Gloyale

Sounds pretty minor. I wouldn't worry much about it. Certainly doesn't seem like something that would lead to leaving you stranded.

No Chiltons and Haynes are full of crap. Often they are just plain wrong and will cause more harm than help. From the sound of it, you don't really want advice. If you hate the car so bad, call a junkyard.

double post

Did you check the dimmer switch?

You're describing the Main and Slow bleed duty solenoids. On Feedback systems the ECU uses those solenoids to regulate the fuel ratio. Probably a good idea to remove the lines to and from them and check if any are plugged. Sounds like a problem with the slow system. IIRC that is the solenoid that leads to the port on the rear of the carb. See if it will idle with that tube open to atmosphere.

I used an early subaru switch type Turbo TPS on an 80 Jag XJ6. That Maxima one sounds pretty closed to right. But there are 2 main issues. 1: Does it rotate the proper direction??? 2: Does it output in the same resistance range?? BTW, Legacy TPS outputs in a different range, won't work.

Oil pan gasket. All the other stuff can be done pretty easily with the engine in the car.

Or it's low on fluid or has the wrong type in it. I would try changing the trans fluid. Couldn't hurt on a high milage car. And you can look for any signs of metal shavings in the old fluid to tell if there is a real problem.

I've had them seem not quite right. That said, it seems the best way to check would just be to pull the belts off and check it all out. And like GD said, go by srtaight up and down, instead of the marks on the covers. Even if that plastic is in good shape, it seems like those notches can be off.

That spring is the parking pawl pull off. You should be able to see the pawl, and the spring kinda loops around it and braces against the case. Pretty easy. Now, the flat roller bearing is easy to drop. It's on the end of the output hub and is important to get back in there. This thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84923&highlight=4eat+swap has some good photos of the trans from when I did my gear ratio/bell housing swap.

So basically all the lights controlled by the column mounted combination switch. Check the plug for the harness coming out of the steering column.

All the pumps are the same. However, XTs use a different resevior, and also a multi-rib belt pulley. Both parts are swapable onto any EA82 pump though.

wow, that's some crazy stuff there. GD sure knows the EA81 don't he. now how to fix it??? Do you think it will be possible to put a new woodruff key in? or is the crank Fubar?? Oh, BTW, they(the cranks) aren't aluminum, but I think you know and where joking, I hope.

P0400 code is indicitave of a problem with the EGR system. Not nescessarily an electrical fault. Try removing and cleaning the EGR valve itself. Also, one at a time, check the metal lines that connect portions of the vacuum lines(where they run under the intake) They collect moisture in the low areas and can get clogged with corrosion. Blow them out one by one so as not to get them confused. It seems like you're problem is not electrical, but actually related to the efficiency of the EGR system.

Uhh..... As long as it's an optical style disty, it should be the same distributor for all 87+ Perhaps you have an early 87 xt. Does it have a vacuum advance diaphrahm on it? If so then you have the early style which would be the same as 85,86 MPFI/Turbo GLs. In that case you would need an ECU from one of those cars.

87-91 4 cyl XT. You might be able to use an ECU from a turbo GL. All the connections are the same, but it may not run quite right.

Once you remove the Washer fluid tank, and the air cleaner box on the other side, you will have pretty good access. I don't find removing the battery to be nescesary. Washer fluid will pour out the bottom when you disconnect the hose(s) so have some caps, or a length of hose you can stick on there to stop the dripping. There is a trick to getting the right length of extension as well. If you have a good quality spark plug socket (5/8ths) It should have a hex shoulder on the butt end, ussually a 3/4". Use a 3/4 deep socket on the back of you're spark plug socket and you should have just the right length. It is nessecary to insert each piece individually into the recess.

Sounds like the auto seatbelt timer unit. Which would make sense because it is powered even when key is off. That is the location it's in too, above the drivers rear wheel well. I can't explain the speaker popping though. Disconnect that speaker and see what happens.

HAHHAAHA :lol: :lol: The only time I EVER had a Soobie towed was because of that damn F&*()%ng Screw!!!!!

The old GL and Loyales were this way, but Legacy is controled by the ECU. There is no Thermoswitch for the fan like the old ones. It would be a good idea to test the Coolant Temp Sensor though.

Are you setting you're base timing with the Advance disconnected and plugged??? If not, then you're base timing is actually being held advanced by the vac. Combine that with an idle up solenoid that is leaking vacuum. When you activate the AC, the solenoid is sent vacuum but then leaks it all out. Overall vac drops and you're timing retards??? Just a speculative train of though.

You're going to need the TCU for the Automatic. IIRC the trans tunnel may need to be pounded out to fit the 4EAT. You can get a crossmemeber off a *fulltime 4wd* automatic GL Turbo or XT. I'll tel you now, cut the *ears* of of the rear trans mount or they will knock against the inside of the trans tunnel. I learned the hard way when I swapped a Legacy trans into my GL.

If you remove the bumper, you can look into the frame rail to line up the nuts. Makes it easier than working blind up in there.

I'm an independant shop, and I worry about this type of thing. That's why I use almost exclusively OEM parts from Subaru. I don't want to have a customer bring back a car leaking after my job. I'm guessing here that they saw evidence of the leak from before, and assumed it was still leaking. If it is leaking I would suspect it is the fault of the grommets. They start leaking before the actual gasket ussually. It's too bad Subaru charges $4 bucks a piece for those little F*%rs. DOHC 2.5s have 12 of em, for a total of $48 bucks in grommets!

Pretty sure those 2 cars use different compressors. Although if you can get it to bolt in and hook up the electric it might work.