Gloyale

When we first put it all toghether, the center driveline was a tad off. It's a compromise, to ge the right angle on the trans, we end up with the shifters solid big solid mount knocking on the crossmember. Shim it off the crossmember and we run out of threads on the studs formed into the trans mounts. We may end up having to shim the carrier bearing 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Another option would be to shim the points where the trans mount bolts TO the trans, we can easily extend those bolts. And yet another would be to simply modify the mount for the shifter stay. It is a big bulky circular piece that could be allot smaller, And I could change the angles of the shifter to be better at the same time. There is alot of refining to do.

Did you disconnect the Dogbone mount to thte top/front of trans? Did you disconnect the ground wire from top center of trans to body?(near dogbone mount) Did you remove the starter? It may be hitting the trans tunnel if you didn't. Or if you left it, did you disconnect the Pos battery cable from it???(after removing the Negative from battery)

Just outback struts??? If you did 2 inch blocks and outback struts you'll look nice and tall. That's the key, we only did 3 inch blocks, but with the outback struts it totals 5-1/2. It's worth noting that if you were going much taller with thte blocks than this, you WOULD have to deal with a few more problems with driveline angles. And structure of the blocks mounting into the unibody.

Hey HondaSucks, I was curious if swapping in that 2 pin valve made any difference? After more research, it seems this difference between auto and manuals was particular to 90,91. Seems all the 2.2 engines I've seen 92 or later have 3 pin valve. That would explain why none of the later literature mentions a differnece, but it seems the ECUs from those 2 early years need to have matched valve bodies and solenoids or they will throw codes.

Oh, for sure. These were taken literally minutes after lowering it off the stands. We figured leave the small road tires(225/60/14) on for Before and After pics so it would be a real comparision. Also wanted to be able to shake it down with a few road test drives before going even further up in the air;) 235/65/60 for the road and some 29 x 9.5 x 15 mudders (or 14 if we can find em) are coming soon. Probably after the trailing arm extension. Once we have the tires we'll be using, and the rear end *resettled* it'll be time for the zzz

Damn:rolleyes: Nothing:confused: Maybe I should have posted it without pics so everyone would ask for them. LOL

Dude, noones getting the fact that you aren't talking about a caliper issue. I understand that you are reffering to the drum brake set-up on the inside of the rotor for the parking brake. When you bolt the wheel on, the rotor get's pushed tighter and more true against the hub than you ever can by hand. you just have the pads too tight. look in you're factory subaru tool kit and there is what looks like a bent flathead with no handle. use it to adjust hte star wheel from behind the backing plate. Remove the oval plug and use the lever to turn the star wheel. there is an arrow stamped next to the hole that indicates which way to turn, (*up* IIRC)

Please keep you're racism to yourself. Don't bring it here.

It's really not needed in 99% of cases. Subaru doesn't even make or use them. It's an aftermarket item that is pushed on people. Likely you're TO bearing squealing is not related unless there was some serious damage to the "quill" Are you sure it's the TO? Does it squel in neutral at idle? If so I have found that a spring to pull back the clutch fork ussually ewliminates the noise. The fork even has a convenient pin hole in the top to mount the spring. Clip other end to the dogbone bracket. Could also be the Front Main Shaft bearing in the trans case. Was there any gear oil leaking fromt the front of trans??

Aftermarket ignition won't help you're economy or power. Likely you're ECU won't like it either. You might gain some performance by the reduction of weight in you're back pocket though:rolleyes:

I'm going to say you need to pull the cam Carriers and put a proper o-ring in there. You'll have the timing belt off, so you could do the oil pump at the same time. But the carrier o-ring has GOT to be a proper type.

If you've never seen the whole shebang apart, it could be hard to do with the turbo on the car. Once you've done it a few times it's easier to envision it all.

