Gloyale

This is not a good idea on a car with a computer. Kinduv an old school trick that doesn't carry over well to newer vehicles.

Then it is not likely you're trans. Probably a wheel bearing. Let me ask, does the noise change when you make a turn? Like when the car leans for the turn, does the noise go away momentarily? one side only? Which ever wheel is on the inside of the turn when the noise goes away is the one with the bad bearing.

I'm not sure you can call EMPI quality. They are known for making MASS PRODUCED VW parts, not really high performance(unless you count the packaging) Hope they work out, but I would go MWE

Did you're Alternator belt break? That would be the thing that would cause low voltage and oveheating. There is a small coolant hose that runs from the manifold to the block right in that area under the PS pump. Perhaps the belt brake, caused high temp and pressure, that then blew the little hose?

Does it continue while coasting in neutral at the same speeds? Does the sound change as you shift or just continue as you accelerate?

Ahhh.... I see. So OK, get someone to hit the brakes, and probe the inner contacts of the bulb socket for 12v with a test light. One of them should have it. the other is tail/ running light, which should be turned off. carefull not to touch the sides of the socket with the tester, it will short. Think *operation* the game. If you have voltage at the socket, I'll bet the culprit is the sockets ground wire. Slide the metal portion of the socket out of the plastic holder, and you can see how the wire is just sandwhiched against the metal. Clean the wire and the metal on the socket it will touch. Shove it all back toghether and go.

Check the stop lamp fuse before tearing into wiring. If the fuse is good test for voltage at the switch on the pedal. If you get voltage to it, but none out when pedal is pressed it's the switch. ONLY if you have power coming out of the switch, and no power at the bulb socket should you start digging into the harness. And it is normal for a small drop on the Voltgauge from headlights, and turn signals. If it is dimming the lights with it then you have a problem.

Yeah that is for EA81 hatch or Brat. The disc would probably work on a 2wd Ea82. I suppose good deal for anyone that needs a clutch for there EA81. Yet another EA81/82 mix up. Subaru didn't help us during the 80's by reffering to all models as either a DL or GL. Didn't matter if it was an XT, a Wagon, or a Hatch, which would all have different engines(just intakes on XT and Wagon) they were all a DL/GL something. and to make it worse, both engine types are 1.8 liter and then in the 90's yet another 1.8liter with the EJ18 imprezas.

Have you had luck finding a tailshaft? You can use a tailshaft off of any pre 98 4eat. However, the mounts are different and you have to drill the crossmember. Also it amkes a tighter fit in the tunnel and makes a knock when decelerating if the mounts aren't really sturdy. If you preffer, and can wait for shipping, I have an excact replacement from an 89 GL Turbo. Then you could reuse all you're mounts with no problems. I The trans is junk but I could ship you the tailshaft pretty easily. It's light without the steel in it. PM me for details if you want.

They can and do wear. One of the main reasons is people over tightening the pulley or not aligning it properly. And also, the rotor is not submergbed, it is in the block, above the oil pan, and it is possible for the oil to drain back to the pan creating *dry* start conditions. Good quality oil filters prevent this. But point is, the pumps DEFINATELY can wear. Good to check. Most of them are fine.

I just don't agree. Since most Outbacks got the 2.5, if 98% failed, there would be a whole lot less around still. Most of the ones I get, have at least 125k or more. Some as much as 200k. I have customers with EJ25s with 220k and original gaskets. I will grant that the failure rates are higher. But I think the whole thing has been hyped out of proportion. So anyone who doesn't want you're old EJ25, i'll happily take it from you And since it's so worthless, Just pay me a small disposal fee.

Except the engineers aren't making the call on the specs. The big wigs are. The trend to recommending thinner oil is mostly because of EPA milage ratings and CAFE standards. If a manufacturer can make each of it's products even 1 MPG more efficient, it helps them meet CAFE regulations without as much REAL engineering. The thinner oil does help the gas milage, but in the end it's not as good for the engines. *newer Variable Valve timing engines excluded. they need thin oil pumped at high pressure.* Obviuosly in VERY cold places in winter, thinner oil is nessecary. But only in winter and I'd say only 5-30. 5-20 or 0-20 are way to thin. I'll stick to 10-40 for summer and these mild Oregon winters. I'll run 5-30 when I travel to Wisconsin in February.

Drive it a while. And really that behavior doesn't seem all that odd anyway. As long as it stabalizes realtively quickly and isn't trying to stall I think it is OK.

Why is everyone so convinced that needing a little work is *too much to put into* a 2.5? I repair them all the time. They are 90 percent the same motor as the 2.2. The *bullet proof* 2.2 is a myth. I've seen lots of them with Bad head gaskets, and even worse, big pizza slice pieces of valves missing/burned. I would say rebulild you're heads, slap on a new (Current Subaru OEM only) Headgaskets in it and call it a day. You obviuosly like you're Outback. Why get rid of it just to buy another one that will surely cost you more than head job? Doesn't make sense. Fear of 2.5 = Urban Legends and echo chambers. I'm going to have mythbusters test a 2.2 and 2.5 to see which one "blows up" first.LOL

PCV stands for *Positive Crankcase Ventilation* So PCV valve is not a redunancy. Now, the EGR light comes on at 60K miles to tell you to clean the valve. Don't bother. Just look up under the dash, taped to the wiring just left and above of the pedals, there should be 3 white or blue connectors. 2 will be connected, and one dangling, pull apart the 2 and reconnect one of them to the dangling one. This resets the light. Now, for the PCV valve. It is on the rear of the intake, at base of carb. Screws out with a 19mm socket. 5 minutes to replace and a very likely cause of the oily air cleaner box.

