Gloyale

Yes it is. Or that is what it's labeled, it also is the main power feed for the ECU memory. Did you check it? Do you're clock and horn work?

Just an FYI 85 and 86, the XTs are included in the FSM for all EA82. 87+ the XTs got their own FSM.

You can use the tailhousing from any pre-98 4EAT. Just make sure to get the mounts that go with it, the spacing on the bolt holes is different than the original EA82 4EATs

Firstly, the flywheel is most likely right. As it is almost impossible to bolt it on incorrectly using all 8 bolts. The reason you didn;'t see any marks for orientation is that the bolt holes are the marks. They aren't in a perfectly spaced circle. A few are closer and a few are further and it is impossible to install all 8 bolts in any other possition. So what we have here, is simple timing problem. This sentence is the key to the answer: "Since the timing belts and distributor were installed with reference to the flywheel marks, the engine shouldn’t even be running if I installed the flywheel incorrectly. " You seem to know that the 3 marks are for timing belts. However the above sentence indicates that you used the numbered degree marks for setting up the belts. Re-do the belts to be lined up/down with the 3 marks, then reinstall the disty aligned with Zero degree mark.

This is hogwash. You're friend is not familiar with pre-OBDII subaru computers. There is no code for an individual misfire for this engine. Besides, even in an OBDII system you can't guess. You have to read the codes. Here is what to do. Find the 2 green single pole connectors under the hood, near the drviers side strut. Plug them toghether, this puts the car in diagnosis mode. Now remove the lower dash cover under the steering wheel. You will see a box bolted to the bottom of the column, it has a small hole with an LED light inside. Watch this light and count the long and short blinks. Example 3 long flashes followed by 2 short ones = code 32. If you spend some time searching here, you will find tons of info on how to read and interperate codes

Stuff happens. To the best of us. I may have ruined a freshly rebuilt EA82T that I have been waiting to install for almost 2 years. I finally got around to mating the case halves, installing all the parts, bolting on heads, installing new injectors and new turbo. Filled with oil and coolant. Fired it up, it ran for about 1-2 seconds and abruptly stopped. I tried to restart it and it wouldn't crank. Figured it was a weak battery, put it on the charger and went home for the night. Half way home, I realized what happened. Freeze plug in the drivers side head was removed while I was having cracks welded. I NEVER reinstalled the freeze plug! UGGGHHHHHHH!!!!! So 2 gallons of coolant poured into the crankcase, and was then promptly sucked through the PCV into the cylinders. Can you say Hydro-lock??? So I went back up to the shop. Drained the oil, removed the timing belts, Removed the Drivers side Cam carrier. Removed Oil filter. Removed spark plugs and cranked over by hand to eject water. I then put a new filter on, put 3 quarts of oil in it. Put the air ratchet on the oil pump pulley, and pumped the oil through the motor and watched it splooge milkshaky goo out of the oil ports in the head. Once I saw nothing more than oil, I stopped and prayed I had recoated the bearings with oil. All I can hoe is that the Brand new bearings are not destroyed by coolant contanmination. I'm going to install the freezeplug and reassemble everything and hope it runs. It probably will, but who knows about it's longevity now:rolleyes: So you see Connie, you could have made bigger mistakes and done more damage. It's all about perspective.

Correct. However neither fuse 10(turn, backup, etc.) nor fuse 5(hazards) should have any connection to the headlight relay or or fuse. This thread is kinuv getting on my nerves, because everyone is jumping around from circuit to circuit, and confusing issues. If fuse 10 is blowing, focus on that circuit.

Correct. However neither fuse 12(turn, backup, etc.) nor fuse 5(hazards) should have any connection to the headlight relay or or fuse. This thread is kinuv getting on my nerves, because everyone is jumpinmg around from circuit to circuit, and confusing issues. If fuse 10 is blowing, focus on that circuit.

Gasoline is reformulated all the time, espescially before winter. Iv'e seen this code thrown by a random tank of gas. Seems like once the ECU *relearns* for the new formulation it may stay gone. Of course it may be that the sensor is bad. It's super easy to replace.

1. Pull the starter. 2. remove the 3 screws for cover on the rear of solenoid. 3. unbolt the 2 posts that hold the contacts, noting how the insulators are installed for reassembly. 4. Clean the contacts with a wire brush till shiny, it can also help to bend them slightly towards the plunger. Clean the plunger with a wire brush till it's shiny. 5. Reinstall the starter. You should probably clean and retighten both battery cable connections and the ground where the NEG cable bolts to the block. Try this BEFORE messing with the starter. If that is all good, then clean the starter contacts and you're good to go. No need to spend $100 bucks on a Whole new starter.

What????? This doesn't work. Even if you are going to use the tierods to accomplish this, you'd need to turn both of them equally one way or the other, or you'll screw up the toe. 90 Degrees is alot of angle to try to take up with tierods. I would loosen the passenger side rack mount, and remove the driver side mount. Then disconnect the shaft u-joint at the lower end,upper column shaft has groove, mates to u-joint in a way that can't be rotated. It does help to loosen the top though, so the J-joint portion can slide some vertically. now you can lower the rack some and and let the joint slide off. Line up the wheels, and the steering wheels both as straight as you can and raise and reconnect the rack to the lower end of the joint.

