Gloyale

AA offers one still. As well as a few Australian companies whose names escape me. Scorpion?

Uh, were talking about different type of lift. Not a service lift, or shop lift. This kit definately won't fit ALL Subarus We're talking in refference to lifting the body of the car off the suspension to increase the ride height/groundclearance/tire clearance. A kit designed for early EJ platform won't work for the rear of the 2000-004 Legacies and probably not at all for the 05+ I haven't compared the second gen IMP/FOR chassis to compare. Front should be the same, rear may be different.

89 should be an Fuel injected car. Are you sure about the year?? Are you sure It's not Fuel injected?? It must be a swap if it is an 89 with a carb. Which means it should be wired for an SPFI(not turbo but fuel injected, better thant the carbs) You may have an easy route to a better driving car.

+1 !!!! Of course! A misadjustted idle switch could cause this problem for sure. It's possible it's staying closed too long.

You can use grease on the tap. But really, the aluminum shavings are going to burn up or be ejected quickly. The steel cylinder liners are way harder than the aluminum. They'll be fine with a tiny bit getting in there. It'll burn right away.

On the MPFI units, there are really only four wires (5 but 2 are grounds that tie toghether just inside the harness so they are really like one). In fact *spider* TPS has just four pins in one connector, but outputs in the same range, but oppositte rotation. So any substitute must have: 1. an idle switch with contact when throttle is closed. 2. Potentiometer type, (3 wire; pwr,grnd,signal) 3. Output range from between 5.8-17.8 K ohms throttle closed between 1.5-5.1 K ohms throttle open 4. Must be a working unit with smooth resistance change over the whole range. An Analog Multimeter is best for this test because you can watch the needle sweep.

Carbs were discontinued after 87, but the Dual range trans was available until the end of 89. In fact most non turbo 88-89s I've seen have D/R. I've never seen an 87 SPFI, and there is no listing of such a car existing in any of the FSMs. I think you will find that there is something else going on, either it's a Cali car, or the hood has been swapped, or it was mistakenly titled as an 87. Who knows? Anyhow. Let's see, timings good. Tune up stuff is good. Hmmm...perhaps a Leak in you're intake boot? Or some other problem with the MAF???

You can accomplish the same thing by installing a set of Forrester struts.

If you get you're gaskets from a dealer, you will have to order the grommets seperate.

Also if it's an Auto, I highly recommend removinmg the four Flexplate to Torque converter bolts. That way the engine doesn't have to come as far away from the trans, and you won't have to risk the tricky reinstallation of the Torque converter. If you do remove the Torque converter, make sure you read up on and understand the proceedure for reinstalling it or you risk boogering you're ATF pump in the trans.

And the *pitch stopper* or *dogbone* as it's called. But that actually bolts to the front of the trans on all the EJ cars. Still, it helps to remove that so you can reposition the trans for reassembly.

When was the last time the Ignition timing was set??? And just for curiousity, are you SURE it's SPFI? If it is, it must be a California Car. Or, an 88 not an 87. 4wd 49 state cars in 87 where all carbed. And the Hitachi Carb is notorious for this type of dead spot just off idle. Hope you don't take offense to a dumb question.

Just had a 98 Forrester in the shop. While there, I thought of this thread and took a quick look underneath and compared bolt spacings and what not. It does seem that the first Gen Foresters (98-02 IIRC) share the same suspension/ crossmember mountings. Now, I cannot speak on behalf of SJR, but it seems the lift Scott is making should fit: All Legacy and Outback 90-99 All Impreza and Impreza OB sport 93-01? 02? 03? (whenever the redesign occured) Forrester 98-02? 03? (whenever the redesign occured) *The front portion of said kit should also still fit 2000-2004 Legacy and Outbacks

Yeah, and I'm not sure how different 98-01 imprezas (and by extension Forresters) are from the early ones. Seems the same but could be subtle differences.

It probably is the original clutch. The groaning and excessive resistance are a sign that the Pressure plate in there is getting old. Replace the clutch components and I'll bet you find the effort required at the pedal will be alot less. Converting it to a hydraulic clutch would be a big undertaking.

Did you get a CEL again??? I would try replacing the #4 injector and see what you get. Obviously Zero Ohms means a problem. After a new thermostat of course. Check the overflow bottle for bubbles in case you have a HG leak. You may also want to check you're fuel pressure. Low Pressure would mean running lean, which increases cylinder temps. It would also put a high demand on the injectors(staying open longer per shot) as the ECU trys to balance the mixture. After that it would be time to Unplug the ECU, and the injectors. Then measure resistance end to end on the Injector signal wires. Check for full continuity (0.x ohms) Also check for any continuity to ground or any other wires on the connector(should be infinite, no continuity).

90-99 Legacy share the same platform. *95-99 has slightly different rear strut top mounting. But IIRC Scott is building strut BOTTOM extensions so that won't matter. Although I'm skeptical about the bottom extensions, I'm awaiting the final product. I know the early imprezas share the same platform, 93-98 I believe. Not sure if anything major changed from 99-2002, may work for them too. If 99-2002 Imps are the same then I imagine Forresters from 98-2002 would be also.

I'd get the interior Very, Very, dry before leaving. Mold is the #1 thing that tends to happen to cars that sit around here.

I'd probably use the whole damn tailshaft section from the junker. I have run into a few subtle differences in different years, so you may want to keep the shaft matched to it's original housing. But using just the shaft/clutch pack would probably work too. Make sure you get all the grooves in the individual plates all aligned before trying to mate it to the output.

I would get a second opinion for sure. It's possible they are selling you a bill of goods. That is a very low milage motor to be leaking OIL(they ussually leak coolant:rolleyes: ) externally from the Headgasket. I'll bet it's actually a valve cover gasket, a fraction of the cost to fix. If the noise from the piston wuites down after warm up, I wouldn't worry about that either, until there WAS a real reason to tear the motor down.

Not for this type of code.

I wouldn't use heat on the diff plugg. The rear cover is aluminum. perhaps just a handheld propane torch, and only torch the plug, not the cover. The governor is the cylinder sticking out to the passenger side, top front of the trans. Might want to pull and inspect the gear condition. But if you're shifting is normal, I wouldn't worry about it. Disturbing it could F$#% it up:rolleyes: jk

I think it's just a moisture collector/air resevior. Seems like tyou could bypass it or replace it with some other type of *canister* PCV seems fine. But have you replaced it with a proper OEM one??? Also did you replace the breather filter?? if that is clogged, the system can't work right.

Doesn't matter on EA82s. There are no marks on the belts. If there are, I ignore them. The marks are all on the pulleys and flywheel.

Unhook the battery for 10-20 minutes. It should go away then.