Gloyale

Then they are using an aftermarket kit. Something more and more dealer service deptartments are doing. It really isn't needed unless there is REALLY bad wear on the *quill*. A rarity. Certainly worth at least inspecting before spending an extra $100 bucks. Sorry, I was thinking of cable actuated clutch. Still you should be able to attach a *pull off* spring somewhere. Just something to keep the TO from rideing on the clutch fingers when clutch is in the released state. The dogbone is the bar that bolts between the firewall and the top front of trans, dead center of vehicle kinduv beside the starter. Look at the shape of it and you will see why it's called a "dogbone"

Sweet.

It's not drilled yet in this picture, but the longer of the 2 blocks got a second hole and bolt. That is where the crossmember for manual trans vehichles bolts on. (Autos come with plugs in those holes) But the bar suggestion is nice, I might end up doing something like that. Although that lift appears to be only 2 inches or so, so I'm not sure a *flat* bar would work for a 3 or 4 inch block, it'd have to be bent, which then means reinforcing it so it didn't just bend more when force is applied.

I'm down keep me posted on days and I will get my arse up there sometime.

They are American Racing 14 inch with 225/60 tires. Basically stock size, but they are VERY nice rims that came on the car when we bought it for $650:grin:

Legacies ussually sit higher under the pan and y-pipe than at the rear diff, espescially if there is any weight in it. Scott, any progress on the lift? I am dying to see:slobber: You can't let me be the only one at WCSS with a lifted, Legacy. (ridiculously sick, big, divorced transfer, full frame monster wagons excluded)

Funny you mention it, I just recently replaced a Speedo head in a 99 OBW. The car had 94k on it, but we found a speedo head that on;y had.......are you ready.......14k. Yup, not 140, but 14K. I put a sticker on the back of the unit with the cars original milage at time of swap. And gave him a receipt that clearly stated vehichle milage is 80k more than indicated, which I made the client sign. I also advised him to check the odometer discrepancy box with that info when he ever sells it.

Yeah, mine say's 90+ 90 more. That is from 90 FSM for 2.2, so it may be differnet on differnet EJs, and as was pointed out, they have revised the proceedure a few times. Sooo...IDK....I guess just reef-em down and pray???

Let me guess, both the big main engine harness connectors and the Disty plug?

The second loosening by 180 degrees is incorrect. You got this from a Chilton or Haynes or other Non-Subaru source didn't you? I've run into this misprint before (In a Chiltons book IIRC)). Only loosen 180 degrees once before retorquing and then turning 90 + 90 more.

"The teardrops of oil are for all my rusted homies" ((((pours a swigsworth of 40w out on the ground))))

Ugh... 2wd brats??? What a waste.

Immensely. I have four *jig* sections from that car still. The front subframe mount section, the rear subframe mount section, and the front and rear end sections for bumper jigs. All the rest of the car's unibody was scrapped:clap:

What is so pleasing??? Did you actually notice any performance or mileage gains? Or are you just happy because you want to be happy with what you've done? (a natural tendency for all of us:grin: )

Except that only happens when the throttle is fully closed, which isn't coasting so much as braking. You slow down pretty quick. Most of the time to coast, and not lose momentum you would need to have your foot slightly on the gas, which would keep the injectors firing at whatever RPM you are running. If you are trying to *coast* for a longer distances, putting the car in neutral (better for the throw out bearing than keeping the clutch depressed) let's you keep way more of your momentum, resulting in further distances without having to use any more gas than idling. For automatics, shifting in and out of gear while at speed CAN have a negative affect on the one-way "sprauge" clutches and planetaries. You'll save more gas by shutting off the engine at lights. Just remember to put the shifter in nuetral(or park:rolleyes: ) so you can restart.

