Gloyale

If the B p[illar is touched, the cost of repair is going to be way over $130 dollars. That is the point. The repairs would be exp[ensive and the insurance company is saying the car is only worth $130 dollars. Tell thenm Bullcrap. Cost of replacing it with a working, driveable car is going to be WAY more than $130. They are lowballing you. Don't accept it. they will offer you more if you hold out.

Check all the tubes from the airbox to the intake. Look for loose clamps, leaks around the small tubes that enter the large main tube into the turbo. Do you get a check engine light at all? Sounds like MAF issues.

First off. that pulley is the AC tensioner. Remove that belt for now. It has nothing to do with the timing belt or water pump. Leave the other belt on the alternator ands PS pump. Does it overheat? Are you haveing to add coolant to the radiator? Are there any bubbles in the coolant? If the answer is *no* to all those questions then you don't have a headgasket issue. I'll bet what you do have is both a leaking waterpump, and a leaking oil seal at a Cam, Crank or behind oil pump. Have you're timing belt done, with new seals and probably a new water pump while at it. $500-750 MAX. You could do it all yourself for about $250 in parts. What ever you do, don't take it back to whoever told you that was the water pump belt, they obviously don't have a clue about Subys Also, inspect you're heater core hoses, the leaking at the rear of the motor could be one of those hoses leaking too.

The last thing you should do immediately after school is heap on another debt/payment. And no offense, but finding a high paying job in you're field striaght out of college doesn't really happen. Pay you're student loans off first. You'll basically throw away a decent car just to spend 50K(by the time you pay the loan interest) on basically a newer version of the same car? Plus thousands more every year for the full coverage insurance you will have to have for said brand new car. You're not going to school for economics are you? If you don't have money now for a brand new car, you aren't going to have it in six months. Reality check. Now get smart, and start saving money to fix the wonderful car you already have. It will pay off more in the long run.

Pull the egr solenoid from the old motor and plug it into the harness of the new motor. Either replace the knock sensor, or pehaps try this trick. Relocate the knock sensor to the bolt hole on the top of the bellhousing. I had a 96 OB that was throwing that code all the time, sensor itself tested fine. Relocatted it to the top of the bellhousing, a bit further fromt eh crank, and no more code. The motor runs fine, and I don't hear any signs of knocking.

Why would you take it out to set timing? you mean timing belt? There is no reason to pull hte engine for a timing belt.

This is not true. ALL EA82 axles are the same length. There are a total of 4 variations of shaft diameter and joint size, but they are all the same length. The only thing that makes an EA82 axle not interchangable with any other EA82 axle is the spline count on the inboard joint, where it mates to the trans. Either 23(all non-turbo, 3at turbo) or 25(MT turbo, and 4EAT turbo)

The majority of the lines are metal. The rubber sections are the connections from the tank to pump, pump to metal line that runs through the body, and from the firewall to the manifold. Replace all that hose with high pressure,FI rated hose. Don't let GD get you down. True, the EA82T is a finicky hellcat with a heart of lye, but pretty easy to learn on and fairly relaiable if you treat them good and keep them cool.

Not with exhaust pressure blowing it out. Honestly, a leak right at the OS sensor is VERY likely to cause a CEL.

Spend the money now, and recover it on the trade-in. If you don't you will have a worthless pile, that cost you MORE money when you consider the loss of any trade in value (which I would estimate to be at least 2-3k$) Look, if you come here for advice, but then are set on ignoring it and doing what you decided already, you're really wasting our time, And you're money. Not to mention, every new car consumes finite world resources. It is just generally agravating to my worldview to see people be wasteful.

wpord

I wouldn't worry about the o-ring if there are no signs of leaks. If you want to get teh pulley off to replace the crank seal, there is a trick for stubborn ones. Buy a M8 (metric 8MM) tap, a tap handle to fit it, and some cutting oil. Also buy a steering wheel puller if you don't have one. The pulley has 2 small holes in it, they are the perfect size to tap with the M8 threads. I believe this is what the holes are provided for, but have never read any reference to them in any literature. Anyhow, yeah, tap the holes, run in some bolts and use the steering wheel type puller.

