Gloyale

What is the condition of the timing belt? You're belt may be glazed and slipping over the waterpump pulley, reducing water circulation. Although, if you are losing coolant regularly, you may have the beginings of a head gasket issue. Sounds excactly like what happens. Espescially the no heat going down hill.

I'm finding that yards are drastically increasing prices,here in the NW, espescially on subaru parts. And they have mercilessly been crushing tons of the older ones, even with lots of good parts on them. They want fewer cars available for parts, so supply is low, and demand is increasing with more new Subie fanatics wanting to build the next trail machine. JY have no heart for lovers of old cars:mad:

I do not want to rain on a parade. But I have a few questions? So the Ign Coil fuse, was it blown? Poor contact? If so that was probably the issue altoghther and your pump was OK. That is the second question I guess, did you test the pump? verify that it was siezed? Hopefully you HAVE solved it. however, It's also somewhat possible that the Distributor could be failing after hot. No ignition pulse signal = no grounding of FP by the computer. If you truely have spark, this is not likely the issue. A few other possible culprits could be the Fuel Pump relay, or the ECU itself. *search for threads about burnt transistor in the computer. Also, a bad Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) can cause trouble on restarts, not closely related to fuel pump function, but a common *parking lot stranding* type failure. Might be handy items to pick up spares of.

Well, the coolant chambers are all physically above the oil return passages. And I doubt that a pressurized system would allow oil to seep in. It would have to be from the pressurized oil feed lines to be at the HG, but unlikely. Trans fluid is cooled in a chamber on the side of the radiator. Actually this warms the trans oil as well in cold weather so it's really more of a heat exchange than a true cooler. Anyhow, possible, but not too common. Are you sure it is actually oil and not residual sludge from some additive?

That was the best color ever! at least if it was still shiny.

Do you have a Manual trans? Manual trans use a purely mechanical AWD system, no hydraulics to control = no TCU = no Fuse= better have a full size spare.

Why would you try to save 5 dollars here? replace the rotor too. Also replace the fuel filter. I hope as well you used a genuine Subaru Thermostat. I would replace whatever you put in with a genuine one or you risk overheating.

I ussually suspect relays way before motors. The blower motor is super easy to access the plug for testing. If you get voltage to the fan,relay is fine. If not, the relay can be accessed by removing the lower dash panel below the column. Then you can reach straight through the opening at the left side, behind the "tray". The Blower relay has a whitish/clearish connector and is on of the standard round type relay Subaru uses for everything. However just yesterday I had to repalce a blower motor. It can happen. Removing the blower is a bit harder. I had to unscrew the hinges for the glovebox and remove glovebox. I also had to loosen the lower corner, passenger side dash bolt(behind cover, far right lower of dash) just enough to make it flex a hair to get the blower to clear. All in all fairly easy. tools required: Multimeter or test light Phillips screwdriver. Ratchet and a 8mm and 10mm sockets.

You shouldn't need new sockets if you are careful removing them. There are also 2 differnet sizes. The 2 turnsignal bulbs and IIRC 2 others are larger, and the rest are the smallest ones on the shelf at Advance,autozone,etc...

The helical OBX front liminted slips for the WRX will fit in any of the older 5spd trannys. Couple that with center locking diff AWD box (RX) and a Clutch or viscous LSD rear (available factory options) and you'll have pretty positive forward propulsion.

I've heard of a neat possibility for automatics. You can replace the output to pinion shaft gears(which rotate opposite) with a sprocket and chain setup(which rotate toghether). Now this would only change the direction of the front pinion shaft, so something else would have to be done to reverse the rotation of the rear(or front, in a reverse mounting) output. For say, a RWD sandrail, I think a 2wd automatic would be perfect, either 3at or 4EAT. 3at would actually be way easier as it is purely mechanical.

my guess woudl be Coolant Temp Sensor as well. It's a PITA, but if you remove the intake tube and move some stuff you can disconnect the CTS. Make sure to put the intake tube back on before trying to start. They will usually fire right up then if the CTS is the problem.

Best thing would be to buy a timing belt set, with idlers, and order a new Cam sprocket. Hang the belt on her and see what you get. Does it run? How is the compresion? Leakdown? This will give you a chance to diagnos the engine, and you might get lucky. Worst case, you still have a brand new set of idlers and a T-belt to put on after the teardown, or to use on a low price used motor. Frankly, I would rather tear down what I know was a good running engine, and repair it with fresh headgaskets and seals. Otherwise you might be pulling that J-yard 2.5 you got the "deal" on soon after installing it.