These are just HLAs (hydraulic lash adjusters), not *lifters*. They do not ride on a camshaft, they sit stationary in the head, and support one end of the cam followers, which DO ride on the cam. None are pictured or being discussed here. Which begs the question, how often is slack in the EA82 valve train caused by worn faces on the followers, requiring more *lift*(height and tension) from he HLAs ???? I wonder :-\

A pretty damn good fit, and way stronger than the early 90's rack and more compatable with aftermarket rack/basket systems. This car had no rack at first. We removed the headliner and then marked and drilled holes for the mounting studs. Some butyl sealant around the holes and a few fender washers and it was done. This car also had big dents in the roof from a clamp on style rack that had been on it, and most likely overloaded. So we took the opportunity to work the metal out a bit, but we didn't want to repaint so we didn't fully smooth it or do filer. you can see it form this angle Oh, yeah, and here is the whole car.

I wrote this up in the new gen forum so that other could see it, but I intended it to be a USRM write-up. It's this thread, don't know if it should be fully moved here or if a link will do but here it is http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90182

So here it is. Our first Lift kit. Fabricated all our own stuff. Here's what we started with 90 Legacy, 5spd, stock. This lift is a combination of suspension, using outback struts, and outback rear trailing arm mounts, and a body lift of 3 inches using blocks on top of the strut mounts and between the crossmembers and control arm mounts. These are a few pics of our rear strut top hanging for painting. rear strut block mounted to the strut. and the control arm and crossmember blocks still bolted to our *jig*, a chopped and flipped over legacy unibody section. Dropping the rear crossmember Adding the blocks And relocating the brake line bracket on to our block for flex. Installing the taller outback trailing arm mounts. Removing the front crossmember bolts is easy from below, but don't forget this screw holding the bolt/plate assembly. And here is the results (and me in the blue shirt) Still working out a steering linkage, we used on for an outback first, but it isn't quite right. Not sure if we can adjust the positioning or if we might need to lengthen it. If we do, it will only be 1/2 in or less. I was surprised the outback shaft was sooooo clkose to being the right length, i was expecting to have to extend it more. Also the trans rear crossmember is still hitting against the shift stay rod. And the driveline angle is a hair off what I'd like. Shimming of either the trans mount or the carrier bearing will be in order. And lastly, the rear wheels are to far forward in the well. I made a lengthened trailing arm to alleviate (only finished one) but now am thinking fabricating a new mounting bracket that would pout the pivot point for the arm further back. Not sure which one I'll end up doing. More details as things progress What do ya'll think????

So, for all those of you who are suffereing from stinky burning gear oil from a leaky input shaft Front seal on the trans, I thought I'd do this write-up. Most tranny shops would chargbe BIG money to disassemble the tranny to replace that seal. Most would not even replace just this seal, they'd want to rebuild the whole thing for like $3000. Not an option for most people. Subaru FSMs show the disassembly as a very tough process, involing removing all the guts of the center diff, etc....ughh..... Thankfully That is not needed to replace the front seal!!! *****It's worth noting that I also replaced the front shaft bearing (the one with the dowel) since there had been play on that shaft. The pilot bearing in the flywheel that supports the very front of the shaft had grenaded, so the bearing in the trans was doing all the work. I'm sure it was wobbling causing the seal to go. I believe it was also making for crunchy shifts. It was $34.17, and replaceing it was super easy while apart and made for better shifts. It also would be a good time if one was inclined to replace the diff/axle stub seals, as this way you don't need to remove their retainers or reset backlash. As well the rear output seal and the crush washers for the neutral and reverse switches are accessible and would make for a FULL reseal. ***** However this writeup covers only the front seal replacment as it is the only one that HAS TO BE done this way. Here's the skinny: First remove the trans: Next, remove the four bolts on the coverplate on the rear. You'll see the shifter shaft, and teh little arm that locks it into the reverse checker(lockout) remove the 10mm bolt that holds that arm in place, careful not to drop it down in there. Now remove all 8 14mm bolts holding the rear section to the front case halves. Rotate the shifter rod CounterClockwise to disengage it from the forks and then slide off the rear section. This is what you'll see. Take note of how the 3 shifter rods notches are alinged, as you'll need them this way for reassembly. All the slots line up. Here's what the *finger* on theend of the shifter shaft that engages them looks like. Remove the 2 bolts on the right(as installed on car passenger) side in the bearing retainer around the lower shaft Now it's time to open the case halves. Set it on the left side, you'll be lifting up the right half (left half has all the shift rods and forks in it) Remove all the bolts around the edge, and 4 14mm ones that are in the middle, 17 in all. Make sure you haven't forgotten the two that I mentioned above in the rear where the shaft retainer bolts on. Double check that you got all the bolts, and split the case. Here is the seal you are after. Lift out the shaft Slide off the seal, and slide the new one on. Now, there are a few important notes to the reassembly. First, there is a dowel pin in the recess for the bearing in the middle/front of the shaft. The hole in the bearing must seat onto this pin or the case won't go back toghether right. And, at the rear of the shaft, there is a snapring around the large bearing. it only goes about 2/3rd of the way around, leaving an *open* section. That open section must be towards the lower shaft. Otherwise, the ring hits the lower shaft retainer ands again won't seat. Slide this collar back on. It just sits there, and it's pretty obvious which side the bevel goes on. Now bolt the 2 halves back toghether, make sure to use sealant (I used threebond, Grey or black RTV would probably work.) No pics of that, but once it's toghether stand it on end. You'll need to set it on something with a holein it so the input shaft can stick through. I used an old wheel. Now, there is a real tricky part to get the shifter shaft to line up with the selector rods. First, pull all the rods so they are in *neuteral*, the middle notch of their travel. It's pretty obvious when all the slot are aligned. Apply sealant (or a new gasket) to the edge. And get ready to drop the rear section on. Now as you drop the section on, you need to rotate the shifter shaft CC. Then once it's seated, you can rotate it back to where it engages the rods. It's tricky, and I wish I coiuld take pictures but I was by myself. Took me 4 tries to get it right. I kept getting the shaft to far in, and catching behind the openings in the ends of the rods and moving one before the other engaged. Once you think youi've got it, put the interlock bolt back in, then try shifting to all the gears. If you can't get all six positions, remove and try again. It sounds hard, but once you've got it all in front of you it becomes pretty clear. Total cost of seal replacement = $12.77 for the seal and a fraction of a tube of Three-bond.

