Gloyale

OK' date=' don't get mad if this is a dumb ??? Is this the Motor in you're 91 Loyale we're talking about? If it is, you have an [b']EA82[/b], not an EA81. All EA82s have hydraulic adjusters. And timing belts. To solve you're ticking you have a few sets of options: 1. Run a half Quart of ATF in you're engine oil for about 100-300 miles till the ticking subsides. This is ussually only a temporary solution. Ticking may come back. 2. Replace oil pump seals to raise pressure and eliminate bubbles in the oil. 3. If those 2 things don't solve it, you need new Lash adjusters. Search MIZPAH and you will find a company that rebuilds them cheap. Good luck.

If she is keeping the car as *collectable*, I would say fixing the existing rad is better. The more Original Equipment the better. That is why it is great she is resealing her original engine. Too bad the weber will kill the *stockness* and by extension the collectible value. Connie, when you do the weber, you MUST at least keep the original air cleaner so it *looks* stock.

It's for holding the Flat Full size when you put the spare on. Look down in the cubbys and you might find the threaded rod and *wingnut* type holder.

Should work. If you are going to lower gears like 4.11 or 4.44 you may needc to grind a tad of the corner of the case top clear (so I've heard)

Pretty sure the EJ22T Legacy turbos here in the states had 3.9 VLSDs. Direct bolt in to older legacies and GLs/Loyales Newer Diffs like the WRX use internally splined connection(i.e. axle goes into diff, no exteranal stubs) So to use in an older one you would need newer axles or to swap diff stubs into the VLSD (may need machining)

Hmm.... Learn something new every day. I swear my 93 didn't have one, but I just looked at a 90, and sure enough there is one there. Never noticed those before. Time to change it.

That was it!!! The car had a swapped engine in it. One from a Manual trans vehichle. The Auto ECU was looking for the 3rd pin on the Bypass Air Valve which the auto style don't have. Installed the 3 pin valve (have to swap the whole valve body, not just solenoid) Code gone, misfire gone, idles beautifully. What makes this more interesting is that The 92 Legacy FSM PDF file I have, does not show that difference in the diagrahm. It gives one schematic for all models. It was when I went back and looked in my hard copy of the 90 FSM that the difference is illustrated with seperate diagrahms and flowcharts for diagnosing this code 24 for Manual vs. Auto. Scanner isn't working now or I'd post the diagrahms. So for anyone out there using the 92 Leg.FSM PDF file, you may want to try to get a 90 or 91 book. Seems they reformatted and omitted some stuff in the 92. Also, as a note, I discovered some sizable differences in wiring colors and pin arrangements between the 90-91 cars and the 92-94. So if you are relying on wiring diagrahms to trace problems, you really need the correct book for you're year.

You don't need to. Only one axle must be removed. Don't worry about the other side.

On a 90 Legacy,........ never,......because it doesn't have one.

Think I just solved it. I believe the engine was swapped with one from a Manual trans car. Problem is that manual and Autos have different Bypass Air control valves. Autos have 3 pins on the valve, and Manuals only have 2. Both have the same 3 wires in the Engine harnes but the valves have very different operations. Auto valve can be forced open and closed, IIRC manual valve can only be closed. Swapping valves in a minute. Results and the diagrahm that led me to this to be posted soon.

CarQuest has 5/8th Evap hose. It does exist, and there is a rewason. You'll need it cause that heater hose you used will start seeping through oil in about 1 year times. Glad to hear it's progresing

text from that article: Legacy And Impreza Engines With No Injection Pulse #1 Cylinder Built into the fuel injection control unit is logic that will shut off the #1 injector if the computer believes that it can no longer control the Idle Air Control Valve. Remember this design characteristic if you are trying to diagnose a “hard” code for the Idle Air Control Valve or a dead miss in the number one cylinder due to no injection at idle. A problem in the Idle Air Control Valve circuit may be responsible. (Component testing shows that it most likely is not the valve itself.) Also, if the computer is deprived of its “back up power supply,” some computers will generate a false code for the Idle Air Control Valve and kill the injector for cylinder #1. The pin location of this power supply can be found in the Control Unit Module I/0 Signal pages of the appropriate Service Manual. Very useful.

