Gloyale

As far as a transmission, unless you're wife is going to be wheelin' this thing, I'd just replace the synchro on the trans. Split the case yourself, then take the main shaft to a trans shop with a press and have them fit the new synchro. Probably spend less than $100 bucks. At anyrate alot less than an adapter plate, a mix matched clutch set, and all the work of modifying the linkage and lengthening the driveshaft.

Set up the intake snorkus back to the stock configuration. Replace the plugs and wires should get rid of the misfire code (although the misfires could be exagerated symtoms of the missing speed signal) Evap solenoid is under the intake manifold, mounted between the intake and the Coolant pipe, passenger side. It is only a 2 wire solenoid, so probably not the 4 pin connector you refered to. I am guessing that the 4 pin connector unhooked is for you're reverse light and neutral switch. Which would explain why it dies as you roll to a stop. No nuetral switch signal and no speed signal. the ECU is having a real hard time deciding when the car is under load, coasting, rolling in gear, etc.....

When the light comes on, does it flash or blink, or does it stay on? Also, the shudder in the trans, just one big thud? or a continual vibration?

This thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90183&highlight=lift Has the detailed pics of the lift blocks and installation.

Actually, it is just a conventional diff with spiders and pinion that power goes to the path of least resistance, wether it be front or backs that first begin spinning. If all you're wheels are all in contact with the road it is true ALL WHEEL DRIVE. every wheel has equal traction so recieves equal power But let's say the rear wheel spins on ice, the front axles will actually lose some power(it will retain an amount equal to whatever limited traction the slipping wheel is getting, down to zero) Drive power will be increaswed again as the fluid in the diff heats. Then the front gets power. If the front where to spin first, then the same would happen oppositely, rear losing some drive til the VC heats up and sends power rear. This is true of the 5mt transmissions only 4EAT automatics are true FWD with a secondary power transfer to rear controled by hydraulic clutches.

No connectors = u-check only flashes a code if check engine light is on. Green connectors = D check or *test* mode, kinduv a self exam by the computer of the components. Again only outputs active codes. BLACK connectors (which is what I said int eh first place) will output STORED past codes. The reason this is important is that the code will not be shown unless the engine is running in either of the first 2 modes. 2 modes, and if it ran, there would be no code. Catch 22 situation. So to read stored codes, use the Black connectors. To clear codes hook up both sets (green and black) and then start and run the engine til the CEL flashes.

You need to be able to remopve the top plate at eh rear, and unbot the arm that holds the Reverse lockout mechanism. Could be difficult with the trans in the car, althoug if you tilt it back far enough it amy work.

Some of you saw this car at WCCSX 90 Legacy, outback struts, 3 inch lift blocks. Pulling out a F-150, gotta love it.

you need to read. First post says 86 GL-10 Turbo. He's got an EA82T, MPFI. Scuzz, You need to read the codes in you're ECU. find the 2 black connectors under the dash, and hook them toghether. this will make hte small LED light on the ECU flash a code to you. You can find all the details by search, but read the codes. If you have no codes or just Crank or Cam codes, it is likely a relay or maybe you're coil. Although a bad distributor would also be possible. If there is a code for an injector, you likely have a dying resitor(all 4 are supplied from the same 12v), or other break in the FI circuit.

Guys, and Gals, settle down. He doesn't have any problems at all. He said he wondered if his car COULD get torque bind. And yes, assuming it has all 4 axles, a center driveline, a rear diff and an AWD transmission, then yes, yes it could. But it doesn't happen nearly that often on a manual. If he had it[TB], he likely would have gotten out of the situation he described lol I think mostly he just needed to know about his open diffs (my front tire isn't spinning) He also didn't know what excactly Torque Bind is.

I checked into it, and there is a split somewhere around 96. That number you gave (AA090) is for the later ones. The part # for 90-95(issh) is 31942AA070 But thanks to everyone for the input.

Shouldn't the 84 be a hydro lifter engine? 81 will need valve adjustments. Not a huge deal, but a small PITA

Has the throttle plate stop screw been messed with? It should have white paint on it, look to see if it's been disturbed. Someone may have tried to turn the idle down, and if you close that too far, there isn't the proper amount of air passing through. It is also possible that the idle air passage is clogged. Look into the throttle body, and just below where the throttle plate closes is a small hole. See if it is obstructed. But skip is right, you need to figure out wether your losing fuel, spark, or possibly air. Just to clarify, will it just not idle after warmup? Or does it just die while driving?

Did you use that on the block? I hope not. You should never use anything but a gasket scraper and 1500 grit sandpaper on a sanding block(very light and carefully, just to remove high spots of left over gasekt material) If the drill tool you used left any type of scratches or marks on the block, that could be the problem. Fortunately you could have the deck resurfaced, however you'll need to split the case halves to have it done.

I've used several of those Eristic kits and they seem to be fine. I am putting my money on carb base and/or intake gaskets.

Hey all, wondering if someone has the part # for the *C* duty solenoid for a 4eat in a 93 Legacy? The computer at my local dealer has some FUBAR information in it, and we can't for the life of us find the part # for the solenoid. Anyone replaced one lately? Got the part # handy? Also, anyone got a good source for the friction clutches for the transfer?

I'd see about getting you're money back. that sounds like a rod about to giveway.

I believe it is actually a capacitor. there are a few of them scattered in the harness. Probably to supply something like the computer or cruise unit with steady power, no surges.

I believe the that the all too common Misfire codes in these 2000 outbacks is caused by noise interference between plug wires, and injector wires. They routed them WAY too close to toghether. Make sure that none of the injector wires are actually touching the plug wires. sperate the 2 as much as you can. I've eliminated this reoccuring code by placing flexible wiring conduit around the injector wires, as well as the factory conduit that SHOULD have been swapped onto the new plug wires.

The engine is from the boneyard, and is installed in an 84 Hatchback. I don't hink you could make the EJ22 run on the EA81s Vac setup lol

So let me get this straight? You buy a used car? but feel you couldn't afford to spend $500-1000 to fix it? Well, if that is you're attitude, you will surely be unhappy with ANY car you buy. EVERY car WILL need work done to it. The good thing about a Subaru, is that if you do bother to INVEST in the life of the car, it will hold a high resale. Subaru have some of the Highest resale of any brand. I contend that you can't afford to NOT spend money to fix things. Because if you don't fix them, then you're whole investment is worth nothing, and you still have to buy a new car.:-\

Bullsh*t. Ever do a timing belt on a Honda? a clutch? Hell just try to replace the starter! You have to unbolt half the motor mounts, and a billion other things just to get the damn covers off. In a Subaru, you just have to take off the AC belt tensioner and the Radiator fans and BAM.... you're there at the T-belts. Hondas are WAAAAAYYY more difficult to work on. And Honda parts are every bit if not more expensive than Subaru. And what is this Foreign car over 150k crap? I would ONLY buy a foriegn car that had 150k. I have seen too many Jeeps, Dodges, Buicks, and Fords, completely lose major engine internals around 150k With a Subaru, you might have to replace a clutch or headgaskets, but you are unlikely to have a piston explode.

It is fairly normal for the 4wd to "clunk" when disengaging. What happens is that tension is stored in the drivetrain between the front and raer axles. Espescially if you have been testing it on pavement in 4wd. The Clunk is just the relaese of that stress BTW, you and he should both know NOT to use the 4wd on pavement. Only in Gravel, Snow, Mud, or maybe a very, very wet and slick road. hope everything else goes well. Do you happen to know when the timing belts were last changed?

You could try a new valve body in it and see if that does it. It could be just a matter of a seal between two passages that blewout. It sounds a bit like you have chewed up the one way *sprauge* type bearing. It locks in one direction to prevent the sun gears from rotating to engage reverse. Doesnt really explain the drive pressure in P though, so it may be a valve problem. But for the trouble you could almost just throw in another 3at. Although changing the valve body could be done easily with trans in car.

The 2.5 blocks can warp. Last one I did had a warp of .002 in. Just at the limit of acceptable. I can imagine that some could be worse, but ussually they are OK. And they can be milled too. Surface grind limit is .016 in. so there is room for a fresh cut.