Gloyale

The rear radius rod has an adjuster bolt/plate setup. Rear suspension alignment is done by this radius rod adjuster. It is on the inboard bolt in the crossmember, so you shouldn't need to touch it to remove the hub. The strut mount has no adjustment for the rear. Just 2 regular bolts.

Remove the bumper and you have access to the nuts through the rear of the frame rail.(where the bumper mounts go in.) Granted it's long access , and you'll need some long wrenches to hold the nuts you will need to place in there. Some of the kits I 've seen have long flat bars welded to the nuts, so that they can be inserted and not spin while tightening the bolt.

If you're plugs have screw on tips......... Remove those Bosch pieces of crap and put some proper NGKs in there

Sounds about right. I've seen lot's of them with vavles out, and they ussually go an inch to an inch and a half.

Either a loose and shifting rear caliper....... Or a wheel bearing. I don't think it's related to you're low tire

Since this is a Subaru board, I was speaking specifically of Subaru. Of course GMs and Fords had OBD II earlier, they are the ones that forced that crap on the rest of the worlds manufacturers. Subaru(and other Japanese and european companies) had already been leading Computerized Engine Management design for years. Subaru's pre-OBDII stuff is far more effective at helping the tech actually find a problem. OBD-II reeks of GM's rediculous tendancy towards redundancy, and identifying the symptom, not the culprit. That is why the Big Three (2, Chrysler is a joke now) had to get OBDII mandated. They had to level the playing feild. Unfortunately, by lowering it.

Looks like you were right, Tom, his Legacy axles ARE shorter.

Espescialy for parents! I'm almost 31, and my Mom still tries to micro-manage my work on her 96 Outback. Even though she is the most clueless person in the world about mechanics. To quote The Fresh Prince, "parent's just don't understand"...........ever

DOh!!! I think you are right. The exploded diagrahm of the pump in the next section ENGINE LUBRICATION, lists the torque for the sender as the same 16-20 ft/lbs. Damn. Anyway, I just get em snug but by all means don't strip them.

95 = pre-OBD-II

It is in the FSM!!! Section 2-3 Engine, page 39(87 FSM). Right after the page with the tightening sequence for the head bolts. Below the diagrahm that shows the "fluid packing" location for the pump. It's in a BOLD type highlighted by 2 heavy black lines top and bottom. Spec is listed 16-20 ft/lbs. I would be scared of stripping them trying to get to 20 ft/lbs. I still say "snug plus a hair".

I'll add that it doesn't take much torque for them or the water pump bolts. They are small (IIRC M6 x 1.00), and the bolt holes are easily striped if you reef on them. It really helps to clean the threads with a tap and blue( NOT RED) locktite the bolts. I'd say 13-15 ft lbs is a good value, but most torque wrenches have a hard time with low valvues like that. Like Gary, I ussually go to just snug, and then a red hair further. GD is right that an In/lb torque wrench would be ideal.

I'll add that it doesn't take much torque for them or the water pump bolts. They are small (IIRC M6 x 1.00), and the bolt holes are easily striped if you reef on them. I'd say 13-15 ft lbs, but most torque wrenches have a hard time with low valvues like that. Like Gary, I ussually go to just snug, and then a red hair further. GD is right that an In/lb torque wrench would be ideal.

Don't use them on Automatic equiped cars. Every time I've used Cardone or EMPI they cause a bad vibration when stopped in drive. You're WAY better off rebooting the Factory Subaru axles.

After seemingly advocating for not ever needing the *quill* sleeve, I got a clutch job to do where it WILL be required. The quill is completely boogered. It's worth noting that the car has 343,000 miles on it. Never say never eh?? Amazingly, the car runs very strong, and even with the original plug wires from 1990 on them. (Yazaki, marked "1990") Oh yeah, we dropped the trans to do this job (mostly because the ram on my engine hoist decided to crap out last night :sad: )

Sorry to correct you, but......... Imps and Forresters both share the same chassis components as the 90-99 Legacies. I was just under a 2004 Forrester yesterday and all the suspension mountings, trans mountings, crossmembers, and strut mounts are identical to the 90 Legacy I just lifted. The newer unibody is more reinforced, but all the mounting points are the same. Lengths are different, and there are some minor variations, but components from any one can be swapped to the other. All the subframe mounting points are shared common between Legacies, Forrester, and Imprezas. Only difference is overall length and weight.

It strange that you are having such problems with Negative Camber. Ussually EA82s are notorious for problems with positive Camber. Like this \ / Espscially the 4wd ones.

That's a great idea with the copper tube. For the Turbo oil return line, use large diameter trans cooler line, get some from a Big Rig shop if you have too. Coolant hose(what you typically find in that diameter) will seep oil quickly. I think you are over estimateing the cash scrap value of the CAT. Also, it isn't state emmisions that mandate the Catalytic Converter. It's still a violation of Federal law to remove you're catalytic converter.

I mean they are a washer that is bent slightly like a taco. The reason this works is because the VC bolts have a shoulder that bottoms out at a certain point, so you can't turn it any tighter. Well over time, the rubber shrinks and there is no way to tighten it. The spring washer puts a bit of force against the rubber at all times so it essentially *self tightens* as the rubber shrinks.

The first one I made just with a tape and eyeball. Now that it is welded, I am going to make a jig with fixed points that it bolts into. Then sleeve and weld the second bolted into said jig so they will have to be identical.

It's excactly the same as the Pushbutton S/R trans 2wd/4wd solenoids. Same Solenoids, same type of switching, same vacuum actuator cable(?) Parts are as follows: 2 solenoids, supplied with vacuum. (solenoids for 2wd/4wd S/R are the same) A double sided vacuum diaphraghm that Pushes/Pulls a cable Cable connected to a lever on the side of the trans that slides the lock collar inside the trans. Switch is a Single pole, Double Throw, no *off* type. I've always thought it would be cool to use a S/R pushbutton shifter as the DiffLock button on a Fulltime trans.

Yes, that is the *best* option and you WILL be happy if you do it. No offense, but perhaps you didn't do the best job or use the best parts??? Un-reinforced Cam case o-rings? Cheap Cam end seals? Wrong sealant for cam case? I've put 25k on my GL Turbo Wagon since i slapped the motor toghether, and it isn't leaking at all. Just starting to get some "seepage" around the lower par of the valve covers, but not drips and certainly no oil stains on my driveway. I may try a trick and ol'timer turned me onto, using a bent *spring* washer between the bolt head and the rubber grommet for the valve cover bolts. He say's it prevents ALOT of leakage issues for EA82s.

There are at least 3 sources of adapter plates currently avavilable. I don't really have an interest in it. We are going to be further building a motor up for more power and there is no way I'm running it through a beat a** old 20+ year old GL trans. And have to drive in 2wd on pavement? No thanks. I could try to find a RX *fulltime* tranny, but again, not really what I want to do. We have wheeled PLENTY with a few Legacies not even as lifted as this, but with way bigger tires, and only feel a tad more horsepower is nessecary. And we got the Ponies coming. If it does get a D/R, it will be a real EJ D/R imported from Down Under

So I finally got some pics of the height before and after. Here is before And the after: Oh yeah and the donor engine car we just picked up for a new engine.

I can't say it's a bad idea to use OE, but I don't think it is you're problem here. Have you tested you're fuel pressure?? Perhaps you're regulator has failed and you are getting full pump pressure to the injectors? Shot in the dark:rolleyes: