1) put the clutch in, shift the gear lever, 2)then take my hand off and move it to the 4wd lever and move, while watching the road, into just the right spot to be in 4wd, but not LO, and not between gears(false nuetral) 3)waiting all the while to let the clutch back out, coasting, with nothing but brakes to control a vehichle in the snow(which is like nothing) But With a Pushbutton both things can happen at the same time, without having to move my hand.. Just have to wait for the 4WD light, then let the clutch out and punch it. Which adds up to shorter amount of time having the clutch engaged and "coasting" without the drivetrain hooked to the pavement. And I never have to move my hand off and "look" for the other control, which is a distraction. Mostly, it is a convenience issue. It just get's annoying when you have to engage and disengage the 4wd 5 times on a 1 mile trip across town. Here in the mountains we generally "lock in" and go for a while, we either have snow or we don't. But in the midwest you get a mix of plowed and unplowed in any city. This is probably why Subaru's really didn't take off in the midwest until after AWD introduction. Beyond that though, I do think pushbutton 4wd makes "on the fly" and "emergency" 4wd activation safer and quicker*. *provided that you're vacuum shifting system is working properly and doesn't have delay or binding issues. These Part Time boxes are getting old, and some off both types D/R and S/R have shifting issues. To me that feature is the one saving grace of the old 3at automatic trans. Nearly instant hydraulic activated 4wd. But it's a turd of a trans otherwise, and that's another issue

Read and you'll see my car came with disc brakes, and Fulltime 4wd

I'd go with the D/R if you are going to offroad it. Plus then you could sell me the S/R 3.7;) I need it for a project.