Gloyale

Yes, it will be the excact same axle for a Loyale. Assuming non-turbo.

Yeah my only though is did the routing of the hydraulic lines or anything like that change. 99 was the last of the second gen Legacies. 2000 is the first year of the 3rd gen. And the 2000 redesign was more signifigant than the redesign in 95. The rear subframe is 100% different. The front subframe looks the same, but I guess I'll have to pull the rack and compare side by side to a couple earlier Legacy racks I've got.

Blasphemy!!! ExCommunication!!! LOL

I heard they were in the early EJ18 Legacies in the JDM market. like 88,89??? IIRC A board member from New Zealand or Australia mentioned them. I am not for sure on that one at all. An yeah, SPFI EJ = :deadhorse:

Nope. Last belt I bought was from the local dealer here. It was a ContiTech brand. Not the excact OEM. But a high quality belt for sure. Only problem was the lines would always end up a half tooth off. The lines on the belt were not correct relative to the peaks and valleys of the pulley. It was impossible to seat the belt on even one pulley with the lines hitting the hash mark. Let alone all 3 at once. I will say again, Ignore the white lines on the belt, go by the hash marks on the pulleys. When they are straight up all toghether, it right. The belt can look like a friggin zebra and that would still be true.

+1 for the emmisions +1 for cop magnet + 20x multiplier because you're in Corvallis.

No, look at the sides. One side has a notch. If you flip it, it won't go far enough onto the shaft, and the spring clip won't seat. I'm pretty sure it will only assemble one way. Switching them from one side to the other sounds fine.

That manual is wrong. Subaru timing belt installation is not done a TDC. The timing belt install marks ARE NOT THE SAME as TDC.

LOL. no, it's not possible for the crank to be 360 degrees off. No, a good running EJ should fire up if it's spinning at all. Okay, here's the heart of the problem. You're getting overly confused by complicating this. The lines on the belt are IRRELAVANT. I ignore them entirely, as often they are wrong. Especially if it's an aftermarket belt. Ignore the notches on the timing cover as well. The covers distort with time and heat. Just go by when the hash marks(not arrows) on the pulleys are excactly straight up(a line drawn through the center of the pulley and the mark should be excactly vertical). All that matters is the alignment marks of the pulleys are all up and excactly vertical all 3 at the same time when you install the belt. Note also that the belt install marks on the pulleys ARE NOT TDC for #1. IIRC It's about half way through it's compression stroke. The reason for this is to position the majority of the cam lobes in an *unloaded* state for belt installation. This lessens the tendancy of the CAMs to *snap* off the mark.

I have a car here with alot of slop in the Rack and Pinion unit. There is excessive backlash. I am going to try and adjust to solve the problem. However, if I can't get it to stop clackin, I need to source a used one. I have a few older EJ racks around. But nothing newer than 99. The car in Question is a 2000 Outback Wagon. I don't need an Excact match (ratio, etc.) I just need a rack that will interchange. Will the Older EJ racks work?

I see. Not a bad idea. Maybe he should hav said *swapped* or *Switched* instead of flipped. I thought he just flipped the cage and race on the same axle.

Well. Did you unplug anything else? Did you remove the CAm gears? Possibly reinstall them on the wrong side or not located on the dowel pin properly?? Otherwise, If the car ran before you changed the belt, and nothing else was disturbed, and now won't run, then you don't have the belt on right. Double double check belt alignment.

Perhaps the vacuum hose with the *filter* medium on the outside that goes to the Pressure sensor mounted by the airbox???

I have not had any real problems dropping Subaru trannies from the bottom. Espescially a FWD 5spd! It's pretty small as far as trannies go. Should be able to drop it on a floor jack.

Are you sure you used the correct mark on the Crank gear? It's mark is actually on the Crank sensor tabs on the rear of the Crank sprocket. Not the arrows.

That is not rebuilding. It's cleaning and regreasing. Often the best and cheapest option for axles. Flipping the cage and race(cog looking piece)???? I don't know where you read that, but I'm pretty sure that's a BAAAAD idea. IIRC The cage is Asymetrical. I KNOW the race is. There is one and only one direction that those parts are supposed to be installed. I am not sure what the results of flipping those parts will be. I have a feeling it will limit the angle of the inner joint flex. You could end up hyperextending an axle, or worse. Cracking the DOJ cup???

I have a feeling the only thing the DMV insepection is about is verifying that the VIN on the CAR matches the title. There are no real emmissions requirements in Corvallis. And that is only required when a car is being titled for the first time here from another state. If you want to have it looked over and get some advice on whats needed you should drop on by my shop.

The wires you are looking for run under the passenger side carpet. Here is a thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85721 I wrote a summary of some common issues (2 members have reported this EXCACT problem) related to the wires under the carpet. And to a lesser extent it applies to any of the crimp splices in the factory harness. There is a link in my summary that is one of the old threads with pictures of the wiring. Of course you could have used the search tool.

Nah... there a few EA82T brats and wagons out there. Not many, mostly done before the availabilty of EJS became so great. No one has mentioned that the frame rails are too narrow for the EA82t without modification. But if you are going to go throught he trouble of instaling an MPFI engine, put an EJ22 or 25 in it.

Try raising the RPMs as you shift. Instead of letting off the gas for you're shift like an upshift. Actually give it gas an rev the engine up to about were you think the RPMs will be for the speed you are going. Example. You're driving 45mph in 4th. Engine turning about 3500 rpm. But you need to grab 3rd to pass. 45 MPH in 3rd = about 4500 rpm. So, as you make yuo're shift, bring the engine speed up to 4500 rpm. This will make you're shift smoother, and prevent the car from bucking as you go off throttle to on. Also it makes you're shift more effective cause now you are accelerating the moment you release the clutch.

How would you adjust it??? The calipers should be self adjusting. Perhaps make sure the slide pins and the surfaces the pads rest on are sliding freely. Grease accordingly, but keep grease off of the pads and rotor.

Codes will display on the small LED in the Front of the ECU. Bolted to steering column/

That really isn't realistic. The only trailers I've towed that needed brakes were 1500lb+ Horse and stock trailers. And that was with an F-250 HD. Caution at the helm will do fine for most any trailer you should be towing with a Subaru. I.E, small utility, small ATV/snowmobile, or small pop-up campers.

Well, I'm thinking of using the Hill holders to hydraulically lock the rear of my 89 GL (EA82T) I already am using the stock front E-brakes with dual sticks.

It will "bolt up" but without some type of engine management, it will not run. By far, not a *plug and play* engine swap.