So, for all those of you who are suffereing from stinky burning gear oil from a leaky input shaft Front seal on the trans, I thought I'd do this write-up. Most tranny shops would chargbe BIG money to disassemble the tranny to replace that seal. Most would not even replace just this seal, they'd want to rebuild the whole thing for like $3000. Not an option for most people. Subaru FSMs show the disassembly as a very tough process, involing removing all the guts of the center diff, etc....ughh..... Thankfully That is not needed to replace the front seal!!! *****It's worth noting that I also replaced the front shaft bearing (the one with the dowel) since there had been play on that shaft. The pilot bearing in the flywheel that supports the very front of the shaft had grenaded, so the bearing in the trans was doing all the work. I'm sure it was wobbling causing the seal to go. I believe it was also making for crunchy shifts. It was $34.17, and replaceing it was super easy while apart and made for better shifts. It also would be a good time if one was inclined to replace the diff/axle stub seals, as this way you don't need to remove their retainers or reset backlash. As well the rear output seal and the crush washers for the neutral and reverse switches are accessible and would make for a FULL reseal. ***** However this writeup covers only the front seal replacment as it is the only one that HAS TO BE done this way. Here's the skinny: First remove the trans: Next, remove the four bolts on the coverplate on the rear. You'll see the shifter shaft, and teh little arm that locks it into the reverse checker(lockout) remove the 10mm bolt that holds that arm in place, careful not to drop it down in there. Now remove all 8 14mm bolts holding the rear section to the front case halves. Rotate the shifter rod CounterClockwise to disengage it from the forks and then slide off the rear section. This is what you'll see. Take note of how the 3 shifter rods notches are alinged, as you'll need them this way for reassembly. All the slots line up. Here's what the *finger* on theend of the shifter shaft that engages them looks like. Remove the 2 bolts on the right(as installed on car passenger) side in the bearing retainer around the lower shaft Now it's time to open the case halves. Set it on the left side, you'll be lifting up the right half (left half has all the shift rods and forks in it) Remove all the bolts around the edge, and 4 14mm ones that are in the middle, 17 in all. Make sure you haven't forgotten the two that I mentioned above in the rear where the shaft retainer bolts on. Double check that you got all the bolts, and split the case. Here is the seal you are after. Lift out the shaft Slide off the seal, and slide the new one on. Now, there are a few important notes to the reassembly. First, there is a dowel pin in the recess for the bearing in the middle/front of the shaft. The hole in the bearing must seat onto this pin or the case won't go back toghether right. And, at the rear of the shaft, there is a snapring around the large bearing. it only goes about 2/3rd of the way around, leaving an *open* section. That open section must be towards the lower shaft. Otherwise, the ring hits the lower shaft retainer ands again won't seat. Slide this collar back on. It just sits there, and it's pretty obvious which side the bevel goes on. Now bolt the 2 halves back toghether, make sure to use sealant (I used threebond, Grey or black RTV would probably work.) No pics of that, but once it's toghether stand it on end. You'll need to set it on something with a holein it so the input shaft can stick through. I used an old wheel. Now, there is a real tricky part to get the shifter shaft to line up with the selector rods. First, pull all the rods so they are in *neuteral*, the middle notch of their travel. It's pretty obvious when all the slot are aligned. Apply sealant (or a new gasket) to the edge. And get ready to drop the rear section on. Now as you drop the section on, you need to rotate the shifter shaft CC. Then once it's seated, you can rotate it back to where it engages the rods. It's tricky, and I wish I coiuld take pictures but I was by myself. Took me 4 tries to get it right. I kept getting the shaft to far in, and catching behind the openings in the ends of the rods and moving one before the other engaged. Once you think youi've got it, put the interlock bolt back in, then try shifting to all the gears. If you can't get all six positions, remove and try again. It sounds hard, but once you've got it all in front of you it becomes pretty clear. Total cost of seal replacement = $12.77 for the seal and a fraction of a tube of Three-bond.

The ECU is grounded by several wires, not it's mounting. no worries leaving it hang during testing. For testing voltage at the relay, leave the connector plugged into the relay, and probe from the back side of the connector. (in fact that is ALWAYS how Fuji says to test them, diagrahms are always shown looking the back of the connector) BTW, any time you see an *L* labeled wire, that means *blue*. *B* means black. If it is *L/b*, that means *BLue w/Black stripe*

If they are both 4wd, they will both be carbed. That would make swapping engines super easy. Go for it. I would keep whichever engine runs better (likely the 86, voodoo ya know) and swap axles, trans, hubs as needed. And for what it's worth, i've known SPFI cars in good tune to get nearly 35 MPG but that will be irrelavant

Take it to a dealer for sure. 2 year old car with an airbag light on??? they need to fix that. IIRC, there are federal warranty laws specifically covering airbags(kinduv like the emmisions equipment warranty they have to cover X amount of time) I believe it's either 6 or 10 years. Either way it's way still under warranty. Get it checked or or you may get a sudden surprise, and we ain't talking about a Jack-in-the-Box.

That applies to 4wds. If it is a 2wd from 87 it will be SPFI. Anyway, *swapping* bodies is possible. It just depends on how far you want to go with it. You'll probably find it better to just fix whatever needs attention on the 87 using the 86 for parts. Be warned, 87 is a bastard year. Wiring uses a combination of old and new style connectors. I personally have a voodoo superstitious fear of 87's, and don't ever want to own one (unless it's an 87-1/2 XT turbo:headbang: ) Oh yeah, if you do this *swap* keep the SPFI, you'll thank yourself at the gas pump.