Gloyale

He should avoid those trannies. in addition to the spline count difference, they have a *short* low range (1.19 vs. 1.59) and are 3.7 final gearing. To use one of these, he'd need turbo axles, and a 3.7 rear end.

most 4wd 85-89 had dual range.

The lighter, smaller diameter aftermarket pulleys have 3 big advantages. 1. If you are running high RPMS on a regular basis, you're alternator bearings are taking a high load. Smaller pulley, slightly slows the speed the alt rotates relative to engine RPMs. 2. Lightening the pulley is like lightening hte flywheel, or removing the clutch fan on older cars. You reduce the amount of power needed to accelerate the rotating parts= slight power gain. 3. Subaru Crank pulleys suck. They have that damn rubber bushing in them that likes to unglue and let the outer part slip around the center, or they just grenade entirely. A solid billet aluminum pulley cannot do this. It's the biggest reason to go aftermarket in my mind.

If you have the 2.2, regular NGK plugs will be fine. about 3$ a piece If you have the 2.5, use the NGK platinums about $12 a piece

You WILL have problems with these plugs. Garaunteed NEVER use Champion or Autolite in a Subaru

Hmm, in my mind, none of the Legacies are *squarish* It isn't possible you got the bolts from a Loyale or GL is it?

Sorry, but maybe you didn't quite understand how the clips go on. Because EVERY Subaru TO bearing can be mounted either way. I have seen one Aftermarket TO that had a tab on one side that interfered with the Fork if mounted one way. But all the OEM bearings I've used can be mounted either way. ALL of them have slightly offcenter/tilted outer bearing case relative to the hole in the center that it slides on. And depending on which way you put it on, there IS a difference in the angle of the TO to the pressure plate depending on wether you put the eccentric part up or down.

Isn't it cool to have a car that is actually appreciating in value? These cars are truely becoming rare and classic and starting to be recognized as such.

That was my though. Split the case, replace the synchros and the shaft bearings. I did this recently in an outback and man oh man the shifting is WAY better. The synchros from any old regular 4wd EA 5 spd box should work. If not, then the stuff from an EJ box will work. But IIRC, they are ALL the same with regards to the gears.

Only 2wd *feedback* carb equiped models had 2 vac ports. The first is a sub advnce controlled via solenoid by the ECU. The second is a pure engine vacuum advance. Since only the 2wds had that disty, how could you change that to a 2wd disty?

You should change the title of this post to *Hitachi DISTRIBUTOR question* Many models got hitachi carbs but denso distys. With that said, I suppose you could use lighter springs and/or heavier weights for a quicker advance. I doubt you'll find anything made for this purpose. Probably have to weld some nuts to the weights. Springs from another type of disty could very well work too. As far as the vacuum advance, I don't know of any way to adjust that.

Line up the the marks on the pulley to excactly straight up and down. Don't go by the notches on the plastic covers, they distort form heat and will be off slighlty. It does sound like you are a tooth off on the drivers side belt. That throws off you're ignition timing as well.

The throttle stopper is tuned and set to the excact airflow of the engine it was originlly installed on. Only real problem with adjusting it is that you can end up with you're throttle plate wedging closed, and then bending to release. Otherwise if it's open too far you;ll just get a high idle, and the TPS will be off unless you adjust it. Most FI systems, if they do have an idle adjustment, use an air passage type adjustment, rather than a traditional *throttle adjusment*

You should be able to pull off the cap and rotor. Then pull of the gold colored plate under the rotor. That will expose the CAS. Get some Canned air or at least some MAF cleaner to spray it off. But by all means, determine that wether or not you are getting voltage to the coil, and spark first.

You can adjust the idle. Just not using the throttle stopper screw. There is an actual idle adjustment screw. There is a flathead screw located on the top/almost center of the Throttle body. Recessed down in a hole. IIRC turning it CounterClockwise will raise the idle. Check page 3 of section 2-7 *Fuel Injection* in the FSM for a diagrham There is also a fast idle adjusment (to raise or lower cold/ AC idle) it is a similar screw, smaller, and on the under side of the throttle body, near the Fast Idle Solenoid.

88 GL =Fuel injected= Crank Angle Sensor type Distributor= No pickup coil in the disty. The CAS is a possible suspect though. I think we need to establish that he has no spark first.

You need to put a screwdriver or some other metal piece inside the wire boot. You need to actually get a metal to metal gap that is 2 mm, not just the rubber end of the wire.

O.K. Now can anybody answer which direction the Throw out bearing should be oriented? If you look closely at one, you'll see that the bearing is slighly eccentric to the shaft opening. So the bearing is actually 1 or 2 degrees off of being perpendicular to the shaft. Can't figure out why? I always just note how the old one came out and put the new one in the same way. But I've found them both ways, so I'm not sure. Does it matter? It must or they wouldn't ALL be that way, but they are??? But I've never found ANYTHING in any literature describing why or which way it should go. Anybody got an answer???

I completely disagree with this statement. My own experience and countless stories here on the board show that faulty connections often lie at the heart of CELs coming on for a sensor. ESPESCIALLY the crank sensor. In fact simply tapping the key to *start* quickly, but not long enough for the engine to fire, will throw *ghost* codes for Crank, Cam, starter, or all 3. I ussually ignore those codes entirely until EVERYTHING else has been checked.

Curious as to why the head gaskets were replaced to begin with? That isn't normal maintenance. Was it overheating before? Was it a warranty repair? ussualy, the dealer will only replace whichever side was bad, not both? Is it possible you meant Valve cover gaskets? If so, it may be that you have a headgasket issue.

It is a Mechanism moving, and it is within the dashboard. It is the relay you are hearing *engage* it is physically a heavy duty switch being snapped closed when you turn the key on. It IS something with travel physically moving. That is what relays do. Don't take offense, but you aren't listening to what we are telling you. It is the Fuel pump relay that makes the *engaging* sound. The accompanying buzz is the fuel pump. If you want to confirm, remove the lower dash panel. Next unbolt the 3 bolts holding the ECU and let it hang. Mounted to the column, above the ECU are 2 relays. The brown one with 6 wires is the Ignition relay. The other is the Fuel pump relay. Grab the fuel pump relay and then turn the key on. You'll feel the *click* when it happens in the relay. With you're head up in the dashboard, you should also be able to tell that the buzzing is coming from somewhere else(rear of car from Fuel Pump) Next, disconnect the fuel pump relay and try the same thing. You'll get no buzzing and no click.

Check fuse 11 too.

I've always liked the idea of running turbo heads on an NA block with a Carb. No turbo, but Dual port intake and 9.5:1 comprssion with a big Webber or even a holley would be ba-dass I think Triker bob has this setup on his trike.

Check out the similar threads at the bottom of this page.

It's not that it isn't real techhnology. It's just that it doesn't really work in the real world. It takes more energy to electrolyze the water and move the added weight of the system than you get in return from the Hydrogen. You'll get minimal gains if any. Espescially with an FI engine. The O2 sensor readings will cause the ECU to go nuts trying to figure out a mixture. Go ahead. But I'll bet you can buy alot of gas for the money and time you'll spend on this project. If anything, build a browns gas machine in you're garage that runs on 120v(or 240v) and keep just a storage tank in the car. Trying to make the generator unit mobile and run off 12vs is the real reason you end up with a losing equation.