Yeah, I found this thread from Phiz and the ECU was apparently the problem http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72794&highlight=code+24 However, he didn't have the idle and TPS issues i am seeing. I am going to swap throttle bodies to one that has not been tampered with and see what we get. I need to pull vacuum and compression readings from the motor to make sure we don't have a mechanical problem.

I am getting a persistant code 24 on a 91 Legacy. I tested resistance of the solenoid. Good. Swapped with on from a car with no codes, no change(measured same resistance as the first) Checked all harness for continuity on each wire end to end. From engine to ECU, each section of harness at a time. Also checked for any continuity to other wires or ground, checks out good. Still, this code 24 persists. In addition, I am occasionally getting a *31* TPS code. And to make it more confusing, The TPS was adjusted so that the idle switch never closes. If you set it properly, it tries to die as soon as the idle switch closes. Also, the *do not adjust* screw has been adjusted. What do ya'll think. Could an improperly adjusted Throttle body cause the ECU to be so out of whack trying to control idle, that it would set these codes? My guess is no. I still anticipate finding an elecrical issue. Any ideas appreciated though.

You should test the fans by running 12v straight to them. It's possible, since just one comes on, that the other one is failed. After that search for the relays. Also, on older models (loyales) the fans were wired through the AC trinary/pressure switch mounted to the Drier. Mine failed, I had to bypass that switch to get my fans to come on in *defrost* or *AC*. Discovering that made me think of this thread. Look through the FSM for you're year and see if the fan power is routed through the trinary switch, might be a new place to start looking.

You might be able to use the pulley from an AC equiped XT. They had a a multirib belt. *Note* Subarus do not use "serpentine" belts. They only run the pulleys from the grooved side. Serpentines go back and forth around and over all the pulleys of the motor, some on the "flat" side. What we have are simply mutirib belts, not serpentines. They really aren't meant to be bend both ways.

Mizpah will rebuild HLA's for like 6 dollars a piece. Multiply that times 8 and you're at $48 bucks plus shipping. That's pretty cheap. Espescially since he still may need to do so even after a new pump.

The injector harness and the spark plug wires run very close to eachother. That is where the cut was. I think somehow being uninsulated near the plug wire was causeing *noise* on the wire.

Whatever was leaking coolant, you better fix it better than duct tape. The first time you run low on coolant, you will overheat, and That motor doesn't like overheating.

Even without low or lockers, a Subaru is still a Subaru. The AWD works great offroading as long as you keep 3 wheels on the ground. (no crazy rock crawling) Oh yeah, as far as the "Impreza getting all the rally developement". Uhm.... Yeah. Impreza and Legacy share the same chassis so that excuse is BS. 7.3 inches is not crap for the ruts and roads I run sometimes. Besides, it's the unibody that needs to go up to increase the ability to go over sharp humps and avoid highcentering. I like 10 inches or more at the diffs. And 14 inches of clearance in the middle of the rocker. FWIW, the front approach angle is the real downfall of Legacy and Imprezas for Offroaqding. Terrible front approach angle. Too long and low up front, espescially the 2000-2004. Altering the front bumper (and getting a lift) helps alot, but still better plan on scraping going into those waterbreaks.

You could get you're HLA's rebuilt for half the price of a *SUBARU* oil pump.

I had a 2000 Outback SOHC 2.5 recently with a chronic #3 misfire. I believe I traced the problem to a slice in the insulation, and a couple(literally 2) of the strands of the #3 injector signal(-) wire, very near the clip. After removing the pin from the connector, I carefully stripped insultation off the frayed area. Then applied a small dab of solder on the split wires. Then heat shrink wrapped the wire. Reinserted into the clip and reinstalled. Car has not had said misfire for almost a month. Noting yet conclusive but just a recent experience.

You know, it sounds like a plain old misadjusted or failing float/needle valve to me. Sometimes we forget about the simple, mechanical aspects of repair, just because glitches in electronics are so often the cause. Sometimes it's just plain old mechanics.

No it's a model year thing, early (85,86,early87 XT) and later (late 87-91 everything) The above postings are all in refference to the later style This is speaking strictly of the MPFI TPS setups. IIRC, the SPFI are all potentiometer type, 4 wire. Different output range than the MPFI, but all the same 86-94

You're posting here, so you have internet. Order them online. If you just lift the strut tops, you may get funky camber if you don't make you're spacer with a bit of angle. No angle=pushing top of strut outward.