Fan problem = bad relay or connection at relay. Replace relay or repair connection. Defrost/engine issue is siezed A/C compressor. Disconnect plug from the condensor or remove A/C belt.

I'd do them on principal. You'll have way lower chances of ticking. You'll likely find little specs of debris in a few of their inlets. Pulling them out of the rocker is the hardest part, but doable. Carefully grabbing the shoulder with a pair of Vise Grips works pretty good. At least these don't take a 2inch deep pan of oil like EA hydros.

To the OP here is a tip. Kinduv a short term fix if your clutch pack has worn out, but it worked for me through a few Wisconsin winters. Read Andys write up on the "C Solenoid" lock switch. Search "diff lock" or "lock switch" His write up will show you how to find the single wire that controls the AWD solenoid, known as the C or Transfer solenoid. Then, you can cut that wire(leave enough pigtail on the connector side to splice back onto) this will give the transfer clutch max pressure, and will squeeze any last life out of the worn clutch. Try it in some snow, and see if the results are satisfactory. Now if it doesn't, This means either the solenoid failed in an *open* state, or the clutches are totallyshot or the output has sheered. You can reconnect the cut wire, and proceed to 2wd only or fixing you're clutches. If it does give you 4wd, run a wire off both cut ends of you're wire into the passenger compartment. Run the wire long enough to reach a good switch mount point, and put a 20 amp rated on/off switch in the line. Now you have a "lock" switch. Be very careful using this though. Now you basically have to think like a true 4wd. USE IN SLIPPERY/LOW TRACTION CONDITIONS. LEAVING 4wd operating this way while driving on pavement may damage (further) the transmission or axles.

This is correct. However the connectors are kinda hard to get to. They are tucked up almost above the main harness behind fuse box, up against the far edge of the underside of the dash. I think White? But perhaps green. there is probably tape over one or both of them. NOT the 2 blue, further up, that should be connected(those are the clock memory)

Okay, well let's say it was a 93. Which would definately be Pre-OBDII. I assume those have d-check and read connectors under the dash? Can anyone tell me for sure. Kinda funny, but I've never had to pull codes from an older impy before.

Model Year 96 was when Subaru went OBDII. This car is a "95", but was actually built in May of 94. There is no OBDII connector.

Hey all, Wondering if anyone can point me to the d-check and read connectors for a 95 Impreza (built 5-94) Got a reoccuring CEL and I can't find the connectors. Green and black like the legacies? drivers side or passenger? Thanks

I think the Hydraulic fittings on the EJ rack will be in bad spot for the EA crssmember. But using a EA82 rack shoudl work no problem. Get the lines from the EA82 all the way to the pump. Those lines will hook right into your EJ pump.

1st gen with Manual the motor and trans will come out toghether. 2nd gen OUTBACKS with either trans can be pulled toghether (outback body is 1.25 inches further off crossmember. 1st gen w/4eat mated to it will NOT come out without lowering the crossmember. Prove me wrong, please (w/ photos, or it don't count)

Automatics won't come out connected to the engine in a Legacy. Not without lowering the whole front crossmember. It won't clear. Best bet honestly is to drop the trans out the bottom. Get some very tall jackstands, and a transmission craddle for your floorkack. Hardest part is unbolting the Torque converter through the access hole in the rear of the engine. Put's you on the ground, but involves the least amount of work for dissassembly. Alternately, you could pull the engine first, then the trans. Or, If you really want them to come out toghether with a hoist(which does make mating the new one to the engine WAY easier) You will have to lower the engine crossmember by removing the four bolts that hold it to the body. It still will requre a ton of tilt(drain trans first) and is a tight fit. Whatever you do, make sure you get a good grasp on seating the Torque converter into the transpump. Do some searches, it's very important and easy to goof up if you don't pay careful attention.

Use a socket(3/4?) on the hex shaped top of the spark plug socket instead of a common extension or swivel. This gives you just about perfect spacing to clear the frame rail. The socket needs to be rotated into the hole, taking advantage of the oval shape. Same with the plug wire ends. Remove the air intake tube, the battery, and the washer resevior. Makes it much easier. Also its good to use some di-electric grease in you're socket when installing the new plugs, otherwise the rubber sleeve can stay stuck to inside the hole. Or, glue you're rubber sleeve into the socket to be sure it's tight, or just remove it. You don't want that sleeve stuck in the hole. PITA!! This will prevent the plug wires from going on.

I don't think autos had it either after 95