Gloyale

What does this mean? If you remove the solenoid, there isn't any way the starter COULD operate. Other than the soleenoid built into the starter, there isn't any other solenoid or relay. Sounds like you have a ig. switch problem. Install either a relay or a pushbutton. Search "pushbutton"

The hole tappers slightly, so the pin can really only be driven out, from one side. One of the holes for the pin should have a bevel. The other hole is not or should not be beveled. (i'ver seen bevels on both sides of after market axles) The bevel is the one that the pin should be inserted from during installation. So....You want to pound it out from the unbevelded side. If you are driving it into the beveled side it is just getting tighter and won't come out.

Well, both actually. It is a heat exchanger. Like the trans cooler in an automatic cars radiator, or a water to air intercooler. The coolant enters hollow tubes (like radiator core) in the baffled section though one side tube and returns to the engine via the other. The oil flows through the center going into and out of the filter, flowing over the baffles. The Oil and Coolant don't occupy the same chambers and should not mix.

Just disconnect the trans cooler hose from the radiator and connect a tube to it to drain into a pan. Start the car and watch t fluid come out. AS SOON as it stops or even starts to be sputtery, turn off the car. Reconnect everything and refill. This will empty about 80 percent of you're fluid. Most of what's in the TC.

Yeah, it isn't nessecary to remove the motor, but he will have to unbolt the pass. side enging mount and jack up that side to drop the crossover/uppipe out.

That looks like the cooler that comes installed on Phase II 2.5 engines in Forresters and maybe others. It has baffles in it that the oil flows through. Seems restrictive to me, I took it off a 2.5 we are building. That had more to do with contamination suspicion because the main bearings were shredded in the block. Wouldn't want to rebuild it, then flush old burnt bearings fragments through it.

You pretty much gotta take out the turbo. And as mentioned, Hoses. there is an oil line bolted to the rear of the head, low in the corner.(hard line, banjo bolt style. Don't lose the 2 copper crush washers) A larger oil return tube beneath the turbo.(5/16 or 3/4 trans cooler hose works well. Diesel Truck repair shop would stock) And also a coolant return hose (1/2 inch heater hose) that snakes under said plate then clamps to a pipe that bolts to the underside of the head. There is a small 10mm bolt holdin that pipe to the head as well, near the exhaust port. Coolant supply hose on the top is obvious. BTW, don't unbolt the pipes on the turbo, undo the clamps instead.

Yeah, I think you and others have it backwards. A viscous coupler ALWAYS has a certain amount of *bind* in it's clutches, but not so much that a turn can't overcome it. But say in a muddy situation, the *stick* between the 2 sides helps get BOTH wheels spinning equally through the slop. As differences in wheel speed increase, heat causes even more binding, but there was some binding from the start. In contrast, the clutch type truely requires some extra spin on one side to generate side force to clamp the plates. When they work properly, the may have a slight advantage for crawling because once they do lock, it's a real lock, it's notas gradual. I'd take a VLSD for mud or snow in a long term driver. Clutch for a purist, trailer to the rocks crawler that doesn't see much highway.

Have you checked that it is sparking in proper time? Is this the type that has the screw that holds the rotor in place? If so is the screw there? Have you tried a different caqp and rotor? I know you tried multiole distys, but did you try different caps and rotors? I worked on a plymouth voyavger the other day that WOULD NOT start, until I replaced the Cap and Rotor.

Do they check the timing when they test? How about the gasoline in it? If not, you could try retartding it slightly, running a cooler cylinder temp. Also could try a gallon of xylene mixed with a few gallons of premium. Also, would it be possible to enlarge the EGR passages in the Intake? It may be that the passages designed in the 80's weren't designed with enough flow to meet the newer more stringent requirements.

This isn't true. The switch connects continuity to ground. The ECU can read this continuity with as little as a few millivolts (like an ohmmeter) Those few millivotls won't be observable on a standard multimeter. Many of the ECU's signals are relayed this way, such as self diagnosis connector, and the FWD fuse for the TCU.

I completely disagree. Their only real weakness is perhaps very slow speed rock crawking. Otherwise the VLSD works fabulous for mud, snow, ice, hillclimbs etc. To my mind way more reliable than clutch type. No real wear items. And when they wear, they ussually get tighter, not looser.

I don't see any pics:confused: Aren't there 2 tiny bolts at the bottom edge of those heads?

Dude you're monitor needs adjusted or you are blind. The frigin stub and is RIGHT THERE! Unless you are telling us that you've actually been to see his vehichle physically and it is different than the photo. I don't think that's the case.

At that point then I being to suspect the bracket with heartless.

He is my list: Cam and Crank seals for sure. Waterpump for sure if next timing belt interval will be at more than 200k. Otherwise it could stay, if this is say the first belt replacement. Tensioner only if defect noted. Pulleys only if defect noted. It's worth looking to see if any oil is weeping from behind the oil pump, and replacing the o-ring and tightening the backing plate if any leakage noted. If you got money to spend, it would be ideal to do all of the above.

That's heat shield for sure. Pinging wouldn't happen under deceleration, or at light throttle, it'd be during heavy throttle and load.

Pull the front diff and examine it and then tell me that. ANd in an Automatic, there is more room in the case, and no gears other thant the diff. On a manual, the whole case is connectoed, and the clip could end up anywhere in the gears, blocking a shift collar or any other thing in there.

Needing to have a a headgasket replaced is not *Self Destructing* I repair them all the time and send people driving down the road in them. It is really too bad you didn't try an independant suby shop. They probably would have fixed this clutch switch problem. Oh well.

No it is also monitored by the ECU to know when to inject gas for idle. If the clutch is out and the car is in gear moving it will not inject gas at closed throttle.

The stub is visible in the first photo. As far as foriegn metal objects in the transmission, I would get sued for leaving crap in there. Espescially when it would be easy to pull the plug and retrive it with a magnet. You can run that risk on you're own car but I strongly disagree that "It's Fine to leave loose metal in you're transmission" It's really bad advice to give out.

Oh boy. Firstly, You're heater is like an extra radiator. By turniong it off, you DECREASED you're cooling capacity. You are supposed to turn it ON when you start to overheat. IS there still any coolant in the radiator? My guess is not. You possibly overheated from a bad headgasket. YOu won't be able to se it exteranlly. Fill up the radiator, drive it till warm, then watch the fluid level in the radiator overflow bottle. If you see bubble coming up into the bottle, you have a blown headgasket.

I do see his stub, it's there. ANd if one were to loose the circlip from an axle stub in the trans, it would certainly not be good. It wouldn't be* int he botrtom of the pan* It'd be in the front diff case, and there isn't much clearance in there. At any rate I don't think that is his issue.

More than likely, one of the small pcv hoses that hook into the intake tube. Either that or the tube itself is loose or cracked. If the MAF was *bad* it would throw a CEL for the momentary cranking and running it wil do.(you said it will run for a second or 2 with the MAF plugged in) The way you say it just died makes me think a hose popped off. Check the intake tube for leaks. And most code scanners can be used with the key in the on position. Good ones can scope it's output will running.

Turn the crank 90 degrees clockwise from 0 TDC and you will see the 3 little timing marks.