Gloyale

SPFI and MPFI pumps are different. SPFI runs on 21 psi. I tested one (an SPFI) *unregulated* the other day and 30ish was as high as it would get. Not that it realy matters here, since he is using the MPFI pump. Just a note.

Did you plug the fans in after you were done???

Hook a test light to the negative side of the coil while cranking. Watch tho see if it pulses

Here is the best combo for you're use I can see. Buy a Turbo motor. Remove the Dual port heads. Use them the Turbo shortblock, with swapped SPFI/Carb(9.5:1/9:1)pistons......or......use a whole NA SPFI or Carbed shortblock. Get someone (Scott:rolleyes: ) to weld a Weber adaptor to you're MPFI/Turbo intake. Use a standard carbed Disty Basically that would be the setup you have on you're current trike IIRC, You just started with a NA block before. If you use a turbo block you will need to swap higher compression pistons in.

Here ya go, the one on the right has the pawl installed

You are overthinking this. You're parking pawl in the trans is worn. Probably someone parked this car on a hill, then just ripped it out of gear in the mornings. This causes the parking pawl to wear indents. Problem is, you shouldn't rely on the *Park* function of the trans to stop the car from rolling. If you are on even a slight incline, you must first set the PARKING brake (ie E-brake) before letting you're foot off the brakes and shifting to park. This way the pawl in the trans doesn't get loaded with the full vehicle weight. Good news is, you can replace the pawl easily when you swap the C solenoid/clutches. It is just placed over a pin, with a spring to load it. Often it falls out when removing the tail section. I would advise just getting the whole tail section of that used trans, and get the pawl too. No need to replace the entire trans.

Idle switch in the Throttle Position Sensor. Easy to test if it is closed contact when the throttle is closed. +1 on checking the cable as well.

A small pan head screw right on the spot on the door that hits the pin will fix that.

Dibs on 1 maybe 2

I don't know why i't disdn't work for you. I did it, (on accident:rolleyes: 10 years ago) but it worked. I only noticed when I saw the car sitting leaned to one side. I've never intentionally done ti to both sides to lower a car, but I'm sure it would work.

Holding the driveras side cam gear stationary is somewhat tricky. Just keep trying, you'll. I usually remove the smooth, lower idler and leave it off until I get everything lined up. Makes things easier. You don't need marks on the belts, just make sure you've got all the pulley/gear marks at 12o'clock. *note the crank gear mark is on one of the Crank sensor tabs.

inspect very carefully the insulation on the wires for the Injectors. I had a car with chronic misfire on 3+4, but ussually 3. The issue was resolved when I found that small nick in the insulation of the injector wire. It was very close to the connector, and near where the plug wire crosses over the fuel rail. The wire beneeth had a few strands cut frayed as well. I can't say for sure. But since I dabbed some solder on the wire, insulated it, and moved the plug wire away from it slightly, there has been no problem, 7 months now. I really think that these persistent misfire issues are from *noise* issues between the injector wires and the spark plug wires. Perhaps exagerated when wires don't fit right and run tight over the injector rails.

Maybe not you, but perhaps someone way overtightened the bolt on that edge. I notice if you were to draw a line through the bolt hole and the center of the intake port, the fracture points would lie on a chord perpendicular to that line. Almost, but not quite. i.e. the pivot line created by the force of that bolt.

My jaw just dropped. Seems like a fusible link didn't do it's job huh? Seriously, I am sorry for you're loss. But at least she went driving up 'til the last day. Not rotting away in JY somewhere. There is no more honorable way to go than in a blaze of glory. Like the Viking Kings on their journey to Valhalla. R.I.P. Mighty Brat "Rejoice you should for those that become one with The Force "

Whoa! That is a pretty bad intake leak. Good news is you might be able to order just that pice from Subaru.

Sweet. Glad to help. I think this excact problem has come up here at least 3 times.

I was pretty sure you did know you're EA from EJ cars. I just had to say it as a remote possibility. Hope no offense was taken. Now on to this. http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q200/SMASHmySOOByDONTya/EJ22%20conversion/DSC_0238.jpg What you are calling a Knock sensor is actually the Crank angle sensor. You can clearly see the timing marks on the belt cover, front of motor. The knock sensor is in the back and somewhat *under* the intake. at any rate, the newer motor may have a different size hole than you're original. Did you get the Sensor with the new motor? If so you should be able to just swap connectors.

That is certainly you're issue. Fuse 5. It is labeled horn/hazard, but it also is the fuse that supplies the ECU with voltage when the key is turned on. When you turn the Key to *on* with engine not running, you should see you're ECS light come on. You're is not, right? You have a short in that circuit. Did you install a stereo recently? The green wire that is the constant power/ memory backup in the dash is also on Fuse 5. If you've been in there lately, it's possible that the wire is touching a ground. It's happened before. You could also inspect the condition of the ignition relay. It's brown, mounted on above the ECU under dash, bolted to the column. Test it with a multimeter for shorts.

Most Turbo GLs with Fulltime would have been D/R. (basically an RX without the styling package) It was the XT that got the S/R Fulltime boxes.

Install a IC and a manual boost controller and you might break 105 hp

oh no. Do you know the condition of the cataytic converter? Have you checked the distributor advance? Both vacuum and the mechanical weights? I failed smog in Wisconsin 5 times till I disasembled, cleaned and lubed the advance weights in the disty.

I see what you are saying, yeah *flipping* it wouldn't work. I am really baffled by this one. It hasn't caused any real issues for any of the jobs I've done. I just want to know. And nobody has been able to tell me why the bearings are eccentric like that? I plan on taking pictures, and starting a post devoted specifically solving this.

It's there to make the motor vibrate less. Or rather to isolate those vibrations. Just like the rubber in the motor mounts, it is meant to isolate the driver from the noise and vibration of the engine. Solid motor mounts would be more effiecient at transfering power and would never get sloppy, but they make the car shake. The old standard GLs had a solid pulley. The MPFI ones got a 2 piece with the rubber. I've interchanged them and noticed almost no difference except not having to worry about it breaking.

OMG, Subaru engines are not I4s they are flat 4s. Stick to you're buick and you're bikes and stop giving bad advice to people about their Subarus NGK or Denso only for plugs for Subaru. They do list a champion plug in the manual, but they were never installed OEM. The listing is likely there for people who are in places in the world that may not have NGK or Denso. The old FSMs used to specifically say NOT to use Champion or Autolite. I have personally solved misfire problems in Subarus by replacing very new Autolites with NGK and oh yeah, what is this 90k mile BS? The plugs are one of the only regular maintanence item's on a Subaru. Every 30k miles along with the fuel filter they should be changed.

No, just get the proper length bolts. If you've got a manual trans equipped engine from anything there (EA81,EA82,EJxx) the bolts should work.