Gloyale

Uhh, that listing says *all models* 85-89. which cannot be correct, 87+ are different. He'd need assurance that he was getting the correct one. But I guess that is a good price.

*GL-10* is a luxury options package. nothing to do with drive train. Even a 4wd GL-10 would likely be S/R pushbutton 5spd or pushbutton 3AT. It was the RX that got the Dual Range and LSD(but none of the *luxury* options) Sunroof, nicer seats, digidash, trip computer, nice door panels, premium stereo (LOL) I had an 88 Turbo 2wd GL-10 wagon. with auto seatbelts, ugh...

Actually the lobes of the cam do push on the rockers once installed. It is the only thing holding them in place on the HLAs For the disty, just wait till you get Timing belts back on. Then bring the crank to TDC #1 on the compression stroke (easy to watch if you don't put valve covers on yet.) Now drop the disty in with the rotor pointed at #1. Use a light to time.

Well, there in lies the problem. Even the best ones I've ever seen still have the beginings of cracks, and need some wrapping/resealing. Ordering a brand new one would be $500 bucks or some crazy price. You could have one Fabricated out of thin metal tube of appropriate diameter, and use silicon boots at the ends to clamp it in place. I would think they would have to accept that. Remember, that tube is NOT an emmision device. It is a tube with five holes. 2 at the ends, 2 for pcv(5/8"), 1 for evap(1/4"). Make a tube with the appropriate holes and the engine will never know the difference. As long as the replacement tube is sealed, and has all the PCV hoses hooked into it properly, all of you're original emmisions components will be functioning excactly like stock. Make a fuss, demand a *referee* if you have to. Take it to a different smog guy if you have to. It will be less work and cheaper than buying a non cracked intake tube. They basically don't exist.

From what I know about legacies, both fans should come on at the same time. You'll notice the fans have 3 wires, that is for 2 speeds. Make sure both fans are plugged in. If the one is still not spinning, test for votage to the fan, and jumper the fan to 12v to verify it works. But both fans should come on.

The cable that moves the buckle tends to get bound up over time. Your lucky that yours got stuck in the locked position. Honestly, I just unplugged the motor connection on mine and removed the seatbelt flashing light from the dash. I just duck under it getting in and out, or unbuckle and buckle it. That's abouut all you can do short of replacing the whole motor/track assembly.

Actually, to me it appears that only the outlet after the *y* to the turbo is larger. The rest of the header appears to be the same size piping.

223 for all that on both heads is pretty good. Daddy's Soob. If the cracks are between the valves on the heads, then there is no need to replace them. Those cracks are fine. Subaru has issued bulletins saying so. IUn fact, I've never seen a set of EA82 heads that didn't have a crack between valves on at least one cylinder. Save you're money and run them.

I don't know about the Turbo housings, but I know that there are 2 different headers. Here in the states, the XT (vortex) got the larger header. GL turbos (sedans, wagons) used the smaller pipe, I think to increase pressure on the low end for a faster spool up on the heavier car. All XT Turbos, AWD or not got he larger header here. BTW, the difference is about 1/8 inch diameter.

A tank from an EA81 turbo car or brat would have the baffled tank you need. Otherwise plan on installing a surge tank, or just always having more than 1/2 a tank full.

Maroonish red??? I forget the guys name. Not a board member, but i bought an SPFI EA82 engine from him a few months ago. He gave me a great deal. Otherwise, if you saw a bright red one, it may have been mine:grin:

Check you're rotor screw. Check the MAF tube. Check that fuel line is hooked to correct tube. Fuel line should NOT go to the pipe with the regulator on it. The regulator is on the return side of the injectors.

Fuel line works good. Trans cooler line is better. Anything that can take high pressure really. But both of these get eaten by the glycol and heat. Actual 1/4" coolant hose is the true correct stuff. Carquest ussually carries it. Alot of other places it's hit or miss whether they will have 1/4 coolant hose.

If you can bump yourself I can Quote myself from earlier in this thread. "I've had good luck *repairing* them. Completely degreaseing the whole boot inside and out. In the kitchen sink, with tons of Dish soap. After drying, filling gaps with a bit of RTV wiping away any excess. Then wrapping tightly and repeatedly with black electrical tape. If you can lay the black tape tight and without folds, it might not be noticed. I use real hose clamps for the PCV hoses, instead of the original spring type clips."

276k miles eh.... I would say it would be worth changing the headgaskets on principal. Sounds like the beginings of them going. You can replace the water pump at the same time.

Wow, they are gouging. I paid 60 per head for mine. That was from a good ole boy in Wisconsin. Hope that price includes all the cleaning and a resurface.

If you're brat has an EJ transmission, it should have a neutral switch.

On that note, to get at plugs on DOHC motors, you can unbolt one engine mount at a time(and the dogbone) and jack that side of the engine upward to clear the framerails.

If you mean a tow BAR on the front of the car, leaving all four wheels on the ground, then you will be fine. If you mean a Tow DOLLY, which puts the front wheels off the ground, and only the rears roll, then NO. Definately not. Either tow it flat with all 4 on the ground(manual trans only) or flatbed it. IF you REALLY need to put it on a dolly, you must disconnect the center driveline like mentioned.

Yards around here won't sell them because the CAT is part of it. Illegal to sell used CATS for anything but scrap metal

I'm just going to list some answers XTs did not get spyder intake til mid 87. 2, you can use the intake from the XT, just swap you're harness along with the Knock sensor, and TPS. IN 86, all turbo CAMS were the same GL, RX, or XT. Actually the same crappy cam as the Carbed cars for 85,86. No letter, no marking groove. You're 88 cams will be better, free breathing. Non-turbo XTs from 87 1/2 onward have an even longer duration Cam. But as I said, yuo're best bet is to keep you're 88 GL10 Cams, especially since that's what you're 88 ECU's program is based on. In 87, there where some small changes made to the pistons. One of which is offseting the wrist pin 1mm off center to the thrust side to fight piston slap. Because of this, pistons are not swappable form side to side, and must have the correct side up. But it sounds like you are describing the valve recess notches. They have been present on every EA82T piston I've ever seen.

That's a bummer. But N\no biggy. Considering you're finances, I don't think reususing the block would be bad. Get a used head. Check both heads for true surfaces. They Might not need milled, but they have to be checked. These motors are tough, she'll run great.

Duh, It's a Tranny seal! LOL

I've cut a few of these apart. I'd say only about half of the ones with visible cracks actually where cracked through to the water jacket. It may not be too bad. It would be a risk, but I have been running a motor with terrible BTV cracks and some small signs of the exhaust port cracks for about 20k hard miles now. Every so often I think I smell burning coolant, but I never have to top it off. There is alot of grey area with Subaru heads. Only heads I know of that can have crack like south central and still be in OK running condition. But really, If you want it fixed, talk to some local dirt oval racing guys. They need to weld their aluminum small block heads all the time. There has gotta be someone near you that can weld that crack.