Did you connect the green connectors before making the adjustment?

Just a dumb question but, have you checked all the signal bulbs and connectors for a short or blow? At any rate, We should clarify. Hazards are powered by fuse 5 Back up lights, 4wd solenoids, and turns are powered by 10. The one place where both circuits come toghether is at the Flasher unit. Try replacing it and see what happens. And for What it's Worth, the 1/2 connected relay with the 2 black wires and the Black white, and black yellow wires is not part of either circuit as far as I can tell. dome light and parking brake light are on fuse 12

No, they ALL do this. I think it's a backflow of voltage through the ground connection or something, but trust me it's completely normal, happens as well when the Headlight fuses blow. I can't tell you how many times someone brings me a car and say's "I've replaced the bulb 3 times and it's still dim" or " the other mechanic say's it needs rewired" Then I change their fuse, watch their jaws drop, and send them on there way.

I have the same combo in my 89 GL Turbo. I ended up installing a lowered geared 4eat from a legacy. It requires removing the front diff/TQ housing from the EA trans and installing the Legacy 3.9 diff into it, then bolting the EA bell to the Legacy trans. Here's the thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84923&highlight=4eat

The cheapest car is always the one you already own. Espescially for Subaru's Replacing the seals on this car by a shop should not cost more than $600-700. If you use Genuine Subaru parts, the parts should run about $250-300 w/o any tensioners. You could do it yourself for about $150 dollars in parts, if you buy a reseal kit and timing belt kit WITH tensioners off ebay. As far as resale value, Subaru's hold there value quite well, espescially a a west coast rust free one in Newyork. It will be alot easier to argue it's value if it is in good repair. Bottom line is cars cost money to drive. Period. Every car has wear items. Unless you happen across a ridiculous deal, you will surely be spending at least triple the cost of this repair for a new vehicle that is any better. And you will not know it's history, or when it will break down or develope a problem. Fix your car, save money, have peace of mind. *notes, 1. You most likely don't need a rear main, all the leaks front he front run to the back that;s why it all looks to be leaking back there. 2. I wouldn't worry about fire, it's annoying and bad for the air, but unlikely to ignite. Frankly as long as you keep topping off you're oil, you're fine to drive.

1. Fuse or fusible link. Fuel pump, Ign, or ECU. 2. Timing belt- remove end covers to verify 3. MAF leak/unhooked. 4. Main engine harness connector loose connections. Inspect carefully. 5. Cam/Crank angle sensor or Transistor unit. Check for spark.

I second this. Especially for the newer style *pivot* tensioners like is probably on you're 2.5 I make it a standard procedure to take out slack from the belt and then to leverage the tensioner so it's plunger can extend out, making sure it applies good force.

Duh, yeah I think I forgot about the thermo housing (but I knew in the back of my mind that I had figured it wouldn't work before) Okay, time for plan B So my idea, is to somehow mount an EJ bracket onto the front of the passenger side head. Then use an EJ pump, with an EA82 pulley mounted to it. ** As a side note, I recently discovered that early Legacy (90,91) EJ22 PS pumps are virtually identical to EA82 pumps. Resevoirs interchange, only difference is the EA82 pump has larger m10 bolt holes (ej uses M8). By simply enlaging the holes in the EJ bracket, you can use an EA82 pump on an EJ. So you see the possibilities are endless. I love the idea of an EA81, with EA82 SPFI and PS pump, mounted via a modified EJ bracket. Now to solve the AC issue:brow:

Just a quick ? Has anyone who's done the SPFI conversion on an ea81 kept there factory power steering pump? Does it bolt up to the EA82 intake? Also curious but less concerned about the AC compressor? (yes my 84 EA81 has AC)

I JUST ordered opne of those bearings. It was only about $40 at the local dealer. Who are you ordering through?

This is the good idea, and what I wil be doing to my 84 3spd 4wd Sedan. No It's really the only way, the TPS from the SPFI EA82 doesn't output in the range the 4spd TCU will want. Plus you probably didnt' get the flexplate needed to bolt to the larger Torque Converter. Not to mention an Adapter plate. Swap a whole EJ engine and trans from an automatic legacy or imp, that way you get all matched wiring, and no adapter plate needed. And if the 4spd is from and 85 XT, it's not a 4spd. If it really is a 4spd, it's not from an 85. Maybe an 88 or 89.

If one of the turn signal wires is hooked up to it and the other is not, that will make *stop* lamp light for sure.

One of the bulb sockets has corrosion on the ground side. Not enough to make the lamp not work, but any imbalance will cause it too light. The other possibility is that someone wired in a trailer wiring adapter that combines brake and turn lamps, and the box is not functioning properly anymore.

Is the carpet wet at all on the passenger side? The power window lead runs under the carpet on the passenger side, right under were feet would step. The wire has one of the notorious brass band clamp *junctions* were the wire splits to provide power to each window. It's a real common corrosion point, and will short to ground on the floor pan if there is any moisture in the carpet.