The piece in the picture is for the AC Fast idle. That little tube should connect to the vacuum canister that sits up ontop of the passenger strut tower. Here is the Vac diagrahm for 87. It is just a reprint of the 86 diagrahm that they stuck into the 87 FSM without updating. However I've noticed there are a few slight differences not shown in 87 FSM. Like you have a small solenoid mounted to the Front/top/pass side of the aircleaner. Never seen that part identified. But anyhow, hope this helps. Ignore the *ditch this* it was advice to someone with terrible idle issues. If you do ditch it you must *T* the main and slow air bleeds into the aircleaner.

You are thinking EA82. We are talking EJ VS EA81. EJ is slightly wider than an EA81.

Inner and outer bearing seals are different. If you are careful you can reuse them, but for the <20 dollars, it's worth getting them if you can. You'll need a fairly large drift punch. The old bearings get hammered out, the new ones hammered or pressed in. Be careful to only use the punch on the outer race of the new bearings. Don't forget the spacer. When it comes time to pull the axle through, I have a trick. Cut 2, 6 inch pieces of angle iron. Nowe, before you put the hub and outer seal on, you can use the angle iron to *bridge* over the bearings, one on either side of the axle shaft. Now you have a firm shoulder to *pull* the axle through by tightening the axle nut. You will have to stop, back off the nut, and add washers to get the final pull. Once it's though far enough to ge tthe hub on, you can pull it the rest of the way when tightening the axle nut.

Seriously, tell them no. They know they should and will have to pay you more unless you agree to this lowball that they shove at you, and tell you you have to take. Guess what? You don't have to take it. They need you to sign an agreement to the offer or else they can't *close* the case. And They HATE open cases. Becasue open cases turn into lawsuits and cost them more money. They need you to sign off and release them from any further liability. DON"T DO IT! YOU HAVE THE UPPER HAND! THEY KNOW THEY NEED TO GET YOU TO SIGN! DANGLE THAT OVER THEM< THREATEN LAWYERS. BUT ABOVE ALL GET OUT THOSE RECIEPTS AND GET AN AUTOTRADER. Dig up reciepts for tires, clutch, stereo, new seats, any major engine work(not oilchanges) that will show that this wasn't a beater being driven to death, but a fine running commuting machine that you were maintaining and driving regulary. they need to replace it with something that will be the same for you, or at least enough money to buy something close. $130 dollar won't cover the new regisration, let alone the car! Just keep refusing there offer and providing them with ads in you're area for similar transportation. Not the same car nessecarily, but vehichles of the same size, drivable condition, and somewhat age. The age is not nessecarily relavant. The type of car isn't even particiularly relavant. The general condition is. You had a driveable car. You need to replace it with another drivable car. Ask them where the hell they think you are supposed to buy a $130 drivable car? Keep fighting, for our sake. Some of us may need to justify higher values to insurance componies someday, and we need the precident. A few years ago(2006?) my buddies 88 DL got hit parked on the street. Insurance offered him like $450 for it. He said no, adjuster come out and looked at the brand new matched tires($250), the freshly rebuilt motor($700) The newly revinyled upper door panels(alot of time), the heated Legacy seats($150), and the shiny, waxed and buffed red paint that made it look so good(priceless). He held out, and got $1700. more than 3 times the original offer. Be strong and say NO!

uhh... he's talking about an 88 GL-10. Any older gen stuff(EA81) would not be FI (except the turbos)

Autozone is the worst place to get subaru parts. Their whole database is screwed up for them. They tried to tell me that 2.2s and 2.5s use the same spark plug wires. LOL And they intermix EA81 and EA82 stuff all the time. Screw autozone. If you have a knechts around, they actually have a pretty good supply of older subaur stuff.

IF this happens again, No restart after drivng and warming up, I would seriously replace the Coolant temp sensor. or at least remove it and test it through its whole range. whack it a few time while you're testing, often the will read OK til you whack them and then jump all over. I've seen a rash of this lately, maybe fromt eh cold weather, but even a CTS that "tests" good, can still have dead spots or fluctuations. The ECU has a really hard time figuuring out how much fuel to inject. Also, fuel pump running/ not running stuff: The fuel pump doesn't need to run continually before starting. It only comes on to pressurize the system, then will stay off until the injectors need more pressure. So not hearing a contiuos operating pump is not out of the norm.

Vin 4 = N/A 2wd Vin 5 = 2wd turbo and all 4wd Vin 7 = Turbo with Airsuspension Just always tell them 5 if you have 4wd In the case of the clutch it would be the difference between a smaller 2wd clutch and a larger 4wd one.

You nailed the first few things I would think of. Although, it could be that the ECU needs to *relearn* it's parameters. When it surges, does it then drop down and settle? Or does it keep going up and down?