So after months of working out designs, sourcing steel, and procrastination, we finally finished building our Legacy lift kit. Here's what we did: Outback Front struts and springs Outback Rear Struts w/Stock 90 Legacy springs(have to for 90+91 unless you get tops from a 92-94) 3 inch strut top lifts at all four corners. 3 inch blocks between front and rear Crossmembers 3 inch blocks under A-arm mounts in front 1 1/2 inch blocks under rear of trans crossmember 95-99 Outback trailing arm mounts. 93 Legacy rear control arms, eliminated rear swaybar for more flex.(custom control arms and swaybar a maybe in future) Grand Total: 5 1/2 inches of body lift total(2 1/2 at diffs) before adding bigger tires where we hope to gain another 1 1/2. Here are a few pics of the finished car. Some issues: *collar* around the snout of the rear diff rubbed on the driveshaft at it's new angle(we did not space down the carrier bearing). Solution was to stack a few washers to space the collar out a bit. Radiator hoses are stretched but working for now. New ones will be needed. Dogbone needs lengthened Changed angle on the trans caused the shifter linkage at rear of tranny to be bumping the crossmember. Again a few spacers(3/8ths in.) between the trans and member. Helped drive line angle and shifter function too. We are unhappy with the rear wheels being pulled forward. One option would be to space down the original legacy trailing arm bracket the full 3 inches (or an 1 3/4 witht eh outback bracket). But that would leave the bracket hanging in a bad spot for getting hit on rocks and stumps. So we are going to lengthen a set of trailing arms, so the mount can stay up high. Here's the first one. MOre pics of the details of the lift will be posted after I sort the photos and do a mini write-up. That will be posted in the off-road section.

So I was at the junkyard the other day and hapened across a roof rack from a 2003 Outback alreadcy removed. Got to thinking that it would look good my buddys 90 Legacy he just got(no rack :roll eyes:) So after removing the headliner, drilling holes, and bolting it on with new washers and some sealant, here it is.

Haynes manuals are useless for subaru FI diagnostics, partly because they don't distinguish between MPFI and SPFI systems. Better off putting it in your bathroom and wiping you're a** with it. Unplug the TPS and check the resistance between terminals B and D(power and ground). Should be between 3.5 and 6.5k ohms. Now test between B and C(ground and signal)less than 1k ohm at throttle closed, and transition smoothly to greater than 2.4k ohms at wide open throttle(about 80% of the value of B and C)

If you are concerned about the rear diff, and you think the diff might be the cause of the shudder, why do you need to remove the gas tank??? Where you trying to pose the opposite question? (can diff come out without removing the tank??) The diff can come right out, no need to move the tank. Unless you think the tank is somehow causing the shudder??? At any rate I'm going to vote for driveline problem and not a rear diff issue. (they seldom ever have problems)

Sign me up. 89 GL Turbo, adjustables cranked up for front, 2wd rear shocks, massive fender trimming and 27 x 8.50 Firestone *Wilderness* All Terrains. My computer illiterate, often mentioned buddy George (Gemini) will surely want to bring his newly lifted 91 Legacy. 3inch lift blocks, Outback Struts, and as of yet undecided tires. (probably 235/75/15 mud tires) For a total of about 5 1/2 inches lift. Sick. Oh yeah did I mention roof rack from a 2003 Outback?

Check the spade connector for the solenoid. Likely you'll need to replace it.

Actually it is very possible to swap gear ratios in a 4eat. You just have to swap the whole pinion shaft with the front diff that matches. The ring and pinion are matched sets. I use 3.9 gears from a legacy in my 89 GL Turbo, which was originally 3.7.

Scews??? Wedging bolts??? C'mon, what about good ole fashion welding??? A few tacks in the right place and she's all done. I would worry about self tapping screws diggin into my pipe, seems like a rust attraction for sure. The other reason not to remove them is that they aren't just heatshields, they are armor. At least on the older Legacies and I believe on most outbacks. The pieces above the pipe (between car and pipe) are heat shields, The lower panels are substantialy thicker and have a stamped shoulder for rigidity. Those pieces are armor.

heatshields on you're exhaust

Just be aware that the factroy wiring uses a common grounding for the front and rear speakers on each side. So if you use an aftermarket deck you will need to run new wires to seperate them. I find it easier to run new wires to the fronts. There are pink 2 wire connectors at each kick panel. run you're new front speaker line to those connectors, rather than all the way into the doors. The rear speaker harness should be under the trim plastic at the *B* pillar. hook you're new rear speakers to them.

Well, it's easy to tell. If it is a Manual, the solenoid on the valve should have only 2 pins. If it is an Automatic, 3 pins. I would assume it's actually more important to match the ECU, than the actual trans. (ie. you could swap in a 5 speed, but as long as you kept the auto ECU, you'd keep the auto Valve/solenoid) I have a spare manual (2 pin) valve if you need one.

I'd say you should remove the whole crossmember to do the welding. If there is even enough metal to weld to. A junkyard crossmember may be a better option.

You're doing it right. You just need to try more force. You may need to completely remove the springs and hammer the seats off, then reset them.