Then you don't really want an answer, you want someone to agree with the descision you already made. Honestly it seems stupid to me to let a known fixable problem turn into a destroyed worthless engine, and entire car from what it sounds like. What a waste

I could tell you it's not the head gasket, but it is. Sorry. There is a slight possibility that the t-stat you got sucks, replace it with a genuine subaru one. I mean it. Also you're digidash is likely not accurate, when it indicates hot, are there other signs of overheating? Steam? boiling over? loss of power? These are things to explore but, you probably have a bad headgasket.

I sure hope you also swapped the harness and ECU as well. Assuming you did, are you sure it is correct? The supply and return lines are easy to confuse. Although, you will have to swap in the FI fuel pump before that will matter.

Not the Mallory. It's either a Vac advance single(4wd) or a Vac advance Dual (2wd, feedback carb,) I paid them $40 to have a single unit rebuilt and shipped to me. Call them, and I'll bet they'd say that would cover it.

Nice, rear sway bar. Check out the sticker on the Rear diff, might be Limited Slip.

+1 for Philbin, and I don't mean Regis. They have fast turnaround and did a great job with the last one I sent them. You can get away with removing the advance unit to mail off to them, and still leaving the car driveable. Set the base timing to around 15-20 degrees, it will help with drivability until the rebuilt advance unit comes back.

85-87 Turbo cars with automatic had the 3spd. Some of the later 88 and 89 (XT and some GL's) also used that 3spd, while the *fulltime* 4spd autos went into most Auto turbos. Here is the trouble. 3spd auto trans = 23 spline axle 4spd auto trans = 25 spline axle All turbo cars with Manual Trans = 25 spline axle. So the solution around the parts stores screwed up listings is to just always order the axle for a Manual trans Turbo car.

It can be an indicator, bit I wouldn't call crud in the tank "telltale" I've seen plenty of Soobs with gunky overflows that DID NOT have blown Headgasekts. It's possible you are seeing water swelled and disolved coating from the headgasekt flaking off. The first EJ motors used a HG design with coating over the whole surface. The exposed "ring" around each cylinder on the block side eventually swells and peels off. The resulting mass of gooey, partially disovled graphite flows through the system. Often contributing to a failed HG, not the result of. The newer HG design only has coating on the block side where the block actually makes contact. Clean out the crap, flush the coolant, check for any and all leaking hoses. Look for leaks at the crossoverpipe. Clean your radiator cap. Keep her full of coolant and watch your temp gauge. You'll be fine.

Junkyard part FTW!

It can. You won't have any issues with overheating for a while, then one day when the coolant reaches a critically low level, you'll overheat. Worst cases, there is so much airspace trapped in the motor that the temp gauge reads cold, since no water is touching it, meanwhile the motor is cookin. Give it a good burp and fill, check or replace the rad cap, then watch carefully for bubbles in the overflow, or any loss of coolant over time.

how much for you're SPFI swap pieces? manifold, harness, disty, MAF, and ECU? I wouldn't mind getting that new Y pipe too. Shoot me a PM if you are getting rid of that stuff.

I disagree. The fact that the heat goes awy when the car is pointed downhill is a clear sign of an air pocket developing in the cooling system. This is ussually from a bad HG, but can happen from other leaks or a bad Radiator Cap.

Actually, there are probably more 4eats in the world than there are EA 5spds. You're forgetting that the tailsection from almost any 4eat, at least pre-98, will fit. There where some minor changes made to the rear mount, IIRC, drill a few new holes in the crossmember and it works. Transmission doesn't even have to be pulled from car. I have a 93 Legacy 4EAT in my 89 GL turbo:grin: